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2/16 Captain Doom |
I have the bubble insulation for all my windows; I also have vinyl fabric blackout curtains for all the windows except the 2 in the bedroom. This has kept the coach warm down to -10°F at my sister's in NW MO. With the fitted bubble insulation, the draft is also reduced. For the most part, two electric space heaters on low handle down to 20°F. The furnace handles lower temps along with the electric heat. Because you're relying on your furnace, it would pay to find out why it doesn't work. Most can be repaired; usual culprits are a clogged burner, a bad relay, a bad control board, or a bad fan motor. None is very expensive to repair. Rusty "StaRV II" '94 28' Breakaway: MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP Nelson and Chester, not-spoiled Golden Retrievers Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think we're not. In either case the idea is quite staggering. - Arthur C. Clarke It was a woman who drove me to drink, and I've been searching thirty years to find her and thank her - W. C. Fields | |||
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Official Barth Junkie |
My trial storm was just a piece of plexiglass 1/8 inch cut to fit inside the recess of the windowframe. (Just a rectangle with rounded corners) I duct taped the gap in the center where the windows overlap. (I have sliding windows) Then I put some 1/2 square foam self stick weatherstrip along the window edge inside the recess. The plexi goes into the recess, sits on the bottom edge of the recess. It is retained by strips of wood along top and sides. These in turn are retained by screws. (I removed a few of the existing window rim screws, drilled holes in plexi and wood, attached with longer screws.)Tighten just enough to snug up to plexi to the foam. Completely stopped the drafts. When the wind blows you can see the thin plexi "breathe" in and out! Much quieter on the road, NO condensation! I am planning to get more plexiglass before I run this winter. I will post pics soon, if you like. 9708-M0037-37MM-01 "98" Monarch 37 Spartan MM, 6 spd Allison Cummins 8.3 325+ hp | |||
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So after leaving my welding job today I was driving to the depot through the mane part of town. Now I have to tell you that the barth had been missing a bit so I went out and bought new plugs, wires, cap and roader. I was planning on doing the tune up first of the week. As I was driving the traffic got heavy and then bumper to bumper. I could see flashing lights up a head and knew there had been an accident. it was stop start for the next mile or so until I was stopped right in the middle of the accident weighting on a stop light a few cars up. I could see the cops and fire department all eyeing me. but I paid them no mind. I always get looks in the barth. when the light turned green the cars in front of me moved off and I stepped on the gas. At that moment the barth chose to let out the grand daddy of all back fires! It sounded like a shotgun blast! I looked around to see all the cops ducking for cover as I was only a few feet away from them. then I looked into my side view mirror and realized my muffler was now on the road a few feet behind me and a bit to the side of the road. There was nothing I could do at this point, so I put it into park, grabbed my work gloves out of my back pocket and jumped out. With head held High I pointed at the muffler much the way a little kid would at twenty dollars he had dropped in the street and called out "That's Mine!" then walked over to the twisted and mangled remains. scooping it up I made my way back to the barth and climbed inside. All the while it was like time had stood still for everyone watching. all eyes where glued on me. even the people who had caused the accident were looking at me as if I was crazy! But I just waved and stepped on the gas. The sound that came from the barth was now more like that of a cross between an Indy car and a bear having a seizure. I was afraid at least one of the cops would come after me to give me a ticket. But I made it the rest of the way to work without any other problems. Later in the evening my manager called me to the front of the store. when I arrived at the service desk there were two officers standing there weighting for me. my hart sank as I approached. But I was greeted with a smile as the police told me that they stopped by at the end of there shift to see if I was alright and how hard it would be to fix the barth. The visit ended with two officers and myself on our backs trying to figure out what could be done to put everything back together. This is a true story, and just go's to show how much people love barth's even when there falling apart | ||||
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3/23 |
Sometimes the voyage makes the stories and the memories. One other thing to check on the furnace is spiderwebs and muddobbers. If you have access to a blower type shop vac or compressor try blowing the air horn of the burner. It doesn't take much to scew up either the furnace or the water heater burner and unlike ones in a house these sit outside and are subject to our little critter friends. Of course it could be the furnace has served beyond its life expectancy. Don't overlook the value of a CO detector. Tim | |||
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5/10 |
Buy a carbon monoxide detector (and a smoke detector). Use that bubbly silver as window insulation, stuff it in the roof vent (and the kitchen vent). We use an Espar diesel heater in the big truck. They run on a drop of diesel a night. I know some busses use them and some boaters. Really economical and warm. Or Webasto heaters. Espar for truck costs around $800 but there might be used ones in the junkyard. Also furnaces for RVs... 1999 Bluebird Custom 33' 8.3 Cummins diesel pusher Former owner 1989 Barth Regal 25' | |||
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Ok so I spent the morning hanging out at the local muffler shop. $219.46 later I was back on the road. At least I have that problem fixed now and it is one thing off my list. While it was up on the lift I took a lot of photos of things I need to work on. The last time I had it up on a lift was back in the beginning of summer when I was redoing the rear suspension. I had a low rider as the springs had lost all there springiness and had to replace them. I found old springs at a junk yard from a F350 ford and made those work. I lived in that guys shop for a week and a half I also welded up myself a new drive shaft because with the new springs the old one was to short. At least today was not that bad Tim your right it was muddobbers that killed the old furnace. they blocked up the fan and that's what caused the armature to short. The motor still runs but pulls to many amps and just pops the breaker. Thanks "Marvin+Doris" for the tips on the different heaters. I will check them all out before I do anything. and ideas for the vents and windows too. While I'm at the depot today I'm going to check into a few things there as well. Well the adventure continues | ||||
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5/10 |
It sure looks good Forgot to mention we also made black out curtains with black felt material from WalMart, having 24 hrs daylight and Alaska in mind, but it also insulates good. 1999 Bluebird Custom 33' 8.3 Cummins diesel pusher Former owner 1989 Barth Regal 25' | |||
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Ok, so I was just looking back over this thread to find the names of things people told me about. I wanted to look into them more. As I was reading I realized that I had missed a few replies from Rusty and Steve. Steve that window Idea really sounds like a winner! I'm going to start looking into getting that done. Might take some time to work it all out, but I think if its done right that is a good permanent solution. that combined with quilted "blackout" curtains like what Rusty was talking about could really cut down on the drafts. Also the insolation for the vents Marvin and Doris talked about, along with some type of new furnace should get me through this winter in much better shape then last year. Now about the walls.... I'm trying to come up with some ideas of ways to reinsulate them without taking them totally apart. was thinking of using "the grate stuff" blown insulation. I think I could drill small holes and stick the end of the straw into them and shoot the insulation in that way. I would start at the bottom if the wall and work my way up. Or drop in attic loose insulation by taking the top of the wall apart and just dropping it in. then work it down with a long flexible rod. What do you think? I could cut holes in the backs of the cabinets and fill from there. then just patch by putting a new back panel in the cabinet. Under the windows would be the only problem with that idea. Also the old insulation would hinder the new from dropping all the way to the bottom of the wall. Guess I could put a hook on one end of my pull, and slowly use that to tear up or pull out the old insulation. By the time I get this all done it will be Summer | ||||
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Official Barth Junkie |
Doing the walls will be a challenge. It will be tricky to get the old out and the new in evenly... Good luck, keep us posted. When I was tweaking the fuel injection system, at one point it would backfire when you coasted down a hill then opened throttle... BAM! I was on I75 in Georgia at night pulling the hills with some dufus stuck along left side of me in my blind spot. I speed up down the hill 65mph, slow down lugging the hill to 55mph, there he is right along side... After several hills, I let it wind up down the hill, coasting, then bumped the throttle. (Forgot to mention both headers combine to a 3 inch exhaust that dumps out the left side in front of the rear axle...) I got an excellent fireball about the size of a watermelon right between us! Lit up both vehicles well! (I had been watching him in the mirror, saw it happen) You should have seen that guy go! (Kind of like he'd been shot at!) Only down side, it did split the muffler before I got the chip tuned right. As for heating, here are some pics of my window thing. I taped the center overlap and put 1/2 inch square foam weatherstrip around the inside frame of the window. Cut the plexiglass rectangle about 1/8 inch undersize. Made a cardboard pattern and rounded the corners. Bottom sits right in recess, sides and tops have wooden strip retainers. Be sure to make any holes in the plexi oversize to allow for expansion, etc. or they may start a crack. When I finish the ones for the other windows I will make some nice hardwood strips and maybe some screws with knob heads for easy removal. Also, esp in the old class C check the seals in the cab doors. Usually the rubber seals are pretty bad, also door is often sagging due to hinge wear. Either way, these can make for huge drafts. New rubber seals are often available lots cheaper than propane, pay off with quieter ride, too. Keep us posted. 9708-M0037-37MM-01 "98" Monarch 37 Spartan MM, 6 spd Allison Cummins 8.3 325+ hp | |||
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2/16 Captain Doom |
I had a whistle around my door, so sprayed the gaskets with 303 protectorant. The noise is gone. Rusty "StaRV II" '94 28' Breakaway: MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP Nelson and Chester, not-spoiled Golden Retrievers Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think we're not. In either case the idea is quite staggering. - Arthur C. Clarke It was a woman who drove me to drink, and I've been searching thirty years to find her and thank her - W. C. Fields | |||
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