My steps won't go back in. They were working a few days ago. I can hear a clicking noise like a solenoid. I have read some of the other posts on this subject and I still can't figure out what is wrong with mine. I tried putting a wrench on the square type nut to try and turn it and it seems locked up. I feel like installing a set of mechanical steps like my old 72 Barth. They always worked unless I run into something with them. If I have buy new steps, where do you think is a good place to look? Dennis

Dennis, there are two ways to cheat.

1. Open up the stupid two-half connector to the motor and use 12 volts to extend or retract the steps, depending on polarity. This, of course presumes that the motor works and the mechanism doesn't bind.

2. Remove the cotter pin and pull out the pin on the arm, and move the steps yourself.

These things are sensitive to lubrication, mechanical binding and voltage. When all is well, 8 flashlight batteries will lower the step, and will almost raise them. I like a dry lube, like dri slide, as it doesn't collect grit. The slightest damage will cause misalignment and binding. I removed my rivets and put in shoulder bolts so I can disassemble and straighten my links as needed.

When and if the box fails, I am going to run a DPDT switch directly to the motor to raise and lower the steps.

If you find the motor to be bad, I have a number for a Ford window motor that should work.

[This message has been edited by bill h (edited March 13, 2005).]

Bill H: The Ford window motor you mentioned in the above post, can it be used on most Barth models?.....carl (I would like the #)

THE TOY 88 33' Regal SE Coach #3448

Thanks Bill. I have been spraying LPS on the pin to get the darn thing out. It is really rusted in there. It sure seems like if it isn't one thing it's another. By the way, I had my Q=jet rebuilt in So. Cal by the outfit you mentioned and the motor runs great. I hope to have the exhust manifolds changed out soon. Dennis

quote:

Originally posted by Dennis:
Thanks Bill. I have been spraying LPS on the pin to get the darn thing out. It is really rusted in there. It sure seems like if it isn't one thing it's another. By the way, I had my Q=jet rebuilt in So. Cal by the outfit you mentioned and the motor runs great. I hope to have the exhust manifolds changed out soon. Dennis

Dennis, I am not sure what grade of LPS you are using, but my fave is PB Blaster. Try to rotate the pin, too. Glad the carb guys did you well.

quote:

Originally posted by carlflack:
Bill H: The Ford window motor you mentioned in the above post, can it be used on most Barth models?.....carl (I would like the #)

THE TOY 88 33' Regal SE Coach #3448

Carl, the motor number is for most Kwikee steps, which I believe most Barths used. I did it some time ago on a SOB, but my Barth is the same.

The motor is a standard Ford power window motor. Take your old one for a matchup to Autozone.

The brand was "Siemens"

The ID tag listed the following numbers:
59720-20
121899


The Autozone number was WL43003, but they are often confused there.

Hey Dennis,

Last year my steps did about the same thing. I took the whole thing apart lube everything and it still did not work. Then (ok guys I know now) I checked for a good ground and checked the other connectors from the sealed white box. I found a lose connection in the wiring and a bad ground.
After that steps worked fairly good except sometime you had to flip the switch several times to get them to retract.
Several days ago the steps started to act up again by having to flip the switch a lot of times to get the steps all the way up or all the way down when the coach is not running. When the coach is running the steps will go all the way down but then you have to flip the switch several times to make sure the steps are full up.
I think the best idea is like Bill H said and that is to install a dpdt wall switch.
Thats what I am thinking of doing plus installing a red light(stairs down) and a green light(stairs up) for safety reasons.

Jim

I took the expensive way out.. Bought new steps. Kiwkee Series 39. Cost about $230 as I recall from ppl. Bolt in replacement - all holes lined up - took about 30 minutes. Also the door switch was intermittent - took longer to find that switch cost - $11.00

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Russell and Donna
1988 33' Barth Regal
Gibson Exhaust, Bilsteins, ipd sway bar

quote:

Originally posted by kc_rusty:
Also the door switch was intermittent - took longer to find that switch cost - $11.00

Rusty, where did you find the door switch?

Obvious statement #1.

We had an orthopedic physician buy a coach, (or did he sell, can't remember) He told me that one of the biggest causes of broken hips in older people in the southwest is falling out of coaches where the steps don't go down.

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Don't go to visit the Grand Cannon if you DON'T LOOK WHERE YOUR STEPPING. It seems the tiny little 2" step that just kills my back. Dale, when flying LOOK OUT THE WINDSHIELD, when walking LOOK BEFORE YOU STEP. Sounds easy doesn't it?

"when walking LOOK BEFORE YOU STEP. Sounds easy doesn't it? "

Obviously you don't wear bifocals.

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"You are what you drive" - Clint Eastwood

I purchased a dpdt rectangular switch at a marine surplus store for $5. and installed it in one of the blanked off openings on the dash next to the generator switch. I snaked a wire down to the compartment under the drivers seat and hooked to a fuse block on the rear wall of the compartment. The switch was originally used to raise & lower an outboard, and had up and down arrows. Works great!

If your step has been damaged, it is often a good idea to dismantle it and straighten things out or even weld.The rivets can be replaced with shoulder bolts. I got mine from a local machine shop supplier, but they can also be bought from McMaster Carr. The pn is 91259A617. Use AN960-516L washers between the bars.