I am paranoid about engine fires. I am informed by those who prowl motor home junkyards, that most of the gas MHs are there from engine fires. A couple of insurance investigators have also confirmed this.

I do not like slip-on rubber fuel lines in the engine compartment of a gas motor home. The high engine compartment temperatures of a motor home can cause shrinkage and deterioration of the hose, with the resultant loosening of clamps, causing fuel leakage and the possibility of fires.

If you absolutely MUST use slip-on hose, be sure the clamp is perfectly round. Use the proper size Oetiker or ear clamp, a good quality fuel injection clamp or a Corbin clamp. My preference is the band clamps used on fuel injection hoses, or the Corbin, because it will keep tension on the hose as it shrinks from heat and age. The Oetiker clamp is reputed to do that, but it is of only limited utility as the hose ages and shrinks. I have had one instance where I could pull off an OEM hose held on with an OEM Oetiker clamp. However, this was on a 92 vehicle bought by me in 06, so the hose was really old. If you must use a worm drive clamp on a fuel line, be sure it is perfectly round, and tension it at least once a year. That includes clamps anywhere in the fuel system, not just in the engine compartment, although hose shrinkage and the resultant leakage is accelerated by engine heat.

Fire sleeves or Thermo Tec sleeve/tubing over it will help, too. Even flex conduit can help. I have used it on on tow cars to fight vapor lock.

Having a Jaguar fuel-injected V12 has given me way too much experience in this area.

I should add here that another cause of gasser engine fires is a really hot transmission forcing fluid up the dipstick tube and spilling onto a hot exhaust system. Synthetic fluid will allow your trans to run cooler, and it is less likely to burn. Of course a trans cooler and temp gage is good, too.

Power steering fluid is flammable, too, so hoses and clamps there should also be well maintained.

The Quadrajet carburetor is prone to developing fuel leaks at the soft plugs at the bottom of the casting. If you have the faintest hint of gasoline odor there, have it looked at. It is easiest to detect after shut down. Forcing a clean paper towel under the carb will tell you if there is fresh gas there or not.

You can learn a lot by opening the doghouse after a long hot drive and looking and sniffing.


Glycol anti-freeze becomes flammable at high temperatures, too, so keeping your hoses in good shape is important.

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Thanks for the info Bill. I'll be saving that page.

jack !!!

I agree with Bill on this point and the NHRA allows only 1 foot of rubber hose on race cars for this reason. Ford has used a short piece of rubber hose into the fuel filter for a long time and it has led to a lot of fires, because people fail to replace the hose or use the 'useless' spring clamp. Chevy has steel lines to the carb. Maintenance is a key issue, replace the hoses like you do fan belts-maybe more often. I think Bill is responding to my response about the Ford 460. The hose is already there, you might as well put it to a better use. If a fuel pressure gauge is there, you might inspect it more often. Even better, install stainless braided lines with AN fittings. Remember, though these lines are just jacketed rubber hoses and must be changed also.