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Motor aid furnaces
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Hi B.our Barth is a 95 Regency 34ft.The switch by the center light switch is the motor aid heater in water comp.The two switchs or by the drivers head.This motor aid heater blow out air second vent under the sofa, the key switch must be on.The switch over the enter door is for Elect heater in water comp.It is control by a Thermostat.

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br2409
 
Posts: 61 | Location: Harriman,Tn.usa | Member Since: 09-22-2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 4/08
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Misliltiny, Thanks for the info. I tried to start up my electric heater (Dayton - round with center fan) in the water compartment, but it would not operate. It was cold, but not freezing. At what temp will the heater turn on? Where is the thermostat?

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William B. Goodwin
 
Posts: 515 | Location: West Springfield, Massachusetts, United States | Member Since: 08-31-2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi Goodwin:My Dayton heater said it is 240 volts,my Barth is wired for for 220 volts,your Dayton heater if like my will need 220 volts before it will work at any temp.I check my heater last winter by open the door of water comp. and closing the door heater worked and cut off after the door was close.Didn't check volts or look for thermostat.If your Barth is wired for 220 volts,and the heater will not work I will do some check on my Barth for you.

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br2409
 
Posts: 61 | Location: Harriman,Tn.usa | Member Since: 09-22-2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 4/08
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My Dayton is definitely 120 volt. I'm not sure anything in my regency is 220 volt. Your wiring would be unusual to be 220 volt. Are you sure? I really don't mean to doubt you, it just seems unorthodox. I'll be checking out my electrical system more closely this weekend. It's good to be able to trade conversation on these issues with others who have Barths

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William B. Goodwin
 
Posts: 515 | Location: West Springfield, Massachusetts, United States | Member Since: 08-31-2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi Goodwin;I'm sure my Barth and all 50 amps motor home are 240 volts or 220 volts that I've seen.All 30 amps motor home I've seen are 110 vols or 120 volts.My Barth has a 50 amps 240 volts main breaker.I wired from the house to the Barth 220 volts or 240 volts.My [sob]roadtrek is a 30 amps 110 or 120 volts motor home.

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br2409
 
Posts: 61 | Location: Harriman,Tn.usa | Member Since: 09-22-2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Bill H, where are you?? Tell us the real skinny. I can't imagine anything within the Barth operating on 220, but I do not know the ins and outs of the electical workings. HELP.....
 
Posts: 629 | Location: INDY,IN USA | Member Since: 06-30-2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Read my post "electric hook up at home" dated 9-13-03, and read Bill h's two comments on the subject of 220. This should answer a lot of questions Dale
 
Posts: 629 | Location: INDY,IN USA | Member Since: 06-30-2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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missliltiny, You are correct about the house or shore power connection being 240 volts/ 50 amps. In the coach however, the 240 feed is typically converted to 120 volts going into the circuit breakers. Barth being custom has surely done this differently in some very unique circumstances. I would guess that the 1991 Regency in the Barth Coaches For Sale forum that is "all electric" with the diesel engine in front has 240 volts going to the stove and electric heat.

240 volts would not be really practical since many campgrounds only supply 120 volts in a 30 amp connection. this would not serve to operate any of the 240 volt appliances.

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William B. Goodwin
 
Posts: 515 | Location: West Springfield, Massachusetts, United States | Member Since: 08-31-2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi Goodwin;I'm not a expert on motor home or don't know everything I need to.I have enjoy talking about the Barth motor home.The only thing in our Barth that said it is a 240 volts deal is the Dayton heater,and the 50 amp main breaker.Our Dayton heater on the cover wire mess has 240 volts 1250 watts.Our generator output is 240 volts.I sure hope Barth didn't put something in my home that is mark wrong.I fool around with motor home sometime buy and sell.When it get cold if I was you and my heater didn't work,I would power the Barth up with the generator just for for the heck of it and check the heater.GOOD LUCK;JAY

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br2409
 
Posts: 61 | Location: Harriman,Tn.usa | Member Since: 09-22-2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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"Bill H, where are you?? Tell us the real skinny. I can't imagine anything within the Barth operating on 220, but I do not know the ins and outs of the electical workings. HELP..... "

...........................................

Dale, I've been staying out of this, as I don't have any of the equipment being discussed. Plus, we never plug in.

As for the 220, when your Barth is plugged in to a 50 amp service, there is indeed 240 volts available. Looking at the receptacle, the flat slots on each side will supply 240 volts between them. So, yes, there can be 240 volts in the coach. The 240 volts is not actually converted to 120 volts in the coach, though. The voltage from either one of the flat side slots to neutral is 120 volts, so no conversion is necessary.

There is a bootleg way to get 240 volts from a 30 amp park pole, too (sometimes), but only 20 amps max.
 
Posts: 6169 | Location: AZ Central Highlands | Member Since: 01-09-2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Bill H. I understand that 220 does come into the coach, but unless you have a total electric coach that needs 220 for the oven, furnace, hot water heater and who knows what, it is then split and the outlets etc are 120. I know my unit does not have any equipment that requires 220 or are there any outlets that are 220. Isn't this correct? Sorry to bug you. Dale
 
Posts: 629 | Location: INDY,IN USA | Member Since: 06-30-2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I took my Dayton Elect heater Model 4e154 mark 240v 60h 1250w apart,and the 240v marking is wrong.The thermostat model 18300 is set to provide power to the heater below 38.The thermostat is the brown rect that the heater plug into.I now know more about the Dayton than I did before,and will not take the marking on anything for fact without check first again.

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br2409
 
Posts: 61 | Location: Harriman,Tn.usa | Member Since: 09-22-2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Just look at what you have done Dave....27 post on this subject, and from what I can tell this is a RECORD. A GOOD TEACHER got a lot of response. Very nice. Speaking for myself I can say I have learned so much and looking forward to learning a bunch more. Thanks Dave. Dale
 
Posts: 629 | Location: INDY,IN USA | Member Since: 06-30-2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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P.S. Of course thanks to all the members that posted great information too. Dale
 
Posts: 629 | Location: INDY,IN USA | Member Since: 06-30-2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Dale, I plan on putting a Y adapter on the input of my water pump and add a hose to suck anti-freeze right out of the bottle. I was just out there and couldn't tell which was the input and which was the output. In other words. I get no credit what so ever.

I will tell you this, we have received a ton of info from various participants over the last three years, but I have to say the last couple months has brought the mother load of valuable and accurate info. I personally have learned enough to BS almost anyone but Bill H. on CAT 3208 or 3208T engines. I also know that a "wet sleeve" isn't not just what I have after cleaning the filter on our back yard fountain. A new Barth owner signing on here will be lucky indeed.
 
Posts: 1658 | Location: Eden Prairie, MN 55346 USA | Member Since: 01-01-2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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