Seems like 454 high engine temps are an issue for lots of folks, Barth & SOB owners alike..

This weekend, while backflushing the cooling system, cleaning the radiator exterior, etc, I happened to think:

....several websites talk about the significant difference in thermal absorption & transfer potential between straight water and various water/antifreeze ratios...straight water always coming out ahead......So,

For summer months, how about running just straight distilled water, some Water Wetter and maybe some anti-rust/pump lube additive?

'Course, it would require some strict discipline for seasonal adjustments, but in my case, I can see at least five Maryland months where I'm totally safe from any ambient temps that would be threatening....

...Seems like an easy & simple way to pick up some additional heat transfer capability....In fact, too simple - What am I missing here?

I don't know about that, Lee... I have a Detroit Diesel technical paper (booklet, actually) about coolants and they mention that thermal transfer is better with a glycol solution... and certainly that the anti-corrosion and lube additives are essential to a healthy cooling system. The boil over point is also considerable higher than with straight H2O. The alloys in many engine parts are, in my mind, just not worth risking when seeking a marginal increase in efficiency. I'd say an auxillary fan or lager radiator or both would yield much better gains without risking the system. Plus, have you ever gone camping in a mountainous area whrere the evening temp drops to well below freezing? I have. I know most engine-system water wouldn't freeze, but, I've seen GM blocks crack in the thin wall BETWEEN the freeze-plugs... without popping them out!

BTW... I get my distilled water for my cooling system and batteries from the de-humidifier in my basement... pure... saved in a special jerry can...

You're probably right Duteman.....There has to be other factors I haven't considered...I was basing my thoughts in part on this info from a website:
- - - - - - - - - - - -

Coolants
Red Line Water Wetter is a surfactant - reduces the surface tension of the water. Allows the water to more intimately contact metal. When the water boils, the surfactant makes smaller bubbles, which makes it easier for the bubble to be pushed away from the metal surface, and allow more water to contact the metal.

Water Wetter has a high Ph, but also has silicates, so it can be used in aluminium radiators. However, if left for a long time, the silicates are depleted, and damage will occur. The liquid versions of Water Wetter do not have phosphates.

Discovered by Roy Howell. Some engineers were begging Roy to develop a corrosion inhibitor to add to straight water for racers, since racers rarely use AntiFreeze. He did some work, developed Water Wetter simply as a corrosion inhibitor, and gave it to Huffaker. Huffaker immediately noticed lower operating temperatures, and Roy started to investigate why.

You *can* cool an engine too much. The ideal temperature for coolant is 190 F.

AntiFreeze has 1/4 heat transfer capability of straight water.

Temperature recordings at block water jacket exit, after stabilizing:


Water Anti-Freeze Water Wetter Temperature (F)
50% 50% No 228
50% 50% Yes 220
100% 0% No 220
100% 0% Yes 202
- - - - - - - - - -

If I could get a 26 degree drop in coolant just by using straight water, Wetter & an anti-rust/pump lube, it would be worth the need to baby-sit ambient temps in the spring & fall........

I won't sleep until Billh weighs in on this!

P.S. Great source for water! Thanks- I'll use it!

You guys have covered it pretty well, but here is my dos centavos:

My two favorite places for 40 years have been the Colorado river and the Eastern slope of the Sierras. Each requires a arduous climb, Chriaco and Sherwin grade. Sherwin is not as steep as Chriaco, but is longer.

As soon as Water Wetter hit the market, I tried it and never looked back. I forget the numbers, but it worked on whatever vehicle I first tried it on. I have used it ever since, without any before and after testing. When I crewed on a circle track racer, it made a difference there.

Presently, I am curious about:

http://lubegard.com/automotive/radiator_koolit.html

and may try it. They have a whoop-de-do chart that makes it look better than Water Wetter. My input on it will not be worth much, however, as I don't have a problem now, anyway. It is not as available as WW, though.

As to freezing, Roy might remember when we ran summer and winter coolants, changing every spring and fall. When I plan to go to a freezing area, out come the jugs. (The headaches from the sixties Red Mountain days are gone, but the jugs remain)

I should add here that the first line of defense is a good cooling system. I am a walking commercial for US Radiator's Desert Cooler and either Moroso's or Edelbrock's high flow water pumps. (Trailer Life did a before and after comparison on the Grapevine with the Edelbrock a while back) At the minimum, your water pump should have a cast impeller, not stamped. (I learned that the hard way) My 502 puts out a lot of power and has siamese bores, but never gets hot. My fan clutch kicks in and out on really long hot hills with a heavy toad or boat, but that is it.

I believe I have posted on cooling air flow and an air dam or spoiler.

Here is another interesting product:

http://www.royalpurple.com/prodsa/prpice.html

I judt got back from a trip across the state of Washington. I went over four mountain passes of elevation's of 4000 feet and 5000 feet. I put in a small bottle of Red Line Water Wetter, maybe I should of put in two. May one bottle wasn't enough because my engine temps went up to 230 degress. My transmission temps went up to 220 degress. The out side temps were around 90 degress which didn't help. I guess I'll try the headers next. Maybe a high flow water pump with a high flow thermostat.