Screen Removal Bargman L-300 Door Handle brakes Satellite Fuel Tank Fire Extinguishers Roof Antenna Tech Talk Forum Shortcut Motor Oil Window Generators headlights batteries Radiator AC Unit Grab Handle Wiper Blades Wiper Blades Door Locks Door Locks Door Locks Door Locks Rims Front Shocks Rear Shocks Front Tires Oil Filter Steps Roof Vent Awning Propane Tank Mirror Info Clearance Lights Clearance Lights Clearance Lights Clearance Lights Clearance Lights Spartan Chassis Gillig Chassis Freightliner Chassis P-32 Chassis MCC Chassis
    Forums    Tech Talk    killed grey water tank -must replace-help
Go to...
Start A New Topic
Search
Notify
Tools
Reply To This Topic
  
killed grey water tank -must replace-help
 Login now/Join our community
 
<therealtigger>
posted
I backed over an Ivan stump - it pulled my entire exhaust plumbing loose including the
connection at the grey water tank.
This is on an '85 31 footer.
THe plumbing line I can fix. but I think the tank is going to have to be replaced -it's ripped, not just unconnected. ANy comments, hints, sugestions from oldtimers appreciated.
rusti
 
Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 1/11
"5+ Years of Active Membership"
Picture of Jack
posted Hide Post
Rusti, Thats a real crappy deal, too bad.
This is a site that has tanks, maybe they can help.
http://www.tjtrailers.com/store/abs-water-tanks.html


------------------
89 Barth Regal 32
Runs like a Deere
New Hampshire
 
Posts: 369 | Location: North Troy, Vermont | Member Since: 08-30-2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
"First Year of Inception" Membership Club
Picture of davebowers
posted Hide Post
Hi Tig, welcome to Barthmobile.com..

You shouldn't have any problem finding a tank that will fit. We can inundate you with guys who sell tanks. However, when you say ripped. Is a hunk of the tank gone, or is it just cracked. If so most of your quality rv places can pull the tank and repair it. The welding they use to repair it, is homogeneous with the tank material so it is as strong or actually stronger than before. You can also repair it with regular ABS cement. I fixed a 16 inch crack in my black water with glass cloth and abs cement. I grew up in Southern California and saw a lot of surfboard repair.

------------------

 
Posts: 1658 | Location: Eden Prairie, MN 55346 USA | Member Since: 01-01-2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of Gunner
posted Hide Post
I had a big split in the black water tank of my '86, albeit from a different cause, and fixed it myself. Go to your local Auto Supply (Pep Boys, AutoZone) and purchase a "Fiberglass Repair Kit" - Bondo is one Trade Name. Cut the fiberglass sheet to fit, mix epoxy and spread on the break or around where the pipe inlet was pulled off, place the sheet over the break, then more sheets, more epoxy. Follow the directions in the kit. Should work, and very strong - and real easy, since you won't have to finish (smooth) the new fiberglass patch.
Remember: the worst that will happen is it won't work, and you'll have to buy a replacement tank. Go for it!

------------------
"You are what you drive" - Clint Eastwood

[This message has been edited by Gunner (edited January 16, 2005).]
 
Posts: 474 | Location: Republic of Texas | Member Since: 12-31-2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
<therealtigger>
posted
thanks barthers, All 3 posts helped. It actually ripped the area around the outlet out,
but I may try the fiberglass solution just for grins and then buy a plastic tank if it doesn't hold. thank God it's the grey water. I wouldn't be nearly so willing if it was the black ;-}
Rusti
 
Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Glassnose Aficionado
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 2/09
Picture of Danny Z
posted Hide Post
I just finished doing this to my holding tank where the drain leaves the tank. One thing I found that made it easier working under the coach was to cut the glass into strips, then dip them into the coffee can of resin till soaked, then apply and wipe down. After setting up sand or gring till fairly smooth and brush on a top coat to make sure everything is sealed good. Wear surgical gloves and keep all skin surfaces covered or you'll be pickin' resin from your skin for a week!! G'luck,

------------------
Dan & Suzy Z
'81 Euro 28
 
Posts: 3491 | Location: Venice Fl. | Member Since: 07-12-2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
posted Hide Post
Fiber glass is strongest when not to much resin is used. In other words NOT shinny, so don't flood the surface. Try to wet, but not soak, and if you do soak then blot or squeeze out as much resin as you can. They sell a small dia. roller approx. 5/8" X 3" like a mini paint roller with groves to push the cloth or mat down and force out excess resin. The roller is made of hard plastic that the resin will not stick to.
Needless to say the surface must be cleaned first, and roughed up with approx. 50 grit sand paper. I wish you well. I like mat better than cloth, but in this case cloth will work fine. On a external surface that is going to be painted the cloth texture will find its way to the finished surface and you will see the pattern of such. It takes sometimes weeks for it to do such but it will.

[This message has been edited by Smith Brother (edited January 18, 2005).]
 
Posts: 629 | Location: INDY,IN USA | Member Since: 06-30-2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Glassnose Aficionado
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 2/09
Picture of Danny Z
posted Hide Post
Hi Rusti, Just wondering about the holding tank. Did you replace it or repair it? After much fiberglass work and cussin, I have mine back together and it only leaks a tiny bit but one more aplication should do it. Otherwise I'll be looking for a link for a new tank.

------------------
Dan & Suzy Z
'81 Euro 28
 
Posts: 3491 | Location: Venice Fl. | Member Since: 07-12-2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
<therealtigger>
posted
Actually I haven't done anything yet. This weekend I'm moving it to the spot where It's going to sit for the next several months and I decided to fix it AFTER I moved it just in case it found another stump. Then I'm definalty going to try the 'fix it' advise first. At least I'll be in a wooded area and it's just gray water so if I have to do it a few times it
won't make a lot of difference.

Rusti
 
Reply With QuoteReport This Post
<therealtigger>
posted
Well, I finally got brave enough to reconnect the holding tank. Carefully gollowing all the directions from the messaages I draped it with enough fiberglass matting to fix the ancle of a goodsized elephant.
I thought at first that I had fixed it in one try, but after the tank fillled a bit I found that I have a small but steady drip. Not devestating but annoying. The next free hour I have I'll see if I can find it and plug it.
The latex gloves helped but I should a had shoulder length evening gloves like the ladies used to wear when I was young. The fibergass mix kept dripping down my arm to the area just above my elbow, and at one point I also sliiped and dropped some fibers on it. By the time I was finished I was in a cast too. Oh well, I never claimed to be neat.

Rusti
 
Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Glassnose Aficionado
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 2/09
Picture of Danny Z
posted Hide Post
Still trying to stop all the leaks. It seems that every one I cover another seeps through from somewhere else. It's maddening but at least it doesn't involve electricity!

------------------
Dan & Suzy Z
'81 Euro 28
 
Posts: 3491 | Location: Venice Fl. | Member Since: 07-12-2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
  Powered by Social Strata  
 

    Forums    Tech Talk    killed grey water tank -must replace-help

This website is dedicated to the Barth Custom Coach, their owners and those who admire this American made, quality crafted, motor coach.
We are committed to the history, preservation and restoration of the Barth Custom Coach.