First time experience with 22.5 inch tires on a truck chassis.

MICHELIN X

XZA1

275 / 70 R 22.5

The COLD inflation MAX states:

Single 6945 lbs. 131 psi
Duel 6395 lbs. 123 psi

...is this what I should inflate to or is there another recommendation???

What is the best [most accurate] style of tire gauge for high pressure purposes and where do I get one???

quote:

Originally posted by Medic37:
First time experience with 22.5 inch tires on a truck chassis.

MICHELIN X

XZA1

275 / 70 R 22.5

The COLD inflation MAX states:

Single 6945 lbs. 131 psi
Duel 6395 lbs. 123 psi

...is this what I should inflate to or is there another recommendation???

First, get weighed at full travel weight at all four corners.

Than, go to:

http://www.michelinrvtires.com/michelinrvtires/hom_us.jsp

There is a wealth of good information there for all RV owners, regardless of brand preference or ownership.

quote:

Originally posted by Medic37:
What is the best [most accurate] style of tire gauge for high pressure purposes and where do I get one???

From Consumer Reports:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v207/billat908/tirepressgagetestCR.jpg

"The digital gauges performed flawlessly in all tested areas but were a bit more expensive than the other types. All digitals have replaceable batteries except the Monkey Grip M8867. If you decide on a digital, consider the Accutire MS-4020B, which reads from 5 to 150 psi and comes with a five-year warranty. Because both dial gauges were knocked out of calibration by our drop test, they didn't score as highly in ruggedness as the others."
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I bought an Accutire at Target, but have seen it at Sears and many auto parts stores. JC Whitney has it, too. http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Item...6BwfPPcIVNuLpg%3D%3D I checked mine several times at work on our super-accurate certified gauge checker, and it was always within a pound. I also have had an Accugage dial gauge for over 40 years. It is always accurate, but has never been dropped. Depending on the configuration of your rear valve stems, you might want to use a pencil type gage. The best ones are US made and sold at truck stops.

www.getagauge.com has a good selection. I just bought an EZ-Air and it is great.

In addition to what others have posted, be sure to check the max pressure that your rims are rated for and do not exceed that pressure. My aluminum rims are only rated for a max of 120 lbs.

In my original post, I asked-about proper tire inflation.

Bill h replied with some excellent information, but I have not yet weighed my coach, nor adjusted the pressures just yet.

This past weekend, I worked a 3-day Hippie Music Festival about 90 miles from home. While parked on-site, I noticed a large, marble-sized bulge in my right-rear outside duel ...the bulge then being located on the side-wall.

During the 3-day weekend, this "bulge" grew to the size of half and egg, then it started to look-like a golf-ball sticking-out of the side-wall.

OKAY...

Here comes the part where you guys will be shaking your heads.

When it came time to leave yesterday morning, I decided to lower the pressure in that particular tire and make the 90 mile trek home, utilizing the "back-roads".

I made-it home without any problems, and now the "bulge" is the size of a BASEBALL.

Obviously the tire must be replaced immediately.

I do not know the age of the tires, but they seem to be in very good condition and the original seller stated that the tires were "NEW" in his advertising information. I have put-on about 7,000 miles since obtaining the coach in July of last year.

This appears to be a defect [obviously], but I am unsure how to proceed with this situation regarding warranty or any other recourse that I may have with the manufacturer.

The Tire type/size/manufacturer is all listed above.

...anyone have any ideas as to how I should proceed???

[please feel free to interject any comments regarding my decission to drive-home yesterday morning]

First, lowering the pressure in one tire of duals isn't a good idea, as it will cause possible overheating or overstressing the other tire, but it luckily worked out for you.

Any Michelin dealer can adjust the tire and check the others for damage. It sounds like you have belt separation or failure in the sidewall.

If you don't have one, now would be a good time to get a road service club, like FMCA's or Good Sam's.

It's bound to come up, so decode the DOT number to determine the age of the tire.

http://www.rma.org/tire_safety/tire_maintenance_and_saf...s/sidewall_story.cfm

Just spoke with a local Michelin Dealer and he told me the same thing regarding the DOT number.

So, I will look-up the number when I get home from work and attempt to work-with these guys on some type of warranty, etc...

He, of course, told-me not to drive-it ...go figure!

I guess I will have to figure-out how to jack and remove a 22.5 rim and tire ...no experience in that area.

I had a Michelin self-destruct parked in a storage yard. It was four years old, too old for warranty. Another, the same age, had belt separation. From service records it was obvious that defect was there from the beginning. I buy Toyo tires now.

quote:

Originally posted by Medic37:
He, of course, told-me not to drive-it ...go figure!

I guess I will have to figure-out how to jack and remove a 22.5 rim and tire ...no experience in that area.

The tire mfg all have nationwide road service. For Michelin call 1-800-TIRE-911 (1-800-847-3911) and they will get you a roadservice vendor to swap out a tire.

The reason they are telling you not to drive it is because they're afraid that you'll take them to court or hold them responsible if more damage occurs. It's up to you if you really want to drive it. Like most anything, it depends on the individual and his comfort level. There is a risk but it's up to you to gamble.

Bill N.Y.

quote:

I guess I will have to figure-out how to jack and remove a 22.5 rim and tire ...no experience in that area.

Note that the tire and rim will weigh in the 120 lb range, and the removal of the lugnuts will require a commercial impact wrench (Torque is probably in the 150 lb-ft range)...this ain't for the faint hearted. Bill N Y may have more accurate weights and torques for these wheels.

I'd expect you could safely drive it a few miles, but pump up the pressure in the inner tire to max so in case the outer blows you won't get a sympathy failure.

the lugnuts on my bus (22.5 wheels) have to be torqued to between 450-500 lbs. I bought a torque multiplier a couple of months ago to get the wheels off and then back on at the right specs when i replaced my airbags.

Robin, do not call DW Truck in Chaska, they are the worst in the world. Pomps out in your area are great to work with and have come to my home to replace 4 tires that were punctured by a Demon of Iniquity who I think owns DW Truck in Chaska..

I've been researching the "tire situation".

Obviously, this is an expensive venture.

My tires were manufactured in 1996 ...these tires are 10 years old. No wonder a problem has developed.

I will only possibly be able to budget for ONE or possibly TWO tires at-a-time.

So, I'm looking-for recommendations on manufacturer preferences???

I've heard one vote for Toyo ...the guy at the local tire shop states that Toyo's wear too quickly ...he probably does not sell them.

I am also wondering if I should go to a commercial consumer tire shop or would I be better-off to shop for someone dealing with Truck Tires specifically ...this is primarily a PRICE consideration.

The dude I'm working-with thus far is recommending either Goodyear or Michelin

I am open to any and all suggestions.

...and I will definitly stay-away-from the Tire-Nazi" in Chaska Dave!

quote:

Originally posted by Medic37:
I've heard one vote for Toyo ...the guy at the local tire shop states that Toyo's wear too quickly ...

Remember, you will probably have your tires get old before they get bald.

Ten years is not all that dramatic. Bridgestone recommends ten as max. My own feeling is that Michelins develop problems irrespective of age. And tires that are driven regularly last longer than tires that sit.

Our Barth is now on Bridgestones. They are our first Bridgestone RV tires, but we have been happy with their car and MC tires, and we spoke to many happy owners before making our decision. Toyo has many happy owners, too. Especially truckers.

My Breakaway also sits on Bridgestones (Kellys in front). I always had Michelins on my cars (including 1967 when the first SAE sizes came out) until 1987, when I tired (pun) of replacing defectives tires when I hit #7 on the same set. #7 on a set of Goodyears also ended my use.

Toyo doesn't recommend their tires for motorhomes, but I think that's an avoidance-of-liability issue - I have friends that swear by them.

Anyway, Medic, replace the front tires first if that's practical, or at least put the two best from the rear on the front, as it sounds like you might have to start there.

Someone else may have a better recommendation, but my suggestion is that if you're replacing the rears in pairs, put both new ones on the same side.