Still looking for info on how long other air coaches hold air. Thanks. Dale

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DASH, my coach will hold air for 3-4 days or more.
i don't have all of the air power you have though! my gauges usually read 115 lbs. and 125 lbs. when fully compressed.

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mike foster
83-35' regency 8.2 detroit towing 98 cherokee classic 4x4

Mike thanks, I must have a fairly large leak, cause just hours, say 8-10 and mine is at ZERO. I will find it, or maybe a couple. Thanks Dale

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Dale,

My coach is full air like yours. I had a leak and fixed it this summer. It was loud enough to easily trace. I now have a very small leak somewhere, but too small to hear the air escaping. My pressure now holds for 2-3 days. In a full rebuild of pressure from empty tanks, it takes about 6-8 minutes to get up to operating pressure. until such time, nothing works, including the accelerator which is air operated.

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Bill & Georgene Goodwin
92 Regency 36ft
300hp Cummins
Gillig Chassis




[This message has been edited by goodwinw (edited February 19, 2004).]

[This message has been edited by goodwinw (edited February 19, 2004).]

[This message has been edited by goodwinw (edited February 20, 2004).]

Dale, I don't know about your setup, but my Breakaway would lose all air pressure within 3 to 4 hours...sometimes less. I hated that problem for the obvious noise implication in the mornings, plus the safety issue was a concern (Our neighbor in a campground caught on fire one day right after we pulled in. I considered us lucky to escape since we still had enough air pressure that time).

In tracing down the problem, it turned out that there are (were) two Ford vacuum generators on my rig. One was for the cruise control; other was for the dash heat & A/C control. Both bleed air pressure to the outside, generating vacuum via a venturi and have a built-in control which turns it on whenever there is less than 15" of vacuum in the controlled circuit. There was a noticeable hiss whenever either of these generators were active.

I replaced both of them by obtaining an "electric vacuum pump for diesel motorhomes" which I ordered from ACME Air in Goshen. I provided a vacuum line to interconnect the two systems (Cruise & A/C). Now my air pressure holds for several days so I can head out instantly. Hope this is of some help to you.

Hank, thank you very much. This is very good info. Where were the gen's, and did you leave in place and just hooked into the two lines. Does that make sense? Dale

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Dash:I like to hear my Barth running,and other folks R.V. running too.If I wanted Quite time I would just stay home.All R.V. lot are small and close together in all the Park.10:00 to 7:00 are Quite time in the Park,and I don't leave before 7:00.When in a Park I run my fan in the Barth or the S.O.B.,and the fan keep the noise out.That the fan on the a/c.I wouldn't worry about the noise if I was you.I got to dump the air on my air ride before putting down the jacks,my barth brakes will stay up for a day or so.

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Jay&Shelby 95 Regency 34ft. 300 hp.

Dale,
No...I removed both of the vacuum generators...sorry I can't send you a
picture of them 'cause we're wintering in the Rio Grande Valley and the old
parts are at home.

They look something like a vacuum-switching solenoid, except no electric
connections. Four ports...bottom is 1/4"NPT female. It screws onto an
air manifold and provides the air pressure. Higher up and around the side
are three other ports. 1)No connection - free air exhaust (venturi output).
This is where your air tank contentsr leave the building; 2) Vacuum output
...small rubber hose connects to vacuum tank; 3) Vacuum sense. Return from
the vacuum tank, causes the venturi to switch on when vacuum drops below 15"

The one which supplied the vacuum for the A/C was mounted in the front, on the
driver's side, easy access through the front grill. It was screwed into the
air pressure manifold which supplied air for dash pressure gages, front brakes
and utility air outlet. The one for the cruise control was mounted on the
engine's air pump (right next to the injection pump on my Cummins). I replaced
each of them with a 1/4" NPT cap; then ran a new vacuum line from rear to front
and mounted the pump in the rear (since it makes a small amount of noise).

BTW: Note that when I first start up I have plenty of air pressure, but vacuum
must build for a few minutes. Therefore, my A/C goes to defrost and I have no
cruise control for (approx) the first three minutes. This doesn't bother me
at all...I can move immediately and rarely need cruise control that quickly.

Dale Smith is still having some problems with his leaking air:

Hello, our Barth is total air, and that means even the wipers are air. The air system does have a leak somewhere that I have not been able to find. It loses all its air over a 24 hpur period which means that before I can pull out of a campground Site the engine needs to run approx. 5 - 6 minutes while building air. I had a neighbor upset with me because of such a few weeks back over the exhaust. I was wondering if since I have three quick male air fittings in the right front outside compartment why I couldn't hook up a small 110V air compressor and back fill the system. I have tons of space in the compartment, and this would mean I would not have to let the engine idle and upset my neighbors. Any reason I could not do such? Yes I understand I need to locate the leak, but even so I would guess that I will never get the system to hold air for a week or so. HELP. Dale

I would install Schrader valves in line at any port in the system. You can hook up a 120 volt air compressor to refill and because its a Schrader valve you can fill your tires without changing anything. Hook the Schrader valve or hose to an open port in an airtank and run the hose into a compartment.

Almost all fire companies with airbrakes on there rig has a hose that keeps there air pressure up. If there is a fire waiting 5 minutes to recharge your air would be a problem. The reality is all air systems start to lose air eventually.

I have put air Schrader valves on several rigs that park in residential neighborhoods because the truck drivers don't want to irritate there neighbors.

If you are looking for a place to hook up your hose try your governor on the compressor. There are always open ports there. Do not use one of the middle ports as these are to unload your airdryer and to turn off your compressor. The one port by itself is for an air vent. Do not use that one. Use the three ports farthest away from the black or blue cap (or the vent) if its still on there or if it fell off then you would see a set screw with a nut.

1/8 pipe thread with a tire (Schrader) valve is all that you need, or you can "Tee" off of the air valves that were mentioned and put a Schrader valve in that. Backfeeding an air system is no problem.


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http://www.truckroadservice.com/

[This message has been edited by Bill (edited August 05, 2004).]

Had three leaks in our Barth,all of the leaks was in the metal 90% elbows coupling.Air will stay up a week in our Barth now.If you are trying to air up our Barth from a outside air comp.the key must be on for the air bags to take air!We use soapy water to find the leaks!

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Jay&Shelby 95 Regency 34ft. 300 hp.

[This message has been edited by bubbiebarth2 (edited August 05, 2004).]

I have found leaks using leak detector solution made for checking gas lines, leaks that did not show up with the conventional soap solution. This stuff can be bought in most hardware stores in the plumbing section.

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Gary & Edie
North Idaho
1988 28' P-30 454

quote:

Originally posted by Mark Estep:
Dale...on the heavy equipment I operate, when the mechanics are having a tough time finding an air leak, they use a liquid red dye in the air reservoir. It may take some time, if the leak is small, but eventually the dye makes itself seen.

Mark, that sounds interesting, and could help me with my tag bag leaks. My NAPA counter guy is unaware of that product. Got any more info?

Bill I use a solution which works pretty good its called DETEK instant leak detector
safe non-flammable made by U. S. GULF CORP.
All plumbing shops should stock this stuff.

Ralph Glover

Thanks, Ralph. I'll try that next. I have used a leak detector fluid we use for Oxygen systems on airplanes, but no luck so far on my super slow tag bag leaks. Maybe they are just old, tired and porous.