This link is from the Newell Classic forum.

Posting it here because it has some universal info that might prevent a fire by the simple replacement of an old evaporative RV refrigerator to a low-draw 110V electric.

BillyT43 had kindly responded to an inquiry for 110V replacement refrigerators for the Barth, and I had read his informative article on RV fires which is included in my post #14 on this Newell forum thread:

http://www.newellclassic.com/f...s-rv-fire-issue.html

voyager1

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Link to Wanderlodge Owners Group discussion about this fire.


http://goo.gl/nzYkb

Ran across information regarding RV refrigerator fires and alternatives in 110V. The insider awareness of the potential fire hazard is what caught my attention and hope the information is useful and instructive for the safety of your family and motor coach.

rb
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Date: July 15, 2010



To Our Valued Customers & Friends,

For over a decade, Norcold and Dometic RV Absorption Refrigerators, have been burning down travel trailers, motorhomes and buses. Since fire is indiscriminate, damage is often not limited to the RV. The flames also destroy everything surrounding your RV; garages, homes, automobiles, collectibles and life itself. Although both manufactures have taken steps to prevent these mishaps, fires still occur on a very regular basis.

On July 14, 2010 a 2005 Newmar Essex, a very expensive motorhome, burned on my lot. Fortunately quick response from my neighbor, who noticed the smoke, saved an entire row of motorhomes from being destroyed until the fire department arrived. Inevitably I, along with everyone else who has ever touched this motorhome, will be sued by the customers’s insurance company. Years of expensive litigation will follow even though it is clear-cut that failure of the Norcold refrigerator was the direct cause of the blaze that totally destroyed the coach and this is the process every time someone’s coach burns due to a refrigerator fire, tying you up in court for months if not years before they ultimately settle out of court.

In lieu of these rolling hydrogen bombs, I personally recommend that you allow us to remove your absorption type refrigerator, dispose of it properly and replace it with a conventional household 110 volt refrigerator. Some of the advantages associated with these are, much lower purchase price, little or no maintenance, elimination of the fire hazard associated with absorption refrigerators, no propane consumption, more consistent control of refrigerator and freezer temperatures, FROST FREE, no need to be precise when leveling your coach, and a larger capacity in the same amount of space. A 1,000 watt inverter will easily power it with power to spare for television, satellite systems, etc. while traveling and once you plug in, and drawing only between 4 and 7 amps, the new refrigerator will easily run on available campground power.

To this end, I have decided that until the RV absorption refrigerator manufacturers correct this dangerous condition, we will no longer sell, install, or repair these units. I apologize for the inconvenience that this change in policy will cause you but I am compelled to protect your RV, your safety and absolutely must limit my business’ exposure to this on-going liability. Some of you may choose not to convert to a conventional refrigerator and I understand this just make sure your refrigerator is turned off before leaving your coach for repairs.

Billy Thibodeaux's Premiere RV, Inc.
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This RV repair center recommended the Samsung R197 110V refrigerator. It draws 400 Watts AC but only when the compressor is on and the door is open. Since the interior illumination is L.E.D. I would think that most of that would be compressor. If your room is limited, check out the Whirlpool 9.6 cu/ft model. It will directly replace the Norcold 682/841.

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Newell Forum member, Encantotom did a low cost conversion to an all electric Whirlpool 110V refrigerator in his 1990 Newell:

"The best all-electric refrigerator that I have found to replace a typical RV unit (over and under doors, 60” tall and 24” wide) is the Whirlpool 9.7 CuFt Top Mount Refrigerator, Model ETOMSRXTQ. It comes in white, black, and silver colors, and is usually less than $400.00. (You can find them at Lowes (store or on-line) – they deliver and will take away the old RV refrigerator, too.) And you only have to make minor modifications to the cabinet the refrigerator fits into."

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Billy,

When traveling how often would you have to run the generator to keep the batteries charged up for the inverter.
Also when camping with no available ac electric to plug into?
If the batteries get too low is there some type of shut off to cut off the power to the fridg?

Jim

I replaced my 3 way with a house fridge last year. Traveling down the road alternator has no issue keeping batteries charged. With 2 105ah coach batteries at 90+ deg outside I can get a day+ before having to recharge. I'll run gen for a few hr. a day to run air's, fridge, and bat. charger. At 75 deg I can make the weekend.

If I was boondocking for a week or so at a time I would stay with LP. Statements from Billy T, and Bill N.Y. convinced me this would work, The $160 fridge from Menards made My choice easy.

Define how you are going to use your RV. If you go from power pole to power pole an AC refer is fine. If you like to live off grid, you will grow to hate your AC frig. I've had both and for us LP is the choice. We have done a lot of federal camp grounds and many have no power, just a place to park and friendly neighbors do not run gensets very often.

We have 400 watts of solar power (sometimes) and 200 amp hours of batteries. This will take us thru one day. We use the coffee pot, microwave and entertainment stuff. With an ac frig we would need another bank of batteries just for it. Plus, much more charging capacity. So beside the frig we are talking more batteries, more charging, so when all is said and done not much money savings.

So maintain you refrigerator properly and you will have no problems. There have been a lot of RVs built with absorbtion refrigerators and very little problem.

We have been RVing since 1978 and have spent a lot of time off grid. Even thinking of doing a couple of months in the Baja this winter. No power poles there. So think and plan your future before making a choice.

What are the maintenance things you should do to avoid having a fire with an absorption frig? Is it a problem when the absorption frig is on propane or a problem no matter what the power source?

Maybe a dumb question But absorption fridge = propane..right? My fridge is 12v and 110.
I have 4 golf cart batteries and can run the fridge in 90+ degree weather for 3+ days on 12v.

Absorption reefers can run off 120 VAC, 12 VDC, and/or LPG.

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
Absorption reefers can run off 120 VAC, 12 VDC, and/or LPG.

Hmmmmm, so how do I know if it is an absorption refer?

quote:

Hmmmmm, so how do I know if it is an absorption refer?

I guess, if you see or hear a compressor, its not.

quote:

Originally posted by Dick Dubbs:

quote:

Hmmmmm, so how do I know if it is an absorption refer?

I guess, if you see or hear a compressor, its not.

Oh, thats easy enough. I do hear it turn on and off.

There will be an outside access; in that area will be coils, a burner, and a flue.

Absorption reefers work off heat generated by a burner or electric heating element.

They got this "fireman in a can" things that you can stick on the bottom of your range hood and in the event of a grease fire it releases a extinguishing substance. Wonder if something like that could be mounted in the fridge compartment?

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
There will be an outside access; in that area will be coils, a burner, and a flue.

Absorption reefers work off heat generated by a burner or electric heating element.

Ok that's what I thought. I have none of that. Thanks