Rusty,
I came across this as I was trying to determine what a 6.5L TD was. Another source of parts and info for you.

6.5L diesel specialists


Cooling System/Fan Upgrade Combo Kit and Heater Hose/Tube Push-Lock Connector
Rating: 5 of 5 stars

If its cooling a 6.5 L you are worried about, buy Walt's fabulous Cooling System/Fan Upgrade Combo Kit as well as the Heater Hose/Tube Push-Lock Connector as after its all installed 180 degrees is as hot as the engine will get. I installed these on my '96 C2500 SWB flatbed with duallies [via an adapter kit] just before I towed a 40-foot enclosed car transporter 900 miles on a hot day across Canada. I was truckin' along between 65 and 75 mph most of the way and the temprature guage never got above 180 degrees. The trip back with the transporter full was a bit slower [5000 lbs more will do that] and again the temprature guage never went above 180 degrees even on uphills on the New York State Thruway. Installation: PLAN ON 2 VERY FULL DAYS; and do not work too long on either day. Go SLOW and BE CAREFUL. Take photos of the engine BEFORE taking it apart. Steam clean or power wash the engine [underneath too!!] and engine compartment [especially around the front end of the engine where the lower radiator hose attaches] BEFORE you start; it will make the job MUCH easier. Have a friend help you, especially with the ##*@@!!! lower radiator hose. Get the right tools to remove a radiator hose!!!!! Make sure you have all the right tools, especially for removing the old cross-over and installing the new one; you WILL need a universal. Before you start, obtain the pages on replacing the water pump from the factory service manual; these combined with Walt's instructions will make the job much easier. Also get the pages on taking off the grill and other parts around it; DO NOT reef hard on the plastic, it breaks easily [voice of experience]. If you have all the screws, bolts and other fasteners out/off, the grill and other parts around it all will come right off. While you have this area apart, clean the radiator, oil cooler and transmission fluid cooler; this will take about an hour, but is well worth it; wait until you see the trash and dirt in there! Get the best stainless steel radiator clamps you can find; the ones with springs are so much better than just the plain ones; at this point a couple of dollars more makes no difference. Do not cheap out on the installation. Be careful of the sensor on the top of the intake manifold while you work, in fact, I suggest you remove it [plug the hole!!] as then you won't break it and have to spend another $25 bucks at the Chevy/GM dealer you did not plan to [voice of experience here]. DO NOT BUY AN AFTER MARKET SENSOR!!!! You will not beleive the amount of air the fan in this combo kit moves. Don't skimp and not buy it, get the whole kit, it is well worth the money. Think of this as insurance against having to buy a rebuilt engine. My opinon is if you only do one upgrade to your 6.5 engine, this is the one to do. The engine already had a 4-inch exhaust system, a modified factory airbox and a highflow filter, and an intercooler. Guages include boost, EGT, oil temp, trans temp, rearend temp. I did not use any of the tuner stuff, as I wanted more power as well as to increase the dependability and longevity of the engine. Soon to be added will be a larger tranmission pan; a larger rear-end cover along with a radiator with fan for cooling it, fans on the transmission and oil coolers. I sought Walt's advice before I started and his advice was clear and honest. I do not think you can go wrong doing business with Walt.

What type transmission is in a rear drive coach?
I put the 18:1's in my truck and they seem to start almost as well as the original when cold. No difference when warm.
Are you modifying the glow controller?

Doug, VA

Bill N Y, the water table will be no problem (I've attached a photo of the "river" behind my house).



The transmission and torque converter are relatively new. I won't go to an overdrive transmission, as the Peninsular engines hit their best efficiency at the engine speeds I run (2500@60mph).

Barth_user, I'll transfer the high cap cooling pump and dual thermostats from the old engine. All the hoses are new, and the Torq-style clamps are all I use.

Doug, the transmission is a 4L80E; I won't be messing with the glow controller initially, but I anticipate putting in a manual override buttun, because when the engine's slightly warm, the plugs don't stay on long enough to satrt right away. There is in the works a mod to the controller (replacing a thermistor or adding a resistor) to allow longer duration glow when the engine's warmer, but I've not seen the final take on that.

quote:

The transmission and torque converter are relatively new. I won't go to an overdrive transmission, as the Peninsular engines hit their best efficiency at the engine speeds I run (2500@60mph).

Rusty, the 4L80E is already an overdrive transmission, 4th is really an overdrive ratio, For gas engines it is 0.75:1. not sure if the ratio is the same for diesel application but it is an overdrive ratio in fourth.

The 4L80E is the overdrive version of the 3 speed turbo 400 trans

HTH

What I meant to say was that I wouldn't go with any aftermarket overdrives...and I think the OD ratio is the same for the diesel.

OK, understood, I have never understood why some put a second overdrive unit behind the 4L80E, I have seen a few. sure you can split gears that way but a lot of money for ???

My SOB had a 454 with 4L80E and did a very good job, all things considered.

The final tally came in this afternoon, and the cost (long block +; only the alternator, A/C compressor, P/S pump and fan need to be added) will be a very-reasonable $8,500 delivered, especially since quality drop-in rebuilds were at the $7,900-$8,800 level.

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
The repair shop is going to dig a pit, tow the coach over it, and drop the engine straight down. While they've done dozens of diesels.....

So then, I guess they have a graveyard of sorts. Does each engine have its own grave marker, with its birth and death dates and miles traveled?

Will you visit the grave often?

Actually, it's more like Easter Island - carcasses arranged artistically on the surface...most of the time, they're dealing with cars and light trucks, pulled from the top.

I will shun the grave, for the old engine, to my way of thinking, committed suicide.

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
Actually, it's more like Easter Island - carcasses arranged artistically on the surface...

That certainly looks like Carhenge, except for the Hippie Influence.

But Mike Owen's tribute is far more restrained...

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:


But Mike Owen's tribute is far more restrained...

Whazzat?

What, not everyone knows that Mike Owens is going to install my engine?

To give a bit of the flavor of Mike's place, I went there today to take some photos of the exhaust manifolds so Peninsular Engines could be absolutely certain we'd have a match.

Mike's very conscious of security, so my parts were locked up. In the trunk of an '04 Honda Civic with front-end damage...

Well, after plenty of shuck-and-jive from Peninsular Engines (first stating the engine was done and shipping 11/17), it was actually done 11/27 - they screwed up the one done on 11/17 - wrong injector pump. Shipping company, contacted directly, said it was picked up that date, and was on the road to here. Actually, it languished on the carrier's dock until actual departure 12/01.

Well, the engine's at the installer's, and the old engine is out. I spent the day collecting parts - engine mounts were a piece of cake, but I had to go 50 miles to get exhaust manifold bolts...and I had to get three from a local industrial fastener jobber, as GM dealers didn't have enough.

Here's the new engine: