Hi My gas gage stopped working and I need to know where to go to get it fixed? A mechanic or an electrical place.Thanks

The usual cause is a bad sender, which means the tank has to be dropped to access it.

The gauge receives power from the instrument panel. If the other gauges are working, then you are probably OK here.

Wires from the gauge go the the fuel tank. Inside the fuel tank is the float, which is attached to the fuel sender (a variable resistor, like a volume control). The gauge wire attaches to the sender wire (through the top of the tank) and the gauge measures the current going through the fuel sender to indicate the fuel level.

If the float is soggy or stuck... reads E all the time.

Check for a wiring connector going into the top of the tank (usually near where the fuel lines come out) This is often a real PITA to get to... There are connections for the gauge and the fuel tank ground wire. Make sure connections and ground are OK. Open connections usually indicate EMPTY. This has been my #1 culprit.. (Shorted to ground usually shows FULL.)

Could be the wiring between tank and gauge. Sometimes easier to run a long temporary bypass to troubleshoot. (Hook straight from tank to gauge)

You didn't say if you had multiple tanks, if so the fuel tank selector switch also switches from one tank sender to the other, another possible problem
area. Good luck...

Agree with Steve on checking grounds.

The GM gauge reads E with the signal wire grounded and F with 90 ohms or more resistance.

This wire can be intercepted anywhere between the tank sender and the gauge for trouble shooting.

The wire from the indicator can be cut. The gauge should read F. When touched to ground, the gauge should read E. If this is the case, the problem is a bad sender or its wiring. I have sometimes fixed the problem by doing a good cleanup on the wire terminal or by providing a good clean ground. Some bad senders can be repaired and even improved.

HERE is a post that might help.

Thanks Bill, I had the gauge action reversed. Wasn't sure what chassis Barth used on the Class C.

quote:

Originally posted by Steve VW:
Thanks Bill, I had the gauge action reversed. Wasn't sure what chassis Barth used on the Class C.

Well, for driveway trouble shooting, it really makes no difference. As long as the gauge goes between E and F when the signal wire is grounded and ungrounded, the test is useful. My post was lifted from my files and not meant to be all that technical.