heated mirrors unlikely.
AUX HTR probably 110V block heater (as opposed to AUX START which would be spring-loaded to off, but couples house batt to Chassis batt for starting).
I wonder what you (or somebody) turned on and left on this year.
By the way... seemed odd to find the question in the category "Pictures of My Barth)

Aux Heater is a blower motor mounted usually in the bottom of the closet in the bathroom area and works in conjunction with the regular automotive dash heater.

Nick

The Aux Heat switch on our 86 Regal run the blower motor for a rear engine heated coil. The switch is for 2 speeds. Our blower will run with the ignition off and will run the chassis battery down if left in the on position. In the low speed (down) position it is hard to hear the blower running.

quote:

Originally posted by Nick Cagle:
Aux Heater is a blower motor mounted usually in the bottom of the closet in the bathroom area and works in conjunction with the regular automotive dash heater.

Nick

My bad. should have remembered that from other discussions.

I have the same power drain in my '92 Breakaway! Every season it's the same thing, and so far no one has managed to figure out what it is. I had new batteries last year, both engine and house, and a new kill switch that I turned off for the winter. Tuesday I had to charge the engine batteries and plug into 110 to do the house batteries. It started then and the generator also started; I have not attempted today yet. I have not ever used the CB radio so I think it should be turned off but will check to be sure. As usual, I will be watching the forum for any other ideas. Thanks. Braley

To find out where your drain is coming from with you can use an amp meter or just a simple test light. Disconnect the - side of your battery and connect your meter (start with the 10amp scale) or test light between the battery cable and the - side of your battery. If you show a draw or the test light glows you have a drain on your battery. If you have a drain start pulling fuses till you have no drain. A radio will drain a battery after a prolonged period of time. It uses power to keep its memory active.

Doorman has good advice. Years ago I fixed a Corvette that eluded 3 separate shops trying to find the phantom load. If the ground cable was disconnected, the batteries lasted months. If connected, battery was dead in a week.

After 2 new batteries, 2 alternators and several other useless attempts the "pros" gave up. I did what Craig suggested, put a meter in the ground wire to the battery... sure enough, about .1 amp drain. Pulled all the fuses, still there. Pulled everything else on the fuse panel, turn signal flasher, etc. Turns out it was the seat belt warning buzzer! Trunk light and glove box lights are also common problems in older cars.

Owner didn't care about the buzzer, threw it away and lived happily ever after. Point is, don't stop at the fuses, keep looking till you find the current drain. Good luck.

Thanks All .. I tried the CB radio the 1st time I started it. The power is on the volume potentiometer in the handheld. When it clicks on you here the speakers come on, no static, no channel display if there should be. When it's off, it's off. (old enough to be dumb, lol)
Aux start is in the bank of switches to the left and works fine, but noticed the solenoid might let go after holding it for a while.
It makes sense to be aqua heater from chassis since it's in the dash. I assume it would have hoses going into it. I have this heater under the oven. I noticed what appears to be tstat or control wires that are disconnected. Didn't see where they should connect. I also found out I have 3 furnaces and 3 tstats. If this switch runs the blower, I assume the water flow is another switch or solenoid?
With engine running, I tried up and down and no sounds of a motor.
I got same reaction with access switch next to it.
No noticeable draw on dash voltmeter for either.
Noticeable when I turned headlights on.
The switch to the right is for dash fans. I noticed it's marked lo and hi. Hi works fine and center and down position are a bit touchy, with no fan in down position. To the right of that is a metal toggle, center off, no markings, no results when engaged.
I added more pictures on photobucket to identify more switches and troubleshooting.
Sorry about trying to slip one in without PB. My excuse was, I had to edit it to put the line in it and I didn't think I could do that to the pic on PB. Nor can I delete them?

quote:

If this switch runs the blower, I assume the water flow is another switch or solenoid?

Is it always flowing if the dash heater is on?

I did find a switch on the left side of dash that says heated mirror. No indicator light. Didn't trace any wires or power test.

As far as battery drain, I did test and got .15 amp draw on pos cable of chassis battery. I did test and got .15 amp draw on pos cable of chassis battery.
I also searched to see if step or patio lights or monitor panel were on chassis battery and confirmed they are not. All that is working with chassis battery disconnected.
Next step, fuse hunting.
I tried to remove the radio faceplate and couldn't get one side to release. Any help? I left it propped open, disconnected when i tested and got the .15 draw.
I also repaired the 2 patio light lenses and entry handle light. New bulbs in all
Very happy to see the handle light working !

quote:

Originally posted by MJ56:

quote:

If this switch runs the blower, I assume the water flow is another switch or solenoid?

Is it always flowing if the dash heater is on?

Since you found your rear heater I will assume that you have motor assisted heated water heater. Check where the hoses y off to your water heater, you will most likely find a shut off valve to your rear heat.

I had my doghouse off today to re-glue the hanging insulation. I had seen red hoses with a splice in them at the perimeter of opening to engine. I verified today that they cut and looped the supply back to itself and did same on the lines to rear.
I will assume something wasn't working and I will leave it abandoned for now. I would still like to test the wiring and replace sticky switch.

Any advice on taking dash panels apart?
It looks like a few screws and they would lift up.
How much slack would be in the wires?
Any experiences in how NOT to do it?

Remove the screws. Be careful that any cracks at the corners, Just don't lose any broken corners. they can be glued back on if cracked.

I pull the dash out about 3 or 4" then you can pull your headlight knob off by pulling it out to the on position and pressing the release button on the switch, I then pull the wiper knobs off and remove the mounting nuts. This allows enough room to get to the clip that holds the speedo cable. Once speedo cable is separated you will have good access to wiring and switches behind the dash.

I only have 1 corner cracked on my dash, but have seen pictures of others with missing corners. When re-installing just snug screws. Just had mine out to lubricate a noisy speedo cable.

Is there no hatch to reach through the top (like on a Breakaway)?

Our 85 Regal does not have a 'hatch'. Sure would be nice if it did.

I checked out a few more things today.
I discovered these gauges and knobs, I assume they are original and guessing they are for air bags.
The knob on the right, pulls off of shaft, I noticed a small hole in center of knob, thought it was for a screw to hold knob on. The left knob seems to push in, pull out and has a mini button in that center hole, like a push on/push off circuit breaker.
Any existing topics on this system? Not sure what to search for.

The gauge on the column is an aftermarket temp gauge. Seller said it was added because original wasn't accurate.