As everyone probably knows by now I have a new toy an 86 28foot Regal...I have scheduled a stay at a local shop after the first of the year to get started on the right foot and am going to have the following stuff checked and replaced am I missing anything
All belts and hoses replaced
Check and replace if needed all secondary hoses Like vacuum stuff mainly
Replace engine oil and filter (would you recommend synthetic or regular oil???)
replace antifreeze/Coolant
replace transmission fluid and clean filter
Check brakes and brake cylinders check brake fluid... Replace if needed..
Check exhaust system
check and replace oil in generator
Tune engine new air cleaner and what ever else is needed (Seems to be idling high)
Fix dash lights

What am I missing that I should have him check/replace so I start off on the right foot..

I am going to build a shelter (3 sided) for the vehicle to keep it out of the weather..Originally it will be a gravel floor and this summer I'll put in a cement floor...That should keep it dry and protected from the elements....

Here is another question.. as the locks and openers for the storage compartments are so low and probably get dirty and wet do you spay anything into the locks like wd40 or something to keep them lubed and coated???
That would also go for the locks on the engine area...
Thanks for any insight you have .. Being a newbie I would like to get started on the right foot.. It has also been recommended to me to buy a spare tire and have it mounted or stored in the vehicle as I am having a carrier made for the back (I took off the box on the rear) to hold my crates grooming table and xpens i thought I would mount a tire as well.. your thoughts
Take care and thanks for the help
John Reilly
Centerville Ohio


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John Reilly
Big Times Kennel
Centerville Ohio

LLooks like you are going about it right. I know you will enjoy your coach.

Don't forget the tires. Even though they may look good, if they are much over 7 years old they may be ready to cause you unexpected roadside delays. I know bill h regularly changes his 19.5" tires.... beside the road...., in the dark...., in the rain...., all by himself...... but wresteling bears is not my idea of fun.

Gary
28' 1988

[This message has been edited by Grizzlygiant (edited December 16, 2004).]

OK, in order:

When doing hoses, don't overlook the short hose from the intake manifold to the water pump.

Replace the rubber fuel lines on the right side of the engine compartment.

Replace all vacuum hoses with NAPA silicone hoses.


My recommendation is Gates belts. Some other brands are narrower and will ride a little low and slip.

My rec on oil is Mobil 1, but there will be other reccys on that. It comes in new Corvettes, among others.

My rec on the oil filter is the AC P35L, pn 25013454. Detailed file to follow.

On air filter, a Baldwin with its dedicated foam/dacron wrap.

Be sure fan clutch works correctly. In short, it should roar for the first block or so, then remain quiet until the water gets above 210 degrees.

On trans, drop the pan and install a drain plug. B&M has one that installs with no welding. Then you can change your fluid often. Use synthetic fluid. Use a temp gage with the sender installed in the drain. You may need a cooler.

Replace brake fluid with a good high heat fluid. I use the blue stuff from Germany. Be sure the front calipers are free and lubed. Pack the front axle bearings with Mobil 1 syntehtic. It takes the heat better.

On exhaust, make sure the heat riser is free.

Remove distributor cap and inspect advance weights for red death and lubrication.

Replace plug wires with good silicone wires.

DO NOT use WD40 on locks. It will form a gummy mess and bind the tmpbler pins.

Spare tires are a gamble. They take up space and are an expense until you need one. Then they will save you time and money. What are the odds? Who knows?

Use Red Line fuel system cleaner. Replace the filter underneath near the entry door. Replace the little filter inside the carb inlet.

As Gary says, check the tires. Lots of folks say 5 to 7 years on the outside. I say it depends on usage. A tire driven weekly or monthly will last far longer than 7 years. I know of tires that have lasted 10 years and were finally replaced out of fear, showing no cracking or any other signs of any problem. Tires need to flex, build up heat and "bloom" to last. Sitting does not allow this. In addition, sitting causes a constant deformation to just one spot, hastening the deterioration of the rubber and sidewall cord. Weigh the coach at each corner and inflate to the chart for your tire. On a trip, check inflation daily. At every stop, feel the sidewalls with your hand. A tire that feels hotter is probably low. Or use a tire billy like the truckers. Do not use flexible valve extensions on the inside rear.

Bill You mentioned not to used wd40 got any suggestions or should i just not worry abot them... In Ohio wwe do have alot of salt use in the winter months..Not that I would be out there driving in those months but it takes a couple of good spring rains before the salt is of the roads.. I just thought I should lubricate and protect with something....
I have added you suggestions ro my list..I know thins first bill is going to be a biggie but I want to get off on the right foot...
On the tire thing it was suggested to carry one as the repair places that come out generally do not have the size you need and therefore having one for them to change is half the problem solved...
Thanks again for you help I am sure I'll have more questions as I explorer the different parts of my new toy..
John Reilly
Centerville Ohio

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John Reilly
Big Times Kennel
Centerville Ohio

I use a dry spray lubricant made for locks. It is made by Bergstrom of Sandstrom or a name like that. Some locksmiths sell it, but they would rather you had lock trouble, so many don't sell it.

A bit of tape over the key slot can protect from dirt, too.

We use "Lock Ease". It comes in a can liked WD40 and we got it at Ace Hardware. It worked great and freed up all the mechanisms.

Here is another question.. as the locks and openers for the storage compartments are so low and probably get dirty and wet do you spay anything into the locks like wd40 or something to keep them lubed and coated???
That would also go for the locks on the engine area...

I wouldn't be surprised if "Lock Ease" is just plain old silicone spray under a different name. Pick up a spray can of silicone spray to keep you locks working freely.