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Hello folks, I know this isn't a Barth question, but I haven't been able to locate the information I need. Yesterday afternoon the parking brake cable on my 1992 Mazda pickup siezed up. the left rear wheel is locked tight, and I had to engage the 4 wheel drive to get it out of the place it was. any suggestions how I can get it to release so I could drive it to a repair shop about 30 miles away, rather than having it towed? Rather bad timing...I'm s'posed to leave for Oregon in it Saturday morning. Thanks in advance, and thanks for all the great tips and info. geoffrey | |||
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If it is the actual cable that is seized, cut it; perhaps at each wheel. A new one isn't that expensive. "You are what you drive" - Clint Eastwood | ||||
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o.k. I know this sounds dumb, but what would you suggest I use to cut it near the wheel? the outer fixed housing the cable runs in is about 3/8" diameter. I'm guessing that usually the whole thing gets replaced anyway, rather than just the inner cable- correct? so no loss if I cut it. thank you, geoffrey | ||||
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Best cutter is bolt cutters; it will be hard to cut. A hacksaw should work if you can get to it. The whole thing will be replaced, so hack away [URL=IF IT IS THE CABLE THAT SEIZED. "You are what you drive" - Clint Eastwood | ||||
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I've been underneath it several times today, trying to get the left cable to pull back as far as the right one does at the junction point. There one cable attaches to each end of a metal fitting that the single front cable attaches to, and the left cable is extended forwards an inch or so more than the right one.] the cable/brakes had 'stuck' a few times before, but backing up and using the brakes seemed to release it each time. However, this time I had to park on a steep incline facing uphill and it wouldn't release at all. I had to turn around and go downhill in 4 wheel drive, then come back up the less steep driveway to our parking lot where I could park on a level spot and get under it. Like you said, they aren't that costly, and with luck I can get them replaced tomorrow if parts are available. thanks again... (seeing the Republic of Texas address makes me a little homesick-but I don't miss the heat!) | ||||
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First Month Member 11/13 |
I wonder if it could be soaked and flexed hourly with PB Blaster. I have had really good results with that stuff. I would even hit it with a hammer to jar stuff loose and let the PB in. If the cable has a plastic covering, cut it away wo allow the PB in. Pay particular attention to saturating it near the wheel. That is probably where the moisture entered. A propane torch could heat the housing enough to loosen things up, too. Use a sheet metal shield near the gas tank or fuel lines. If you have to cut it, a wheel in a die grinder has worked for me on those things. . 84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered | |||
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Bill, I appreciate the suggestions...and under other circumstances might follow them. The suggestion of a cutting wheel is excellent! Thinking about it, our area got at least 65-70 inches of rain this winter and the truck was parked outside most if not all of that time. maybe water could have condensed inside the cable from the constant wet and frequent fog. I think replacement of the entire cable system is probably the best option now, and with luck I'll have the pads, etc. checked at the same time even though the brakes seem to work fine when they aren't stuck. | ||||
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Why not have it towed by a flatbed tow truck. They can power winch the truck onto the bed. Larry and Heidi from CA | ||||
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woops, I missed the part where you said you didn't want it towed. Larry and Heidi from CA | ||||
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Resolution of this involved a dealer-only special order item that took over a week to get in for the repair. it was a replacement for the left emergency brake cable, which was frozen up completely. thanks for all the input from you very helpful folks. | ||||
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