Below is a post I entered in CATRV forum. Afterwards, is their response.. Any other input would be greatly appreciated.

I'm hoping some can help me. I'm not sure if I'm at the right place, but here goes.... I have a '87 Barth, 3208T, which is not being used at this time. However, I do start it up and check on everything to make sure it's ok.. I went out this afternoon to do just that, and I found that my dashboard gauges, ignition light and transmission
light indicator, were in operating mode. The key was in the off position!!!! I went straight to the solenoids, and one of them was extremely hot! I took my meter to see what the voltage was, and where the black, white and red wires were attached, it read 13V. The blue wire (which is the ground)had nothing. I disconnected the red wire, along with the #8 (or #10) copper wire, that was attached with the white wire, and now its cooling down..(I did the same to the other one,too) At this point, my dash gauges & ignition light are no longer working, but the transmission indicator is still lit. So, I had to disconnect the batteries.. Oh, and one more thing. Before disconnecting the batteries, I was still able to turn it over. So, my question is, why did everything come on with the key being off?? Also, How come all
the wires in the solenoid have juice in them except the ground?
> Thanks for any input and solution..
> Bud Hinote


Electric circuits are difficult to troubleshoot without the schematics.

But, start with the wire from ignition switch to ignition solenoid.

Was it hot only when the key was on (proper) or was it hot all the time (likely indicating a bad ignition switch or wiring problem)?

On a standard ignition solenoid, you have a large lug from battery,and large lug that goes to dash, engine, etc. Also one or two small lugs/wires. If one it is the hot from the ignition switch. If two,the second is the ground. If no ground wire, it grounds through the body/attachment of the solenoid itself.

Without knowing how the coach is wired, there is no way for us to comment on why the transmission indicator and engine start were still
active with the ignition solenoid turned off. I would see if someone on the Barth forum has a wiring schematic for your coach.

If a solenoid is starting to pit, often a light, sharp wrap with a
screwdriver plastic handle will free them up-- at least temporarily.

Another place to look with a unit that has been stored is for rodent damage. They LOVE to eat the insulation off wires. This can cause all kinds of "interesting" symptoms.

Brett Wolfe

I agree with the theory of a suspect ignition switch. The fact you got 13VDC at all three connections (one should be the hot wire from the ignition switch) would indicate a bad switch.

But, IMHO, another possibility is that the solenoid is stuck. With your lengthy jumper wire (if you have none, now's the time to make one of about 35') test the solenoid by touching battery hot to the solenoid coil terminal (probably where the red wire connects). It should click.

BTW, just starting a diesel periodically and letting it idle is not a good idea. If you do want to run the engine, drive the coach at least 10 miles.