Forgot to get the model number of the Kohler generator before parking her where I can't get the generator door open enough to see. Would like to order a new oil filter for it so I can change the oil when I do the engine and fill the tank with fresh fuel and stabul. Anybody know off hand what filter it would take and even better how much oil and what weight to get (guessing SAE 30_ 86 25" Regal 454.

Well, mine is the reverse, '68, not '86 has no filter, is a 4 banger 1800rpm, between 2 and 3 thousand hours. It does recommend 30w but that may be era and tech related. If you are familiar with specific stuff about the genny,you can probably pick it out from a picture line-up in a search. I have found much variability in support/attitude by Kohler locations. This may have been affected by a significant financial settlement over CO deaths from a marine genny, I was there to get the fix which wasn't tailored for all units covered by the settlement. That may have influenced their attitude.
Good luck
Tim

Yeah 30 SAE is a non deter. oil so it lets nasty stuff drop to the bottom not get pushed back and caught in the filter (best if there isn't a filter) from my understanding which is why most small engines w/o filters call for it. I'll see what I can figure out by the look. Thought it was worth asking.

Thanks!

SAE 30 is a viscosity. The American Petroleum Institute bestows performance designations such as API SJ. Non-detergent oils are generally unacceptable - even damaging - for four-stroke engines, having neither the antifoaming and antiscuffing additives (among many others) needed.

Detergency is especially important for engines without filters, as contaminants are held in suspension and drained with the oil.

I went into more detail here: https://www.barthmobile.com/eve...903955877#8903955877

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
SAE 30 is a viscosity. The American Petroleum Institute bestows performance designations such as API SJ. Non-detergent oils are generally unacceptable - even damaging - for four-stroke engines, having neither the antifoaming and antiscuffing additives (among many others) needed.

Detergency is especially important for engines without filters, as contaminants are held in suspension and drained with the oil.

Please educate us Rusty, why is non-detergent oil in the owners manual of older Lawn Mower, and similar other small Internal Combustion Engines?

Thread drift, sorry.

It is all about the history of additives… a convoluted story of chemist's attempts to improve natural stocks. I know of only a few chapters. Viscosity, detergency, extreme pressure were just a few.

I think some of the early additives were not ashless and their combustion products were abrasive. In engines that burned much oil they saw more wear.

In the 80's the engine folks shyed away from multi-vis additives (not a detergent issue) like used in STP because they were not shear stable and over time they broke down into abrasive residues. Modern additives are shear stable.

Long story indeed. Rusty knows way, way more indeed.

As for generator oil filters…

I had a Kohler genset until I swapped it for the Honda. I gave it to a friend as well as the manual. I will check with him...

I'm back… Not sure if you have the same generator (7KW) but my 86 Kohler called for # 52 050 02. There are many common cross references to it.

quote:

Originally posted by Kevin:

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
SAE 30 is a viscosity. The American Petroleum Institute bestows performance designations such as API SJ. Non-detergent oils are generally unacceptable - even damaging - for four-stroke engines, having neither the antifoaming and antiscuffing additives (among many others) needed.

Detergency is especially important for engines without filters, as contaminants are held in suspension and drained with the oil.

Please educate us Rusty, why is non-detergent oil in the owners manual of older Lawn Mower, and similar other small Internal Combustion Engines?

Exactly, from my limited understanding of engines without filters you are better off letting the metal "sink to the bottom" then to have it pushed around causing more damage until the fluid is again changed. With the additive it is meant to get it to the filter which traps the nasty stuff. I have my non detergent waiting to go into my mower and pressure washer in the next couple weeks already. I meant to put SAE 30 API SJ but my mind works faster than my fingers.

So anyways, what should I be putting in it and is there a filter?

The metal will sink to the bottom regardless of the oil's detergency, but there are many other contaminants best kept in suspension.

So from what I read (comprehend?) it is best to use detergent single viscosity oil in small (12 hp or less))engines??

My experience is from looking inside during overhaul. Engines that have used good quality multivis detergent oil and run at normal temps will last a long time. When you finally tear them down, they are shiny and clean inside.

When I was a kid (pre detergent) we saw lots of engines so full of crud you could scoop it out with your hands. One reason some old saws did not like detergent oil, if you ran it in an already badly gunked up engine, it might dislodge enough crud to plug the engine.

Diesel oils call for higher detergency due to the particulate nature of their combustion products, some ends up in oil and is fairly harmless if it stays suspended and gets drained out regularly.

Good grade multivis auto oil works fine. Synthetic if you want to spoil them.

Okay so I pulled it out today to have a look and it is a 4.5 CKM210-rv. Can't find a filter on it anywhere. Saw an old post about the same model asking the same question that wasn't answered so I'm guessing it probably doesn't have a filter. It is a 2 cylinder set up as someone that thread said they made 1 and 2 cylinder 4.5ck210-rv