Surge brakes would be excellent. I am looking into brake systems but they are all very expensive.
to be continued...

Put an axle on the tow bar with the surge brakes. Disconnect the toad no interference. You would need to pre-load the tow bar to keep from lifting the steer axle and making it wander. Torsion bars from the brake axle to the toad connection? I think there is a name for this type of config, just can't think of the name...

Maybe some type off air over hydraulic that parallel the rear brake system. Just unhook air and go. I would think that rear brakes would be as much as one would need.

Toad brakes--If you have an air-over hydraulic system you can use a relatively simple air brake actuator on the towed car. Got one with my breakaway that the previous owner used for a pickup. it is commercial but easily duplicated. not any need to worry about air lost when decoupling.

I had nothing better to do yesterday, so I decided to drive around Lake Michigan. (I drove the Prius, but it is VW related)

I have been running the VW as a daily driver. Steering is less tight and brakes are better. Rebuilt the other side rear and new cylinder. It becomes apparent the transmission is getting worn. Differential whine is pretty loud and 1st and 2nd synchros are worn. I had decided to rebuild or replace if possible before failure.

The VW Ebay karma runs good. In the process of researching parts, used and rebuilt trans options, I found a used 1971 trans for sale in Milwaukee. Asking $200, includes brand new clutch, 61,000 miles. Came out of a 71 that had a fatal engine fire. Most of the rebuild places wanted 250 to 300 for core, even salvage yards want the cores. Other used and rebuilt options start about 750...

Needless to say I jumped on it. The seller did not want to bother with shipping (don't blame him) so I agreed to go get it.

Milwaukee is almost directly opposite side of Lake Michigan. GPS says 416 miles via Chicago, 6 hours 20 minutes. Via UP it is 468 miles, 7 hours 40 minutes. Hmm... which way to go?

Decided to go southern route in the morning, clearing Chicago by noon. Left 7AM, smooth ride to Indiana line. 94 was busy... then the 294 toll, stop five times every 8-10 miles, construction by O'Hare, six miles of stop and go for half an hour, construction almost to the Wis border. Then I94 to Milwaukee has miles of construction. Arrived 1 PM local in 6 hours 50 minutes, the last three hours were work.

Picked up the trans and clutch, looks really good. He offered some other stuff: 3 rims with tires (2 good tires, one shot) and a starter for $100. Jumped on that, too. (Turns out the 71 wheels are orphans. Cost me $100 for a new one a while back because I didn't have a spare.)

Departed 2PM, north to Green Bay. Cruise control all the way. On to Escanaba, cruise. Through the UP, cruise...
Arrived home in 7 hours, 20 minutes. A leisurely drive that was 50 miles longer and only took 30 mintes more!

Bottom line: As I have found in the past, Chicago is a miserable area to drive. Better to go north, turn left at the bridge. About 900 miles around, about 14 1/2 hours. The Prius gets around 47 mpg so I used less than 20 gallons of gas. Cheaper than shipping would be.

Not too bad for a good stash of parts:



Meanwhile, I modified the air intake to reduce induction noise. Used the OEM side duct to mount a reusable foam filter. (There was originally a massive oil bath filter there)



Replaced the hot rod exhaust with a more quiet system. Balanced runners and a larger muffler with side exit.



The project continues...

Oh for the love of a bug van. This time of year is awful for road repair traffic and it seems Chicago leads the list. I thought that hot rod exhaust system you had was really cool, did not know it would be noisy.

Do you think being a toad is hard on the transmission? I am told to remove the drive shaft to tow the Miata, it is a five speed and I sure would like to just tow it front wheels in the dolly.

Not too sure about the transmission, a case in progress.

Since it is both a differential and a transmission, even when towing the ring gear is slinging as usual. Lots of oil flying around for the carrier bearings and pinion gear. The input shaft attached to the pinion is the only other moving part. It has gears, spacers, etc and one bearing at the opposite end of the shaft from the pinion, but I believe they get splash lube from the gears slinging. The trans holds nearly a gallon of lube. (Stock engine only 2 1/2 qts oil!)

Since the shafts, gears, etc are well lubricated, spinning but carrying very little load there should be minimal wear. OTOH it can be argued that when the pinion DRIVE gear becomes a pinion DRIVEN gear the gears are running with that minimal load in the reverse direction...

The pinion is a spiral tapered hypoid type gear, the contact points between gear teeth are different when direction of load is reversed. (You can tell this with an old whining differential, the sound is almost always different when accelerating vs coasting)

Soo, does the albeit light reverse loading cause a problem? Of that I am not sure and opinions vary. Same argument applies to spiral gears in the transmission, I assume. I'm thinking that the wear areas on those reversed points are not the contact areas under load for normal driving. I suppose if the reverse wear gets bad enough it could affect the backlash. Jury is out...

If I was really concerned, I can unbolt the outer CV joint on each axle. Six small cap screws...

I will probably just swap in the new trans and pull it like usual.

quote:

Forums Misc. and Other Stuff A VW toad for Steve VW

quote:

will probably just swap in the new trans and pull it like usual.

I knew you had done research, so I am glad I asked, I was hoping some of that info might apply to my Miata but alas not!!

As always a nice lesson thank you Professor! Smiles about the dolly!!

Your love for spare parts is renown, I bet you have a spare Cessna engine and spar!!

Finally got the trans cleaned up, painted and ready to go. I replaced the front seal on the shift rod. I have 2 new complete axles, ready to go also. When I get these installed the driveline is done.



I have been driving the bus regularly lately. Fun to drive and lots of comments.

I will work on body next. I replaced the door seals on the rear and side doors. Happy with those. When I get the two front door seals changed I will be able to wash it without getting the inside wet. Also can paint without getting that inside.

Well I finally got back to the transmission job on the VW. I have been driving it all summer but I wanted to swap in that nice trans I got this summer, before the long haul south and west.

The coach is mostly ready for the run to Florida, so I put the VW in the garage. Pulled the rear bumper and skirt, ready to yank engine.



A few things to disconnect and out it comes.



Now for the axles and transmission! (to be continued)

Got a few more things done today. I drove the coach to Gaylord to get the fluids serviced.

Returned home and I disconnected the VW trans and got it out. Unfortunately, on the outboard ends of the drive shafts the bolts are rusted and stuck. Fortunately, the inboard ends both came loose and the shafts have not failed so I will reconnect the old ones and fight the outer bolts later.



I think it is a good thing I ordered new motor mounts. That one on the left looks a bit tired.



A bit more cleanup and the "new" trans can go in.

Didn't have much time today but I got the newer trans up in place. I pulled the front mount from the old trans and bolted it onto the new. I jockeyed the trans up on blocks and up into the front chassis mount.



Tomorrow I will reconnect the shift rod, reverse light wires, and ground strap on the front. Two axles to rebolt. Remount the starter and wires. Attach clutch cable. Ready for engine!

I will delay the engine install until I inspect and repair the fuel tank and gauge.

I removed the panel in front of the engine and inspected the fuel tank. No problems except the fuel sender is indeed defective. I have ordered a replacement.

I replaced the panel. Rebolted both axles, ground strap, reverse light wires, shift rod, clutch cable.

I moved the engine back under the car with a rolling jack and some patio blocks for side support.



Once under the car I jacked the engine up one block at a time until it was at the corect level. Got it lined up and it slid right in. Bolted in now. I replaced the motor mounts with the new ones and the engine is now back in the vehicle.



A few things to hook up and it will be ready for Florida! I need a break, this stuff is hard on my knees, back and neck.

Finished the install. Engine fired right up. No test drive yet just got another 3 inches of snow.



I needed to replace the gas gauge sender in the fuel tank. Considering the hassle to remove engine, then the gas tank I did what any lazy guy would do, I cut a hole in the floor. The sender is easy to replace that way. Gas gauge works finally!

Steve, I wouldn't call it "lazy guy" but would certainly call it "smart guy". Anything you do to save wear and tear on the old body is GOOD!

That is why I didn't drop the oil pan on my 5.9L Cummins, RTVd the stink out of it an hope it stays good for the Florida trip in December.