We have an Energenius 3200G power converter under our bed along with something called a "Power Breaker" mounted on top of it. Beside it is a regular looking breaker box. The "Power Breaker" has NO actual breakers on it? Just a row of button - like things that you can't push?? Behind all this is what is called a "Power Switch Electric Generator - Shoreline Automatic Transfer Switch". At least thats what it says on the front.
The Energenius gives us 3200 watts of AC power from the coach batteries as well as charging them when on genny or plugged in. The humming sound appears to come from the "Energenius" since it stops as soon as I unplug the shore line. It also drops in volume when the Energenius shows only shore power and has finished charging the coach batts.
Since it is under the bed it is impossible to leave the coach plugged and try to sleep.
Could some of our electrical wizards help this dolt out with some opinions on what needs to be done. We have a few weeks 'til the daughter's wedding and want to get away for a while.
Everything else in te house electrical dept seems to be good.
Thanks.
Don ... 1990 Regency Cummins/Spartan

"Just a row of button - like things that you can't push??"

When one "trips" you'll be able to push it; an electrical malfunction causes the (black button in a nickel surround?) button to spring outward. Reset consists of pushing it back in.

"It also drops in volume when the Energenius shows only shore power and has finished charging the coach batts."

It will hum when it is charging the batteries. Mine isn't under the bed - it is a foot away. We are used to it and only notice it when it kicks in at odd, quiet times. You will quickly become used to it and never hear it;after all, it is a hum. Consider it "white sound" which enhances your slumber.

What you may expect: the transfer switch will "click" -loudly- whenever you have a power outage; sometimes it will chatter if the outage is not immediate. Mine is under the bed, and we ALWAYS KNOW WHEN THE SHORE POWER IS DROPPING OUT!. The first time you're awakened by this device you'll be panicked, because it is a loud, unfamiliar noise.

The hum is from the step-down transformer, and the cause is windings that are loose. I trick I learned from a Lionel repair guy is to access the transformer and soak the coils with thin cyano-acrylate glue ("Super Glue"). This should cure the problem.

A transformer of that size may take over an ounce, so I'd suggest getting Pacer or Goldberg Thin CA Glue, as it's be much cheaper (and better) than Super Glue.

Cyanoacrylates can have a tendancy to get brittle with age and heat in such an application. They are all over the map re heat resistance, and seldom specify. Much of them is sold by repackagers, so, even if you know what you are getting, it will change.

I have had more success with Glyptal, a product designed and sold for that purpose. Electronics stores or Eastwood have it.

Also, a general tightening-up of fasteners can improve a noisy transformer-based device.

Glyptal may even be better. The Pacer and Goldberg products are designed to be used in hi-temp apps, and also to not become brittle, so I'd not dismiss them.

No, I wouldn't dismiss them. CG stuff has always been good for my model stuff.

Professionally, I used CA from Eastman, then Permabond, then Loctite, and had generally positive results. But, now and then, a failure. So did others. Still, we used it, because it was so fast. I can't tell you how much stuff I patched together by wrapping it with nylon thread and saturating with 914. Later, when a part was available, the repair was found to be stronger than OEM. But, often, heat and age took their toll. But, perhaps this memory is from farther back than I think. It is good to hear that the product is improving.

I have never seen Glyptal fail. And.....nothing panics a cockpit faster than the smell of overheated Glyptal. I often wondered if it was designed to make that odor when a part got too hot and needed attention.

Thanks so much for this thread! The converter in my old Barth was so loud I could hear it out side the coach. I picked up a tube of Jet model glue and soaked the coils in the transformer. It has made a HUGE difference in the sound. I offer this advise to anyone else that desires to do this. First, the converter cover was held on by pop rivets, when drilling them out take care to account for all of them or they could end up part of the circuitry. Second, remove the converter from the coach and apply glue in the great out doors! The fumes are really nasty. I even used a fan to blow across the unit as I was soaking the coils with glue.

I look forward to installing the convertor tonight and I plan on using different isolators between the unit and floor. It previously had pads of carpet as isolators, I plan on using rubber from the sidewall of a tire. Also, I find the cabinet is really warm, has anyone vented there cabinet to the outside of the coach? I was thinking about putting in a small duct and fan to vent the cabinet to the space behind the refigerator...

Thanks again!

Hi Doug
The loud converter hum I complained about has lessened a lot since the new coach batts were installed. The old ones were bad and must have been the cause.
The hum is very low and audible at night in bed when it's quiet, but we can live with it.
Don

quote:

Originally posted by Bywaters:
Thanks so much for this thread! The converter in my old Barth was so loud I could hear it out side the coach. I picked up a tube of Jet model glue and soaked the coils in the transformer. It has made a HUGE difference in the sound. I offer this advise to anyone else that desires to do this. First, the converter cover was held on by pop rivets, when drilling them out take care to account for all of them or they could end up part of the circuitry. Second, remove the converter from the coach and apply glue in the great out doors! The fumes are really nasty. I even used a fan to blow across the unit as I was soaking the coils with glue.

I look forward to installing the convertor tonight and I plan on using different isolators between the unit and floor. It previously had pads of carpet as isolators, I plan on using rubber from the sidewall of a tire. Also, I find the cabinet is really warm, has anyone vented there cabinet to the outside of the coach? I was thinking about putting in a small duct and fan to vent the cabinet to the space behind the refigerator...

Thanks again!

Contemporary converters have cooling fans. I'd vent to the coach interior, however, not the outside - critters can find the warmth enticing. Anyway, if I were doing it, I'd place a fan near a cool air source (grille, etc.) and place it to blow across the converter's cooling fins. A 120mm computer fan with double ball-bearings moves a lot of air with minimal noise. When I was building computers, most of my fans came from Crazy PC or Plycon.

Sound isolation kits are also available.

Thanks, I believe I will buy a 120v fan and line voltage thermostat and do just what you said. I was able to omit another wire nut on my re-install I also found that the wire connection to the fuse block was held on by a very loose rivet. There were signs of over heating. It probably would be a good maintenance idea to check the 12v fuse blocks for hot connections periodically, especially on old coaches.
Thanks again.

On my Barth , when I'm connected to shore power, there is a fan that starts at regular intervals in the converter. It then stops after about 10-15 seconds. Rusty indicates that it is a feature of newer ( contempory) converter. Can I assume that my converter was replaced at some point of time or does 1990 is considered contempory as far as converters are concerned?

There are two types of converter - single output and dual output. Based on the vintage, yours could be either. Either would have a fan, but the single-output is the current type.

This thread has a description of the difference.