Went to the alignment shop today and discovered that when I had the alignment done in Denver, the shop entered "Alpine with Westport axle" into the computer. My Breakaway is an EC2242 with a Dana I 60 axle. It seems likely that the alignment specs the shop used were incorrect. Can anyone with a EC2242 with a Dana I 60 front axle tell me what the specs for camber, caster and toe in are supposed to be for our model? Apparently the alignment machine computers do not have the model description of the older Spartan chassis in them. Also, anyone who has gone through this with their Spartan chassis and found a combination that works would be a good place for me to start.

Caster: 5.50° +/- 0.50°
Camber: Non-adjustable; at rated load LH 0.50°, RH 0.25°, +/- 0.44°
Toe-in: .03", +/- .03"
Axle Squareness: Front and Rear +/- 0.25"
Pinion Angle: 7.00°

My experience with the Westport axle is toe in for Michelins is about what Rusty posted, BUT for Bridgestones, toe in is so much better at 0.187 total both wheels. My caster was 2-3 degrees from Spartan but I increased it to 6 degrees, again much better.

Be careful of toe specs because many specs are for each wheel not total, with a solid axle you can not really set each wheel individually only a combined for both wheels.

Camber is non adjustable, only by bending the axle which is NOT recommended! It is done but unless it is really out, don't mess with it.

According to the shop, my toe is is 10 degrees per wheel for a total of 20 degrees. In inches that would be .05585050" per wheel. I have Goodyear G670s 225/70/19.5 at 85#. Am thinking about increasing it to 15 degrees per wheel, which would be .08375" per wheel. Opinions?

10° is over 2½"; I don't think that's the right number. I would start by setting toe-in to 0"

I'm sorry Rusty, I meant .10 degrees which I think is .0558"

I'd still start at 0" and work from there. I'd not keep increasing toe-in until it's reset to spec and go from there.

quote:

toe in is so much better at 0.187 total both wheels

Ed, with a total of .187" both wheels, the conversion chart I use says that would be .167 degrees per wheel. Is that right based on your knowledge? reason I'm asking is that the shop that is going to check mine has a machine that only reads in degrees.

Frankly, I'd find another alignment shop - the customer shouldn't have to train the shop.

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
Frankly, I'd find another alignment shop - the customer shouldn't have to train the shop.

Maybe I'm showing my ignorance to say I always thought toe in (or out) was a DISTANCE relationship between the leading edge compared to the trailing edge -- not measured in degrees.

It is.

quote:

Frankly, I'd find another alignment shop

The pickins' in east TN are really slim. The one shop that is used by two of the main motor home dealers in Knoxville, when asked if they had the equipment to measure the king pin play told me that "I should go find another shop". They act like they're doing you a favor to work on your motor home around here.

Hey Jim: Please don't over think this, I would bet you do not have a king pin issue! Check your alignment of toe and also check the rear track bar.

Also check your tire pressures, if they are too high you will have wondering.

Yes most of the latest machines for alignment only use degrees but for trucks and heavy equipment they still use inches. There are many websites that will convert degrees to inches or inches to degrees.

IIRC, 225R70 tires have usually a 31.5 inch rolling diameter, 8R19.5 usually have a 33 inch rolling diameter.

I am at Mojave Mile race this weekend and after I get back I will do a detailed post of how to set toe along with pictures. it is NOT that complicated. Don't throw more money at this issue!

Checking king pin play is not too different from checking ball joint play. Jack the tire off the ground without compressing the spring then check for play/movement of the tire when rocking top to bottom. The good news is that with kingpins if you have play the tire won't leave the assembly.
An option if you only have a small amount of play with the kingpin is to remove it then peen the pin all the way around or have it knurled and press it back into the assembly. Best would be to have the new pin available when you drive the old one out.
I am sure there will be other, probably better following suggestions.
Tim

I replaced the kingpins in my EC2242 - they had teflon inserts that were worn out. I elected all-steel.

But Tim is absolutely right - checking kingpin wear ain't rocket science, and easier than ball joints. However, it takes a good touch to detect kingpin wear, and slight wear can cause problems amplified.