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quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:

quote:

Originally posted by Tim Grimes:

What is the best differential oil to use in a Barth?

It depends on the diffy. I use Amsoil synthetic in my Breakaway (with a Dana 80); in my SOB with a GM rear axle, Kendall Elite.

Rusty, would you elaborate on that?

Thanks! I'll check those oils out. Tim

Tim,

If belts are a concern, I'd suggest you pack along one of those open-ended emergency belts that you splice on-site to fit the application..

It could make the difference between being stranded on the interstate vs. being able to make a quick-n-dirty repair and limp to a repair facility...

I think mine was less than $20.00....In addition to a full set of replacement belts in storage, I think it's a good belt-n-suspenders approach to address Murphy's Law......

Maybe add on a Good Sam ERS membership. It's on sale for $79 bucks right now, I think. $79 is cheaper than tow charges for something as large as an RV.

quote:

Originally posted by bill h:
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quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:

quote:

Originally posted by Tim Grimes:

What is the best differential oil to use in a Barth?

It depends on the diffy. I use Amsoil synthetic in my Breakaway (with a Dana 80); in my SOB with a GM rear axle, Kendall Elite.

Rusty, would you elaborate on that?

The major choice on the diffy lube is whether the diffy has some kind of lockup clutches (limited-slip), which require an extra additive, usually found in oils with the (API)"GL-5" designation. Those with the "GL-4" designation are fine for non-locking diffies, although, since oil's cheaper than metal, I use GL-5.

Kendall has long been known for making some of the finest gear oils around, so that's what I used in the SOB with the Chebby drivetrain. When I installed the Mag HyTech diffy cover on my Dana 80 in the Barth, I had a pleasant conversation with the Rothlisbergers about their recommendations. They were quite pleased with the Amsoil gear oils, so I went with their recommendation, since I couldn't find Kendall locally anymore.

quote:

Originally posted by pl77:
Maybe add on a Good Sam ERS membership. It's on sale for $79 bucks right now, I think. $79 is cheaper than tow charges for something as large as an RV.

Thanks pl77...I recently purchased an RV-Plus membership added to my AAA-Plus membership. Is AAA inferior to Good Sam? I suspect that it is? Does anyone have experience with RV-Plus from AAA? Thanks, Tim

I can't personally compare the two. A number of people in different forums have weighed in on the subject, for example:

rv.net thread 1
rv.net thread 2

Hope they help, but I do think it's a personal issue. The coverage I had on my current vehicle just expired, so I personally am looking at Good Sam for coverage, especially because--with a plus membership--me and my spouse are covered in any vehicle we drive for pretty much the same rate as CAA/AAA.

I had good service the one time I used Good Sam when I blew a tranny at the summit of Pacheco Pass years ago. More recently, I had good service from my auto policy ($4.00 semi-annually) when my fuel system plugged up in Tucson, on the SOB we had then. At the repair shop there was a single lady in a Barth who had AAA, & had been towed in from Kitt Peak.

Haven't had occasion to get the Barth towed, but as pl77 says, it's probably a matter of personal preference.

Any horror stories out there?

quote:

Originally posted by Ed Chevalier:
In addition to Gunner's comments, I would use a good heavy duty screwdriver as a pry bar to tighten the belt unless you are Hercules. The alternator belt will fly off or shred itself if the pulleys are not aligned or rusty. I would bring some plumbers tape (80 grit emory type sandpaper on a narrow strip) to remove rust from pulleys. Also, a good flourescent shop light would be great help topside. A good cushion or thick towel over the air cleaner makes it more comfortable.

Hey Ed,

"Plumber's Tape?" I'm not sure what you mean. Do you attach the sandpaper to a metallic plumber's fish? Sorry, I'm not sure what that is, or how that would work. I agree with your logic 100%, I just want to do it right. Thanks for your recommendations! Tim

[QUOTE]Originally posted by pl77:
I can't personally compare the two. A number of people in different forums have weighed in on the subject, for example:

rv.net thread 1
rv.net thread 2

Hope they help...

Thanks pl...excellent information! Tim

"Plumber's Tape?" I'm not sure what you mean. Do you attach the sandpaper to a metallic plumber's fish? S

Your local hardware store may know it as "emery cloth"; sandpaper with a cloth backing (instead of paper backing), about an inch wide, in rolls instead of sheets. It comes in fine (high numbers) and coarse, e.g. #80. Wonderful stuff.

Unsolicited advice: Don't make this into a project beyond what it started out to be, which is driving the Barth home.

Unsolicited advice: Don't make this into a project beyond what it started out to be, which is driving the Barth home.[/QUOTE]

Thanks Gunner, you're right. I'm back on track now. Tim

The plumber's tape is just right for this job. It's just as described in a prior reply cloth backed emory paper about 1" wide sold in a roll. It's durable enough and can be bought in a large roll at Harbor Freight Tools for just a few dollars. Without an alternator belt, you won't go far before the batteries croak. You can go a little further by holding down the coach battery switch while driving. This will kill the coach batteries in just a few miles. It's always best to carry a spare belt for unexpected repairs.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Ed Chevalier:
The plumber's tape is just right for this job...

I'm definitely going to buy some plumber's tape, and get rid of as much rust on the pulley assembleis as possible, then install the replacement alternator belt.

I really appreciate everyone's expertise and advise on this recovery mission. From everyone's recommendations on this road trip recovery mission, here's what I plan to bring along:

Gates belts (alternator, and others installed)
Plumber's tape (for all pulleys)
eye protection (for wife helping align belt ;-)
engine oil change
oil filter
transmission fluid change
transmission filter kit
engine coolant
recovery jugs for oil, tranny fluid, and coolant (several)
collection pan for draining
jack stands, heavy
floor jack, heavy
backup "emergency" belt
differential fluid
creeper
closed-end wrench set
flashlights
fastener solvent
in-line fuel filter
latex gloves

What'd I forget?

Thanks,
Tim

quote:

Originally posted by Ed Chevalier:
You can go a little further by holding down the coach battery switch while driving. This will kill the coach batteries in just a few miles. It's always best to carry a spare belt for unexpected repairs.

If the generator is genning, you can drive quite a distance holding the switch in.