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Battery Isolator Location
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Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 3/11
Picture of Tom  and Julie
posted
Hello again: I am finishing up my post purchase maintenance and have just completed replacing the alternator (had it rebuilt), and one bad, old 8d battery. Charging works fine and the only remaining problem is I can't find the isolator to check it. I have followed the red cable from the alternator to the starter and then into a wire loom. I would have thought the isolator would be in the engine compartment but I have only found the "stuff" in the attached picture. Since none of these have fins or obvious identification I am at a loss. If anybody has a clue as to the identification of these "things" I would appreeciate your telling me what they are. I have an intelli system that switches the shore power to the coach and it energizes the 12 disconnect when I plug in. I cannot switch to the "store" position while plugged in. I also found a 75 amp battery charger under the bed that leads to the coach batteries. Is it possible the intelli system replaces an isolator? Lastly the small circuit breaker on the right appears to have had a small lever at one time and the label says "reset" with an arrow pointing up. The lever is gone but volatge is fine on both sides. It is only marked HiAmp but has no rating that I can find.
This is a 93 regency, 300 hp Cat, 32 foot, with the 4 speed Allison transmission.



1993 32' Regency Wide Body, 4 speed Allison Trans, Front Entry door, Diamond Plate aluminum roof &
1981 Euro 22' w Chevy 350 engine and TH 400 tranny
 
Posts: 1514 | Location: Houston Texas | Member Since: 12-19-2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 03/22
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Not sure about the Regency, but on my Breakaway, I don't have an isolator. I have a series of relays (factory installed) that 1 connects the coach batteries to the coach load, and 2nd one that connects the coach batteries to the alternator (and chassis system). You may have a similar system.

Problem that I have had with this system is that when I turn the key to the "run" position, the coach batteries are connected to the chassis system so that the engine starting current is drawn off of both the chassis batteries and the coach batteries.

I now have installed a solid state delay box that prevents the the coach batteries to be connected to the alternator until the charging system has reached 13.4 volts for 30 seconds, If the chassis system drops below (while the coach batteries are connected to the alternator) below 12 volts, the coach batteries are taken off the charging system and will not reconnect until the charging system has reach 13.4 volts again.

I am also going to install the "Big Boy" relay to connect the coach batteries to the coach load to eliminate a relay holding current load.

My solar panel is connected at all times to the coach batteries so if the batteries are off line, all the solar power will go to charging the batteries.


Ed
94 30' Breakaway #3864
30-BS-6B side entry
New Cummins 5.9L, 375+ HP
Allison 6 speed
Spartan chassis
K9DVC
Tankless water heater
 
Posts: 2178 | Location: Los Gatos, CA | Member Since: 12-08-2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 3/11
Picture of Tom  and Julie
posted Hide Post
Do you have an AUX Start switch on the dash? Nothing happens when I push it and I don't know if that is a symptom of a relay or the mystery isolator.
Thanks for the tip though.
Tom


1993 32' Regency Wide Body, 4 speed Allison Trans, Front Entry door, Diamond Plate aluminum roof &
1981 Euro 22' w Chevy 350 engine and TH 400 tranny
 
Posts: 1514 | Location: Houston Texas | Member Since: 12-19-2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 2/16
Captain Doom
Picture of Rusty
posted Hide Post
The emergency start switch should parallel the house batteries with the engine batteries to give more starting power. At most, you would hear a click as the relay closes, but you'd still have to start normally.


Rusty


MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP; built-to-order by Peninsular Engines:  Hi-pop injectors, gear-driven camshaft, non-waste-gated, high-output turbo, 18:1 pistons.  Fuel economy increased by 15-20%, power, WOW!"StaRV II"

'94 28' Breakaway: MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP

Nelson and Chester, not-spoiled Golden Retrievers

Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think we're not.
In either case the idea is quite staggering.
- Arthur C. Clarke

It was a woman who drove me to drink, and I've been searching thirty years to find her and thank her - W. C. Fields
 
Posts: 7734 | Location: Brooker, FL, USA | Member Since: 09-08-2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 3/11
Picture of Tom  and Julie
posted Hide Post
OK, Then this works just like my old SOB! Since this is a pusher I would not be able to hear anything, but everything starts properly.
Thanks, Rusty.


1993 32' Regency Wide Body, 4 speed Allison Trans, Front Entry door, Diamond Plate aluminum roof &
1981 Euro 22' w Chevy 350 engine and TH 400 tranny
 
Posts: 1514 | Location: Houston Texas | Member Since: 12-19-2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of Lloyd Knudson
posted Hide Post
on my 91 regency I do have isolater but he only time I use acc switch is when motor batteries won't turn it over. I had to use it several times untill I insalled all new batteries 27s for start and 4 6 volt golf batteries for the coach.I had 8ds new but they where drawn down by 15 amp oil heater when power went out and we where gone. unable to bring them back so switched to golf cart batteries. The rv shop said you can draw them all way down and bring them back.they recomended interstate batteies. there should be a switch in battery compartment that turns every thing off on mine follow the leads they should take to isolator. there is another switch in enterance that shuts every thing off.


1991 regency 300 cat 9kw genset
 
Posts: 36 | Location: monroe wa. | Member Since: 04-04-2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 03/22
posted Hide Post
Yes I have an "AUX" switch on the dash but with the original design from Barth, if I turned the key on, it would parallel both battery sets before starting. That is what I didn't like! If the chassis batteries are low it is really rough on the relays that switch the house batteries in and out during starting!

With the key off, the "AUX" switch would (and still does) parallel the batteries if I need to have extra amps for starting.


Ed
94 30' Breakaway #3864
30-BS-6B side entry
New Cummins 5.9L, 375+ HP
Allison 6 speed
Spartan chassis
K9DVC
Tankless water heater
 
Posts: 2178 | Location: Los Gatos, CA | Member Since: 12-08-2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 3/11
Picture of Tom  and Julie
posted Hide Post
Thanks for the info! If I did have an isolator would it normally be in the engine compartment (remember this is a diesel pusher) on the firewall? Has someone found these hidden or attached somewhere under the frame?
Tom


1993 32' Regency Wide Body, 4 speed Allison Trans, Front Entry door, Diamond Plate aluminum roof &
1981 Euro 22' w Chevy 350 engine and TH 400 tranny
 
Posts: 1514 | Location: Houston Texas | Member Since: 12-19-2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 03/22
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Shouldn't be to far away from the alternator if it is there and the alternator is a high current one. If it has one and the job was done well, it should be in an area where it get less heat from the engine and maybe has some air flow. In my SOB it was right by the alternator on top of the engine block, not real smart!


Ed
94 30' Breakaway #3864
30-BS-6B side entry
New Cummins 5.9L, 375+ HP
Allison 6 speed
Spartan chassis
K9DVC
Tankless water heater
 
Posts: 2178 | Location: Los Gatos, CA | Member Since: 12-08-2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 2/16
Captain Doom
Picture of Rusty
posted Hide Post
In my Breakaway, it's in the battery compartment (which is very close to the engine).


Rusty


MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP; built-to-order by Peninsular Engines:  Hi-pop injectors, gear-driven camshaft, non-waste-gated, high-output turbo, 18:1 pistons.  Fuel economy increased by 15-20%, power, WOW!"StaRV II"

'94 28' Breakaway: MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP

Nelson and Chester, not-spoiled Golden Retrievers

Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think we're not.
In either case the idea is quite staggering.
- Arthur C. Clarke

It was a woman who drove me to drink, and I've been searching thirty years to find her and thank her - W. C. Fields
 
Posts: 7734 | Location: Brooker, FL, USA | Member Since: 09-08-2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of Gunner
posted Hide Post
Has someone found these hidden or attached somewhere under the frame?
Raise the bed and look down on the walls/structures in the engine compartment. On mine the batteries are exposed when the passenger side access door is raised, and the isolator (some electrical gizmo, anyway) is mounted on a frame piece between the engine and the battery shelf - out of sight directly behind the batteries.


"You are what you drive" - Clint Eastwood
 
Posts: 474 | Location: Republic of Texas | Member Since: 12-31-2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 3/11
Picture of Tom  and Julie
posted Hide Post
Thanks Gunner. Mine has the single queen bed so it has a large removable panel that opens to the engine compartment. The coach batteries are housed in a separate compartment accessible from the passenger side of the coach. The batteries are on a pull out shelf but no isolator. The bac k wall has only the relays in the picture I attached to the original question. I am concerned about the hiamp breaker that has its reset lever broken off but for now everything works.
Thanks for taking time to answer.
Tom


1993 32' Regency Wide Body, 4 speed Allison Trans, Front Entry door, Diamond Plate aluminum roof &
1981 Euro 22' w Chevy 350 engine and TH 400 tranny
 
Posts: 1514 | Location: Houston Texas | Member Since: 12-19-2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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