So I'm hoping to get around to a sticky front caliper in the next couple weeks. Got some questions.

1. How do I access the Master Cylinder to bleed (and figure I might as well flush the fluid while I'm there).
2. Can I just use the leveling jacks with some blocks under there to raise up the front enough to get the wheel off?
3. What caliper does it use (86 25ft Regal). Would like to order the replacement ahead of time so it is a day job but places like Rock Auto say things like this "with Brake Code JB7; GM Brake Codes are on the "Service Parts Identification" sticker". Where might this sticker be or anybody have an idea what I might have in there.
4. Recommendations on good strong pads?

Anything else you can think of that I should know.

Thanks!!!

quote:

Anything else you can think of that I should know.

You can use the leveling jacks to raise up your Barth. After it is raised up, place jack stands under the frame to support the coach. The leveling jacks could give away while you are working on or under the Barth with just leveling jacks. Remember to support your RIG!

Acces to MC is is a bit of a PITA. If you happen to have both engine covers off, it is easy from inside. Otherwise a long reach. You can remove left wheel, not bad from wheel well.

If your leveling jacks are mounted as mine were I would not use them. Mine were mounted in front of the frame and outboard. The PO must have used them aggressively and the bumper is now crooked due to bent support arm.

Use jacks under the frame.

Look here for brake work pictures, part numbers:

https://www.barthmobile.com/eve...413963477#5413963477

I'm not sure you have the same discs in back but I believe the fronts are the same. Use the best semi-metallic pads you can get.

I just finished repairing a sticking front brake caliper on my '89 Barth Regal on a Chevy P30 chassis. Yours is probably the same brake setup. My caliper was pinching on the rotor and I could barely turn the wheel hub with both hands. I had replaced the brake hoses about 3 years ago, but the caliper has 2 L-shaped grooves in it, and there was a lot of rust and dirt build up, and I think that was causing the caliper to bind.
First I loosened the lug nuts while the wheel was still on the ground, then I used the leveling jacks and a bottle jack under the frame to raise the wheel off the ground. Then make sure to use jack stands under the frame and wheel chocks under the rear wheels. Then remove the wheel, and on the back of the caliper there is a thin flat round screw about the size of a quarter with a recessed hex opening. The screw holds a locking key and a spring clip in place. Once you drive the key and the spring clip out, the caliper will come apart and you can see how everything works. I used a piece of 1/4 inch flat bar stock to drive the locking key out. There's a couple of good videos on Youtube describing how to remove the caliper. Once you watch the video , you'll understand how the caliper is put together. Just search under "how to remove front brake caliper on Chevy P30" Once I disassembled everything , I just wire brushed all the rust and dirt off, and applied a good coat of antisieze lubricant to all the moving parts, and reassembled it, and it works fine. You can spin the hub with 1 finger now. If you need anymore help , just PM me and I'll be glad to help if I can.

Thanks guys, yeah I have jack stands to put under while working. Just don't have a jack with that kind of weight but wanted to get the first project done while I figure out which one I'd like. I'm not expecting a ton of rust. Cali Barth for all but a year and everything was replaced 4 years ago. I was afraid I'd need to take the lf wheel off as I don't have a good place to work on both sides at the same time. I'm guessing it is just a JB7 set up, simple vac brakes right?

I think you have the (in)famous Hydroboost system. Rather than a vacuum assist master cylinder, GM uses a hydraulic boost system.

Hydraulic pressure is fed from the power steering pump to a small accumulator piston on the master cylinder. The piston stores some pressure after shutdown, but not much. The accumulator is visibly mounted on the side of the master cylinder.

The downside is that failure of the PS pump knocks out power steering and power brakes. Good argument for checking the PS belt frequently.

I see if I can find some more info.

Hydroboost

http://www.brakeandfrontend.co...ower-assist-systems/

I've had belts slip off or fail (6 times - 1 locked A/C compressor, 1 defective tensioner pulley, 4 due to defective crankshaft pulley*). I've had 2 P/S pumps shear shafts.

* The pulley is damped (at least on the 6.5L TD) and I didn't know that; the worn pulley wore out the tensioner bushing, allowing it to tilt. Belt slipped off when it got wet.

I'm getting pretty good at replacing the serpentine belt - can do it from the inside in 5 minutes - less time than is spent waiting for the engine to cool. I bought a long-handle wrench to keep in the engine storage compartment to contract the tensioner.

quote:

Originally posted by Steve VW:
I think you have the (in)famous Hydroboost system. Rather than a vacuum assist master cylinder, GM uses a hydraulic boost system.

Hydraulic pressure is fed from the power steering pump to a small accumulator piston on the master cylinder. The piston stores some pressure after shutdown, but not much. The accumulator is visibly mounted on the side of the master cylinder.

The downside is that failure of the PS pump knocks out power steering and power brakes. Good argument for checking the PS belt frequently.

I see if I can find some more info.

Yeah belts are gonna be my next question over the winter. Planning on doing a 2 month cross country trek this summer so I'm gonna want spares of the belts and rad hoses.

A quick search says that the JD9 is the hyrdraboost. Got a caliper and some pads on order. Don't quite understand how the pads cost more than the caliper though. Hoping to get to it next week and then have one last outing before winterization (which I know I will have a ton of questions about as well).

Similar problem on my mine...

At the risk of sounding like a broken record, I'd like to point out once again that calipers that don't want to release is often caused by rubber brake lines that have swelled shut on the inside. The boost forces fluid through but the backpressure isn't enough to force it back and release the brake. In my Chevy trucks and the Barth this has been the cause every time I've had this problem.

I had the same problem as Danny Z .
Bob

I had already replaced both front hoses and the rear center hose, and the caliper was still dragging on the left front rotor. The grooves where the outer caliper fits in had rust and gummed up grease and the spring clip was gunked up too. It' not always the hoses. When I have time, I'm going to pull both calipers off and rebuild them , turn the rotors, and install new pads.

I have a receipt for all the ruber hoses, pads, rotors, m.c. and calipers replaced in 2012. I highly doubt even a crappy rubber hose swelling in 4 years but have had plenty of remanned calipers fail in that same amount of time. Had they not been replaced I would be replacing them though simply because of their age.

Ya'll were spot on. Pulled the caliper today and put the new one on with new pads (the outer pad was off the backing plate and split in two as well). Went to bleed it and wasn't getting more than a few drops of fluid thru. Replaced the hose and the river came. Just got it back together now. Out for a spin tomorrow. Rotor has a few grooves but nothing horrible so I think the pad should bed in just fine. Curious how well it will stop and how much mileage will go up.