Took the Breakaway out for a test drive after the engine seal replacement and frame repair. WELL----Something else broke.

Driving along on Highway 1 near Big Sur, going up a hill I noticed that the engine fan noise suddenly decreased. Going along at 38 MPH in 3rd, the fan noise is there. I looked at all the gauges and the only other clue was the voltage was a bit on the low side. I thought I had lost a fan belt but it was fairly new. Shortly the fan noise increased again so I relaxed a bit, NOT FOR LONG! I noticed the engine temp climbing so I got off at the next turn out to check things out.

Lots of coolant around the fan and front of the engine. The coolant on the belt was causing it to slip, hence the reduction of noise (and of course speed). Checked the rad and yup, quite low. Added water (lots) and thought OK now find out where it is getting out. Had Wifey start the engine and saw the water pump pulley doing a dance I had never EVER seen a water pump pulley do before. It was wobbling very badly!

Crap, failed water pump, No cell coverage, No internet,--so I made a command decision to fill the rad full, only set the rad cap on but not tight, so pressure wouldn't build and go 7 miles to Gorda CA, General store there and maybe get some help. I did not see engine temperatures above 190 so I thought it was OK to go and if I saw the temp spike again pull out again and refill. Rather nerve racking 7 miles but we made it and the engine temp never went over 185.

Called Cummins West and got the process of getting a water pump over night. Gorda General store let us stay over night but did charge us $20.

Fortunately I had all the tools including a BIG 1/2 inch breaker bar needed to open up the belt tensioner. After we confirmed the pump was on it's way, started to remove the defective pump. It wasn't as bad job, just dirty with all the coolant and grease around that area.

When I got the pump out, I could not believe what I saw! This pump was installed in 2009 and had less than 70K miles on it. I replaced the original with over 110K miles just because some Cummins forum members recommended to get the newer design pump, Hmmmmm



This is what this pump looked like when I replaced the old on!



This is the difference between the 17 year old pump and the latest design.



Well the over night wasn't quite as good as I hoped but we did get the pump 3:00 PM yesterday afternoon. took all of 20 minutes to install the new pump and refill the rad. I did install another fan belt because the NEW ONE, was badly overheated and stretched, I have always carried a spare fan belt. 4 hours later we were safely home.

I have NO IDEA how that pump could have circulated enough water to keep that engine cool but I never saw any temp rise after the first one which was due to low coolant. I was very easy on the throttle and kept the engine RPM low. Should I have driven it? 20-20 hind sight says NO. I could have easily overheated the engine.

I had an early warning sign, I was adding water about a cup a day for the last year, but could never find the leak, that was one of the top things to do when I returned from this shake down run!

I WAS VERY LUCKY!

Wow
Glad you had tools with you.
What did you get for $20??

20 minutes? Replacing the water pump on my 6.5L TD takes about 2 hours...it has ~17 bolts - the whole front engine cover has to come off to get at the bolts on the backside. And if you don't get the special sealant right, coolant has direct access to the crankcase...

Glad your's turned out OK!

Yes, 20 minutes to re-install. Total time to remove and replace it less than 1 hour.

1. Drain coolant. ( I added a drain to the cross tube to the radiator years ago)

2. Release the belt tensioner and remove the belt. Just slide it off the pulley and move belt out of the way

3. Remove three 10 mm bolts (10 mm heads) and swing the alternator over to the right. (not really required but make it a lot easier to access the pump bolts.)

4. Remove 2 13 mm bolts (13 mm heads) and remove the water pump. (yes only 2 bolts hold in the water pump)

Reverse above to install pump.

If one does not have a long 1/2 inch breaker bar to release the belt tensioner it can be difficult and is a bit dangerous. I have a tool that I fashioned to attach to the breaker bar and hold the tensioner full out. Keeps the tensioner out of the way during the procedure and also helps with belt removal and install. Not required but makes the job easier.

Surprising that Cummins would use a stamped impeller.

I can only speak for GM gas engines, but the stamped-steel impellers have never been as reliable as the cast iron ones. Nor do they cool as well. It used to be that the factory pumps had cast impellers and the aftermarket or rebuilds had the sheet metal ones.

All the high performance ones have cast impellers.

Ed, what size socket do you use on the tensioner?
Jim

The tensioner has a provision for a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar to be used as a lever to release the tension on the belt. It is located on the front face of the arm of the tensioner near the pulley.

Thanks Ed. Guess what you mean is the 1/2" square thing on the end of the breaker fits into somekind of thing on the tensioner. Sorry, I'm a little challenged.
Jim

Not all are 1/2". Mine is 3/8". I do carry a long handled 1/2" with a reducer to 3/8"

quote:

Originally posted by Jim and Tere:
Thanks Ed. Guess what you mean is the 1/2" square thing on the end of the breaker fits into somekind of thing on the tensioner. Sorry, I'm a little challenged.
Jim

There's a square socket (hole) on the tensioner arm. My Ford 6.9L has similar holes for tensioning V-belts.

Not to ask too stupid a question but do they make a heavy duty water pump?

You might consider rebuilding the pump. It has a standard bearing and seal and the casting is not likely to need replacement. Requires a bearing press to do it right.

Ed, did handling feel more secure with the repaired frame?

quote:

Originally posted by Tom K:
You might consider rebuilding the pump. It has a standard bearing and seal and the casting is not likely to need replacement. Requires a bearing press to do it right.

More than just the bearings and seal, the impeller is in pieces. Parts are not available and for the price of a new pump, not worth the hassle. I was on the road away when this happened.

quote:

Originally posted by Mogan David:
Ed, did handling feel more secure with the repaired frame?

Major improvement! I am half way thru the write up and pictures to be posted later. FINALLY very little tail wagging, steering input is translated to firm response.