Our 85 Regal had an assortment of rubber and steel fuel lines. First of all, the metal tubes sticking out of the fuel tank and the fuel pump, are 3/8"OD and about 9/32"ID. They are connected to the metal fuel lines by rubber tubing that is 3/8"ID on one end and 1/2" ID on the other end. This is because GM used 3/8" ID metal tubing which has a 1/2" OD. We are going to replace all that metal tubing with 3/8" ID marine grade rubber hose. There will be one run between the fuel pump and the first fuel filter that has such severe bends that we can't use the 3/8" rubber hose. There we will use 3/8"OD aluminum. Two questions:
--Is there a reason that GM used 3/8"ID steel tubing to feed a fuel pump that has a 5/32" ID inlet?
--Is there a problem using the aluminum tubing? It is much easier to bend and I can do it myself.
Please excuse the long post
Jim

Something else has come up. On the steel tubing, there's a raised area near each end that acts to help seal the hose as you slide the rubber hose on the end. I don't know how to do this. Also, can the aluminum tubing take the pressure of a metal clamp? It seems that most of the aluminum tubing I've seen has flared ends put on for brass screw type fittings as in race cars and such. Really need some input. Tere's chomping at the bit to get this finished.

I would think if you needed some type of flaring that NAPA could help you out. You shouldn't have to buy one of these.

Harbor Freight sells a multi-size tubing bender for around $5.00 and a flaring set for about $10.00. With these tools it is easy to bend and flair steel lines.

why not steel tubing ? I don't like aluminum where there are rub points.Standard 3/8 tubing with a bender and a flaring tool is easy to use and does not take any strength. It holds up for a long time.you can even get tubing insulation to cover the pipe you can have couplings,elbows 45deg 0r 90 or 60deg also it is fun to make funny bends.It also will hold up to metal clamps.
lenny
PS used them in my trade
I hate red wires

We produce our Cobras using all stainless steel tubing for two reasons: abrasion is eliminated as a problem and there is no corrosion. Double flares add an extra level of sealing to the compression joint and they are not that hard to make. From our experience we don't recommend anything from Harbor Freight - we thought "how could a cheap hammer be bad?" Well the head came off after a few blows. If you are careful taking off the old lines you can take them to a brake shop and they can use them as patterns and you can match the old. Eliminate as many joints as possible and use rubber only between the frame and the engine mounted fuel pump. To mount the lines use aircraft clamps with neoprene rubber insulators (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ap/clamps.html) and stainless screws. Stainless steel tubing can be purchased in rolls from tube vendors (http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=312&step=2&top_cat=0). If you want to do it once and forget it this would be the final fix.

Common sense goes a long way in the selection of tools, especially cheap tools. I've had the heads of many expensive hammers come off in use, but the Harbor Freight flaring tool has stood up for over 10 years of regular use just as well as our more expensive ones.

You have better luck that we do. But here is another option for replacing fuel and brake lines: http://www.classictube.com/contactFleet.asp
You give them the make, model and other data and they make the set and ship to you.

you will have to think when you bend steel tubing and are strait they come in 6 or 8 foot lengths.It is not that hard
lenny