Screen Removal Bargman L-300 Door Handle brakes Satellite Fuel Tank Fire Extinguishers Roof Antenna Tech Talk Forum Shortcut Motor Oil Window Generators headlights batteries Radiator AC Unit Grab Handle Wiper Blades Wiper Blades Door Locks Door Locks Door Locks Door Locks Rims Front Shocks Rear Shocks Front Tires Oil Filter Steps Roof Vent Awning Propane Tank Mirror Info Clearance Lights Clearance Lights Clearance Lights Clearance Lights Clearance Lights Spartan Chassis Gillig Chassis Freightliner Chassis P-32 Chassis MCC Chassis
    Forums    Tech Talk    exterior lights and horn
Go to...
Start A New Topic
Search
Notify
Tools
Reply To This Topic
  
exterior lights and horn
 Login now/Join our community
 
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 10/11
posted
Help!!!!! Someone, anyone, everyone. My 1989 Chevy P30 Regal has failed me. No exterior lights, headlight, tail-light, hazard light, even my fog lights won't work, also the horn is silent. Driving me nuts. I have checked the current from the Isolator to the fuse box and through the fire wall, but lose it there. No current to the light switch or the horn relay. I have checked the grounds and fuses, have replaced all relays, still nothing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Ken Robbins
 
Posts: 7 | Location: garland,tx | Member Since: 03-13-2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 2/16
Captain Doom
Picture of Rusty
posted Hide Post
Those devices should be connected to an always-hot bus.

While you may have checked and replaced all the fuses, there is one frequently overlooked: The fusible link. This is a likely a nondescript metal rectangle with rounded edges, about 1½" long, ¾" wide, with two terminal studs. It will be in the hot side of the battery, and before any other devices.

It would shut down all the things you mentioned if it blew.


Rusty


MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP; built-to-order by Peninsular Engines:  Hi-pop injectors, gear-driven camshaft, non-waste-gated, high-output turbo, 18:1 pistons.  Fuel economy increased by 15-20%, power, WOW!"StaRV II"

'94 28' Breakaway: MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP

Nelson and Chester, not-spoiled Golden Retrievers

Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think we're not.
In either case the idea is quite staggering.
- Arthur C. Clarke

It was a woman who drove me to drink, and I've been searching thirty years to find her and thank her - W. C. Fields
 
Posts: 7734 | Location: Brooker, FL, USA | Member Since: 09-08-2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of BarthBluesmobile
posted Hide Post
First take the isolator out of the circuit. Have the fat + wires from the battery, the starter, and the alternator all connected. That removes the isolator and its grounding as one of the unknowns.

Get an ohmmeter and a length of wire and see if the +BAT contact in the fuse box has contact with the junction of those fat wires I just noted.

If not, then perhaps there was a frayed wire that got burned out or a fusible link that fused.

How did this happen? And, does the starter engage when you turn the key?

I'll have more ideas after I sleep.
Matt


1987 Barth 27' P32 Chassis
Former State Police Command Post
Chevrolet 454
Weiand Manifold, Crane Cam, Gibson Exhaust
 
Posts: 560 | Location: Massachusetts | Member Since: 07-28-2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
  Powered by Social Strata  
 

    Forums    Tech Talk    exterior lights and horn

This website is dedicated to the Barth Custom Coach, their owners and those who admire this American made, quality crafted, motor coach.
We are committed to the history, preservation and restoration of the Barth Custom Coach.