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8/19 |
I welded mine with a plastic welder. Yes I did have to remove it | ||
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2/16 Captain Doom |
Most likely polyethylene; ABS can't be welded. Harbor Freight sells a welding kit. Rusty "StaRV II" '94 28' Breakaway: MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP Nelson and Chester, not-spoiled Golden Retrievers Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think we're not. In either case the idea is quite staggering. - Arthur C. Clarke It was a woman who drove me to drink, and I've been searching thirty years to find her and thank her - W. C. Fields | |||
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First Month Member 11/13 |
Agreed it is most likely PE. If it is softish and waxy it is PE, and can be welded, and glued if you use the right stuff from 3M, and maybe some radiator glue. I have had good results with the 3M DP8005 for repairs, but prefer to weld bigger jobs. Haven't tried any of the radiator repair glue. If it is harder, or stiffer, it could be ABS, and can be welded, too. However, I prefer to glue ABS. I use a horseshoe rasp to make filings and make a paste with ABS cement. Apply it to a roughed-up area and build it up thick. I even put a little stainless or bronze wool in the second or third coat. I burned out several Harbor Freight welders before I bought one from Urethane Supply. I buy my PE and ABS rods from them, too. I ended up buying a Seelye welder. It paid for itself. You can cut a piece off and put it in water. PE floats in water. ABS sinks. Use a bit of soap to kill the surface tension to get an accurate sink or float. There is a way to burn a sliver and the flame and smoke will tell you what is what, but I don't remember for sure, anymore. You could certainly teach yourself by buying a rod of each and burning the end. . 84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered | |||
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