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Ladder Maintenance and Repair
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First Month Member
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 11/13
posted
Short version:

Drill drain holes in your horizontal ladder tubes. That includes the bottom tip. Same for the top end, where condensation can collect.

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Medium version:

Same thing, but also spray your favorite corrosion-busting or corrosion-preventing nostrum inside.

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Long version:

While moving my ladder from passenger side to driver side to accommodate more solar panels, I discovered my ladder had a bolt that was tight, but not fully pulled down, leaving a gap under the head. It would not tighten. Or come out. It turned out some idiot had used too long a bolt, and the threads bottomed out on the unthreaded shank.

The bolts thread in to a steel insert that grabs the inside of the horizontal tube.



The problem is that it is steel, and so is the bolt. When water gets in and can't get out, the result is a rust farm, and the bolts can seize to the insert. Attempts at removal will rotate the insert inside the tube, with the teeth damaging the inside. Or the threaded center of the insert will spin in its hole in the spider disks.



As seen above, the rust can eat away at the 1/4" bolt until it has an effective diameter of 1/16", and breaks off when attempts are made to tighten or loosen it. Or breaks when you are laddering. Frowner



After a lot of aggravation, I was able to remove the two frozen bolt/inserts. I made up new inserts by boring and threading 1-inch lengths of 7/8 aluminum bar. They were pressed in and secured by two 6-32 machine screws. Those who do not have access to a lathe can do it on a drill press using a 7/8" OD washer to start the hole on center. AN970-10 works well. Free to supporting members.





The countersink you see makes it easier to get the bolt started.

The ladder was reassembled with stainless bolts and anti-seize, and two drainage holes were drilled in the underside of each tube. I considered trying to seal water out, but decided to just be sure it couldn't collect and sit. Maybe I will use a little ProFlex on the joints. Being clear, it is pretty inconspicuous.


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84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered
 
Posts: 6169 | Location: AZ Central Highlands | Member Since: 01-09-2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 03/22
posted Hide Post
Great info--

My ladder has fallen victim to this as well, unfortunately, the ladder needs to be replaced because I didn't notice this and that star insert corroded so bad that it actually ate right thru the aluminum ladder side bars at the base, it no longer is attached on one side.

I have the material to make a new ladder but it will have to wait for other projects to be finished first.


Ed
94 30' Breakaway #3864
30-BS-6B side entry
New Cummins 5.9L, 375+ HP
Allison 6 speed
Spartan chassis
K9DVC
Tankless water heater
 
Posts: 2178 | Location: Los Gatos, CA | Member Since: 12-08-2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
First Month Member
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 11/13
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by MWrench:


I have the material to make a new ladder


Do you need to make a whole new ladder or just the horizontal tubes?

If you are going to make a whole new ladder, give some thought to security. Thieves enter an RV by dropping a small or very flexible accomplice through a roof vent. Ladders also make it easy to steal solar panels.

I am considering making my steps or perhaps the bottom 2/3 of the ladder removable. Or maybe have the steps drop down and be secured by security hardware. But a really athletic thief could still muscle himself up to the roof. Also, an RV ladder parked in a driveway or on the street is a magnet for kids, so there is the "attractive nuisance" aspect of civil liability to consider.


.

84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered
 
Posts: 6169 | Location: AZ Central Highlands | Member Since: 01-09-2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 03/22
posted Hide Post
I am making an entire new ladder including the horizontal tubes. That is a good idea to make the bottom part removable or drop down. I am fortunate to be able to park the coach on my property and it is backup up against a 8' fence that separates the property from the neighbor's, it is also well lite at night. Still, a small ladder up to the fence would allow almost anyone to climb to the top.

I guess one never can be to careful!!


Ed
94 30' Breakaway #3864
30-BS-6B side entry
New Cummins 5.9L, 375+ HP
Allison 6 speed
Spartan chassis
K9DVC
Tankless water heater
 
Posts: 2178 | Location: Los Gatos, CA | Member Since: 12-08-2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
The Old Man and No Barth
posted Hide Post
FWIW, the first & only RV break-in I ever had was in a FWD GMC parked in a locked storage compound. The thief came in over the fence, gently pried one of the curved side windows from its frame, considerately leaned the glass against the tire without breaking it, & removed everything removable that was of any value. Aside from the mess he created by scattering everything he didn't take all over the RV, he didn't even get stuff dirty.

If you have to meet a thief, I guess that's the kind to meet. I do know of one break-in through the roof vent, down on the Mexican border.
 
Posts: 1421 | Location: Upper Left Corner | Member Since: 10-28-2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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