Finally got around to yanking the girl out today and everything seems fine except the engine driven fan hasn't turned on. Running about 2/3rd temp wise. This is the first vehicle I've ever owned with a mechanical fan. Was working just fine when she went away last year so I'm at a loss for why it would stop working over the winter. Thoughts.

on the front of you fan clutch there is a small bimetallic spring that turn a shaft to engage the fan clutch. Make sure it has not rusted in 2 and is still connected to the slot in the shaft.

It is there and not rusted. I'm at a loss as to why it would just fail all of a sudden like that without warning. Doesn't look all that old compared to the rest of the engine. Have one on order. The shroud doesn't split in two does it? Having trouble telling if I have coolant coming out of the top hose. I squeeze it and can't feel water in there. If that were the case wouldn't the think have majorly overheated on a 15 minute after warmed up drive with a mix of highway and stop and go roads? I would think that even if the radiator isn't "hot" that the bimetal coil would get enough heat from a warm engine while sitting idling right?

Did you feed it Craft beer again???? Try Miller Lite!!

Give it a tap or two, if bi-metal is good gotta just be stuck.

quote:

Originally posted by Duane88:
Did you feed it Craft beer again???? Try Miller Lite!!

Give it a tap or two, if bi-metal is good gotta just be stuck.

Naw, I just pee on it which is pretty much the same thing as Miller Lite, just without the fancy label. I never said the bi metal was good. Just that it is there and not rusty. Remember I have very limited access the way mine is set up. I still don't have a clue how I would even get the fan shroud off. It seems like it is one piece and I would need to remove the radiator and raise the thing up 3 feet so I can slide it out below.

Fan clutch doesn't kick in till about 220 or so. I changed mine several year ago (rusted/Broken spring). Removed front engine cover to fire wall. Screws hidden in carpet. Laid moving blanket and sleeping bag over engine and was able to separate fan & clutch from water pump and pulley. by laying down on engine and reaching down from top. On mine the fan shroud is 2 pieces stapled together.in the middle. I did spit mine on the class C. Just looked at the Class A and it has never been split. I don't remember the job being to bad.Replaced hoses and belts at same time.

Oh it has been well past 220 a few times today. Hasn't been that high on the gauge (2/3rd to 3/4) since last summer in the SW when temps were in the 120s. Over flow was nearly full. I have yet to figure out how to remove the radiator cap. Turns to the relief spot but won't go beyond. Of course I need the thing done by Fri or I am sleeping on the ground. I still can't see how you reached down all that way to do the belts. I have the belts but don't think I can get at 'em without removing the radiator and I really don't want to try that anytime soon.

Ben, Have you removed the front part of the engine cover all the way to the fire wall. Mine had silicon holding it on. This should give you access to all your belts and hoses.

alot of times when these fans sit up it leaks the silicone fluid out of it, the fluid is what gives the resistance to turn the fan from the shafft, its a really good setup, doesnt rob as much power as a bolt on mechanical straight or flex fan and no hard failures to worry about like a electric fan, but if you are running hot while driving down the road you have another issue, the clutch fan really only works at idle , if its running warm at idle and then cooling off once you get going then its more than likely its the fan, also if you have the cover off and you start the engine you should hear it pulling air pretty hard, take and give it some rpms and hold it and it should slack off after a min or two, if its doing that its fine. watch this vid for the way they work .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UwM4OqsLek4

Yeah the front cover is off. There is access but not really good access. Once I figure out how to get the shroud out of the way it might look different.

I am wondering if the fluid came out. Does the fluid look red like ATF? After I backed it out of the spot I store it I had to readust the mirrors and stuff and it left a pretty large 8"x12" puddle of what I thought was ATF but in hindsite it was proably too far forward to have come from the trans (unless it came from the cooler).

It was running right where it should on the highway but would start going up as soon as I got off. Going out to try to pry the blasted rad cap off. Hoping not to break the housing.

My Regal radiator cap was hard to remove also. You had to push down really hard and turn to remove (like child proof pill bottle)

The new radiator has a different style filler neck and it is easier to remove the cap.

I replaced the fan clutch a while back. When it is working you can hear the fan roar. Not that expensive.

Cap came off. I was more afraid to break the housing so I took the whole housing off and then it came easily. Now that I know about that last lip won't be an issue. Fluid like I though was pretty new and good to go.

I also did get the fan clutch off. The studs pulled out rather than the nuts coming off sadly on all of them but here is the big problem. Even with loosening the shroud I can't get the thing out. Do I need to take the alternator and the alt bracket out? There is a brace going from the frame to the rad support does that need to come out? I just have very little room to move the shroud. With the fan blades out of the way it doesn't look horrible to get the belts off so if I can figure out how to get the fan clutch out quick enough maybe I'll swap the belts out. Mine look fine but have at least 20k on 'em.

I think I changed the clutch out inside the fan shroud.

Not exactly the same but it had a high level of aggravation. It was either a Chevy or GMC pickup and geometry precluded removal of shroud. First I had to remove the fan then the clutch. It was tight and required the average amount of blood from back of hands and arms but I figure that is just standard help for the forensic folks if and when.
Tim

quote:

Originally posted by ccctimtation:
Not exactly the same but it had a high level of aggravation. It was either a Chevy or GMC pickup and geometry precluded removal of shroud. First I had to remove the fan then the clutch. It was tight and required the average amount of blood from back of hands and arms but I figure that is just standard help for the forensic folks if and when.
Tim

Didn't say it was fun.