Have A/C condensate leaking inside when operating my DuoTherm unit during very humid weather. Have checked the roof seal and the drains around unit bottom--no dirt or blockage. If I put the coach slightly off-level, it does not leak inside. Have caulked all seams in sheet metal ducting to no avail. Any ideas?

does it drip on high?

I also have that problem, although only on my rear unit. Interestingly, the water built up in the area that the touch screen control panel is, and caused it to blow the fuse on the AC controller board inside the roof unit (again) (see other post on this) I cleaned up the touch screen control board, replaced the fuse, and drilled a small hole under the touch screen control panel, so any water that did get there would not do that again. I'll be interested in the reason for the excess condensate inside the unit. Good luck.

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On the road.

89 Barth Regal 32
Runs like a Deere
New Hampshire

quote:

Originally posted by Jack:
I'll be interested in the reason for the excess condensate inside the unit.

I can't speak to individual cases, but I have experienced this in high temp/humidity. The moisture-laden air is cooled below its dew point, and water forms.

I found that running the fan on high caused increases the evaporation rate, causing the condensate to evaporate instead of dripping or even freezing up on the evaporator coil.

Give it a try and tell.

When I am in a high humidity situation I get a little moisture forming on the bottom center of the plastic housing. If I get a drip it is only a drop at a time, never been a problems. But boy does it pour down the side of the coach....

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Thanks you guys for the replies! To answer some of the questions--YES, it still does it with the A/C & fan running on high and YES, the condensate in high humidity is a lot and NO, it is not just a drop or two--the rear unit has soaked the bedding and mattress when left unattended. I now find that I have to cover the bed with plastic sheeting and towels or not run the AC. Interesting that if I adjust the levelers to give a a sideways pitch, it doesn't drip! Any help you can supply/suggest would be appreciated.

quote:

Originally posted by chast:
Interesting that if I adjust the levelers to give a a sideways pitch, it doesn't drip!

There is the possibility that when you tilt he coach, the water runs into the ceiling and down the walls. Is the ceiling plywood spongy around the AC?

There is also the possibility that the normal outside condensate is getting inside, and runs away when you tilt it. I know you checked it, but leaks can be insidious and devilishly hard to find. I am not there, but it might be time to remove the AC and really check and seal the curb flashing and roof.

Boy does this hit a nerve. On my boat the PO had installed a Coleman unit in place of the fwd hatch. It looked like a wart but at least he had not cut a hole in the bulkhead and installed a window unit. It cooled wonderfully so it remained until last year.
Occasionally it would leak into the cabin giving us a major COLD wet spot on the bed.
When this happened I would go thru the removal of sheet metal, clean coils, drains etc. using squirt bottles and pipe cleaners until everything was pristine then I would reassemble and restart the unit. Usually this resolved the problem for a few years until the muddobbers and cottonwoods and other creepy crawleys caused the problem to rear up again.
Last year I went thru the drill twice to no avail! I did not mention that each time this project is done there are more sheet metal screws that must be replaced due to rust or that each time it is done there are more scratches on my arms than would result from shaving a cat.
My solution was to remove the unit and install a regular marine unit that has a water heat exchanger and drips into the bilge so the condensate just sinks the boat if left unaddressed. The bed will be dry until that point.
This option not being a possibility I suggest the following; check the caulk seal between/around the unit and the roof, make sure the pan drain holes are open thru that seal, remove the cover and make sure the cold coil mount has drains to the outside and that they are open.
Remember the only location for condensation to form is on the cold coil. This coil is in contact with the room air and is the area that will become guilty of wetting the bed. The airflow velocity thru the coil will not ,should not, be high enough to carry water away from the coil. The supports generally will have a tray that can hold a little water and will have a drain hole to the outside. Usually the fan is pulling a suction thru the coil so there will be a slight resistance to the pan draining when the fan is running but this should be on the order of 0.1 to 0.2" of water if the filter and coil are clean, hence an additional reason to clean filters and coils.
Long answer possibly no answer but an execise never the less.
Best of luck, you might need it on this one,
Tim

Forgot to mention, the pipe cleaners I keep aboard are of different sizes. Get them from craft store. Found them while trying to be pleasant while my wife was taking foreverrrr to find nothing. They have them in sizes ranging from regular to nearly two feet, in all manner of diameters and best of all in lots of colors.
Want to clean out that window track you can't really reach? Need to get in behind that gismo and poke that drain open? Put a little oil back where you can only see with a mirror?
Tim