I took out my Pertronix kit on the boat and went back to points. Petronix has at least two failure modes. One and the best is it quits working. The other is much worse, it jumps timing by some (I think but am not certain) multiple of 360 degrees divided by the number of cylinders. Having had this failure, it usually is preceded by a backfire that does not result in an immediate problem but presents when trying to restart, but...sometimes it stops the engine, not at the dock, not in quiet water,not...you get the idea. I have always been able to coax a little more out of a set of points, swap a coil etc. but these conversions are neither fully digital nor analog they exist in that land of pi€€meoff and a "You can trust ME!" At this time, for the last 5 years I have one distributor with points and the second engine has an electronic distributor. Since reverting there have been no problems. The reason one is electronic?, the original suffered internal organ failure.

Maybe I just been lucky, but have not had any problems. I do keep spare set of points just in case. I always feel if I have them I won't need them. I don't have problem with points, just felt engine started faster and had a little more power with the Pertronix. When I installed them on my 140 4 cylinder boat engine I picked up a good 100 rpm wide open and It started much quicker. I also carry a spare HEI distributer in the Regal that gives me a spare coil, pick up, module, rotor, and cap. with the hope I don't need them.

My 1rst vehicle was a 1500 cc 1966 VW transporter. That was when the speed limit was 55. If I couldn't top the hill at 55 south of Dayton I knew it was time to adjust valves and/or points.

I am OK with points most of the time. I like being able to static time the points break. (I use to pull the wire from the oil pressure sender and the distributor and connect them. By looking through the back window I could use the oil pressure light to set the timing!)

(Doorman, you also have a spare distributor gear, the only part I've had to wait to get on the side of the road!)

My 71 has both advance and retard on the vacuum dashpot, as well as the centrifugal advance. I believe the retard was used for "EPA idle" and has already been retired. The module seems to restrict the full vacuum advance and will be corrected or removed.

I am hoping to get that engine out later this week.

quote:

My 71 has both advance and retard on the vacuum dashpot, as well as the centrifugal advance. I believe the retard was used for "EPA idle" and has already been retired. The module seems to restrict the full vacuum advance and will be corrected or removed.

:

In the old days a 009 distributer would be the fix.

Today was the annual Larry's Offroad National Drag Races, Car & Bus show. I wish I had taken photos of some of the busses. Real nice ones. Venders with all kinds of VW hot rod parts. Heads, cranks, carbs. etc. It was a hot day to wall around, but was impressive to see how quick they can make them peoples car go.

The Bosch 009 is getting hard to find but they make nice aftermarket ones now.

Go to-- thesamba.com (all vw site that was originally for buses). and search vacuum advance. A centrifugal advance only distributor is the worst thing you can do to a VW engine in an auto application. There is much discussion there about advance devices and also as to which is the best electronic point replacement ( it is not pertronics) Some are more work throwing away than replacing points and some are very very good. john

AND as to the aftermarket ones (distributors) stay away from all china made ones (including Pertronics) "they" make them but not to last and frequently not to work at all. been there done that.

It was boring here on the site so I decided to take some more pictures. My new Barth trans won't be here till Wed so I played with the VW!

Almost ready, rear mount is out, resting on jacks, only four bolts and a gas line left to disconnect.



A few minutes later:



Now we're getting somewhere, good old Boxer motor:





Done for today. Just need to roll in the garage!


The distributor appears to be OEM Bosch with a Pertronics module and vacuum advance/retard dashpot.

All you hotrod guys can send me all those cool parts you were suggesting now!

Hey Steve, I will take that motor too if you are going to replace it. Just kidding. Mine is a lime green Baja bug 1969 vintage.

I am going to try to make Allegan GTG, all depends on what happens with daughter.

Finally getting back to this project. I recently rebuilt the front seats. Passenger side was easy, new foam and cover, looks like new. Driver side more work, back frame was cracked and 5 seat springs were broken. Repaired that, then foam and covering too. Pics soon.

Got the flywheel off the engine, mounted on the engine stand. After some more cleaning I will pull the heads for valve work and final cleanup.

I still think it is a shame you didn't want to restore it as a Campmobile, which I think it was, rather than a german Westphalia conversion. I cannot read the black tag that was affixed to the cabinetry, near the floor.
The all-white 1970 I bought new was a fixed-roof Campmobile. A genuine Westy was rather scarce even then and, with pop-top quite a bit more expensive. I traded in my 1969 AMX for the $3,695 VW at Engle VW, Kalamazoo.

It was originally a Westfalia weekender, according to the "data tag" Interior was somewhat worn and used too much weight and space for my purposes. I can't believe what these things are worth to some people!

quote:

Originally posted by Steve VW:
It was originally a Westfalia weekender, according to the "data tag" Interior was somewhat worn and used too much weight and space for my purposes. I can't believe what these things are worth to some people!

quote:

Originally posted by Mogan David:
I still think it is a shame you didn't want to restore it as a Campmobile, which I think it was, rather than a german Westphalia conversion. I cannot read the black tag that was affixed to the cabinetry, near the floor.
The all-white 1970 I bought new was a fixed-roof Campmobile. A genuine Westy was rather scarce even then and, with pop-top quite a bit more expensive. I traded in my 1969 AMX for the $3,695 VW at Engle VW, Kalamazoo.

---

Here is a Westfalia, that was $65000. Sure makes all feel good about our Barth Coaches and campers.

I got back to the VW project. As usual, 2 steps forward, 1 step back…

Engine on stand. To prevent contamination from getting into the cases, I decided to clean and paint the block before pulling the heads.



I pulled off the heads without any problems.



Now for the turd fairy.
As soon as I pulled the heads off I inspected them. In addition to cracked fins (minor) from previous poor workmanship, I find a crack between valve seats on 3 of 4 cylinders. One also had a small crack from valve seat to spark plug hole. These heads must have been HOT. Both are junk.



I found some new heads on eBay and away we go. They will be here in a few days. I pulled the cylinders and pistons, no further surprises. The rod bearings are .010 undersize and will be replaced with same. The cam and followers appear to be in good condition, so I will stop the teardown here.



Now I can replace rod bearings, pistons, rings, and cylinders. When the heads arrive I will be ready.