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I just replaced my city water regulator and some of the internal plumbing. The components available now are the compression valves that push on to the polybutylene pipe. Problem is they still leak slightly when hooked to shore water. I have to use my water tank and pump in the meantime. Anyone know a remedy for this? Some kind of sealant to use with the compression fitting? Or a different connection altogether, and a source for these componenets. Jack 1988 Barth Regal Jack Brand 1988 31 ft Barth Regal Ford 460 John Deere Chassis | |||
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3/11 |
Check this site: http://www.plumbingworld.com/repairfittings.html Their fitting convert your connections to compression rather than swage as they came originally. These would hold to the max pressure of the pipe itself. 1993 32' Regency Wide Body, 4 speed Allison Trans, Front Entry door, Diamond Plate aluminum roof & 1981 Euro 22' w Chevy 350 engine and TH 400 tranny | |||
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Glassnose Aficionado 2/09 |
Something that may help and should always be used when hooking to unfamiliar water supplies is a pressure regulator. Mine hooks up between the hose and the coach, but some are built into the city water intake. Cost about 13 bucks. 79 Barth Classic | |||
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1st month member |
When all else fails you can try Rectorseal thread sealant. 1999 Airstream Safari 25' 2007 Toyota Tundra 1987 Yamaha YSR toads | |||
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"When all else fails you can try Rectorseal thread sealant" Ed's right; I use Rectorseal #5 myself. Aaand...Rectorseal is always easily removable, unlike normal "pipe dope". More: "Teflon tape" is a joke. Pieces often come off and flow downstream plugging pipes and pump impellers - I fefuse to use it. "You are what you drive" - Clint Eastwood | ||||
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The Old Man and No Barth |
Plastic hardware store fittings I have used, have a threaded collar that slips over the cut end of the polybutylene tubing before you connect the fitting. The fitting itself has a tapered end with a barb, that has to be pushed firmly into the tubing before you thread the collar onto it. Properly installed, & hand tightened firmly, these fittings won't leak as the threaded collar compresses the plastic tubing onto the taper. On fittings that are buried after they're installed, I've given them a tweak with the pliers, just to be sure, & I've always tested them before I buttoned things up. Ordinary compression fittings that use a collar that slips over the tubing, & don't have a taper that plugs into the tubing, will leak as the soft plastic tubing compresses when they're tightened. I'd post a picture of the kind of fitting I use if I knew how to do it, but your hardware store has a full assortment of valves, connectors, elbows, adapters, etc., to fulfill your every need. | |||
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Thanks for your helpful replies everyone. Happy New Year!! Jack Brand 1988 31 ft Barth Regal Ford 460 John Deere Chassis | ||||
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"First Year of Inception" Membership Club |
Jack, Olroy is right on, the only way to stop your leaks is to use the tubing inserts. Ralph Ralph Glover 1976 27' Barth P-30 454 1998 Tracker Toad | |||
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Thanks Ralph. A trip to the hardware store is in the works Jack Brand 1988 31 ft Barth Regal Ford 460 John Deere Chassis | ||||
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