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Sealant

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https://www.barthmobile.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/3631087061/m/7493959387

11-27-2014, 12:49 AM
Quinn
Sealant
I'm very impressed with the tiny bead of sealant that the builders of my Barth applied to all the exterior joints. However, a few need touching up, like the door latch, and compartment frames:




What is the right material to use?

What is the easiest way to remove the old stuff? Is there a chemical way to do it?

Quinn
11-27-2014, 01:22 AM
Rusty
Most sealants cure resistant to solvents. However, mechanical scraping to remove the loose stuff is fairly easy. The gaps can then be resealed with a product formulated for that application. I'm not a fan of silicone sealers for this type of repair.


Rusty


MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP; built-to-order by Peninsular Engines:  Hi-pop injectors, gear-driven camshaft, non-waste-gated, high-output turbo, 18:1 pistons.  Fuel economy increased by 15-20%, power, WOW!"StaRV II"

'94 28' Breakaway: MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP

Nelson and Chester, not-spoiled Golden Retrievers

Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think we're not.
In either case the idea is quite staggering.
- Arthur C. Clarke

It was a woman who drove me to drink, and I've been searching thirty years to find her and thank her - W. C. Fields
11-27-2014, 01:26 AM
Quinn
OK, Rusty, I'll take the bait. What ARE you a fan of for this type of repair? Confused
11-27-2014, 05:33 PM
Rusty
I use Dicor lap sealant (non-sag, non-self-leveling) for these joints. However, from the photos, it appears that the seam also needs to be re-riveted.

I use acetone to clean any spot I'm resealing, applied with an old toothbrush.


Rusty


MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP; built-to-order by Peninsular Engines:  Hi-pop injectors, gear-driven camshaft, non-waste-gated, high-output turbo, 18:1 pistons.  Fuel economy increased by 15-20%, power, WOW!"StaRV II"

'94 28' Breakaway: MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP

Nelson and Chester, not-spoiled Golden Retrievers

Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think we're not.
In either case the idea is quite staggering.
- Arthur C. Clarke

It was a woman who drove me to drink, and I've been searching thirty years to find her and thank her - W. C. Fields
11-27-2014, 05:43 PM
bill h
quote:
Originally posted by Rusty:
I use Dicor lap sealant (non-sag, non-self-leveling) for these joints.


Yup. Great stuff

quote:
I use acetone to clean any spot I'm resealing, applied with an old toothbrush.


After that, I rough up the area a little. Usually mildly scoring with the tip of a pocket knife.


.

84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered
12-01-2014, 01:59 AM
Quinn
And if I'm going to re-rivet these seams (and others) is it worthwhile to run a thin line of the sealant in the joint before setting the rivets? Or will that make the joint more prone to leaking?
12-01-2014, 04:41 PM
Rusty
Seal the joint before riveting - it can be seen by your pix that the sealant developed a crack due to the seam having separated.

Drill out the old rivets, insert the new ones, seal, then expand the rivets.


Rusty


MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP; built-to-order by Peninsular Engines:  Hi-pop injectors, gear-driven camshaft, non-waste-gated, high-output turbo, 18:1 pistons.  Fuel economy increased by 15-20%, power, WOW!"StaRV II"

'94 28' Breakaway: MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP

Nelson and Chester, not-spoiled Golden Retrievers

Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think we're not.
In either case the idea is quite staggering.
- Arthur C. Clarke

It was a woman who drove me to drink, and I've been searching thirty years to find her and thank her - W. C. Fields