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"5+ Years of Active Membership" 9/11 |
I need some opinions on a recent problem. I purchased two 4" tire valve extenders to put on the inner rear tires. Before putting them on I checked my tire pressures and when I got to the left side inner tire had a leak at the valve core when I removed the tire pressure gauge. It is a small leak and I could not get it to stop, so I screwed on a valve cap to stop it. My question is- do I need to go to a tire shop and have a new valve core put in since I am going to use valve extenders which push open the leaking valve anyway.(they have a valve core on the other end. Just trying to save some money. Jim | ||
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First Month Member 11/13 |
Valve cores are very cheap and easy to replace yourself. . 84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered | |||
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"5+ Years of Active Membership" 9/11 |
Bill, I have replacement cores and the tool. My problem is I can't get to the inner rear tire to replace the core. I think the outer rear wheel would have to come off to do it. If I could I still have the problem of re-filling the tire with air. I have a compressor but can't get it close enough to the tire. I tried running an extension cord (which I thought was heavy enough) ,however after the compressor reached about 75-80 it blew the circuit breaker in the garage and that's a 50amp rating. Jim | |||
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2/16 Captain Doom |
First, with air compressors the rule is to keep the electric cord short and use air hoses to cover the long distances. I can't picture how you can put the extenders on but can't replace the valve core. Rusty "StaRV II" '94 28' Breakaway: MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP Nelson and Chester, not-spoiled Golden Retrievers Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think we're not. In either case the idea is quite staggering. - Arthur C. Clarke It was a woman who drove me to drink, and I've been searching thirty years to find her and thank her - W. C. Fields | |||
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"5+ Years of Active Membership" 9/11 |
Rusty, Thanks, however I do know about keeping the cord short and the hoses long, just thought I would try. So that's the answer, I need to buy more hose. I think mine is 35' long now and would only need another 50' to make it work since I have a detached garage and can't get the Barth past the house back to the garage (will not clear the roof overhang). It's easy to just screw the 4" extender thru the hole in the wheel into the valve stem. Can't get the core tool to fit thru the hole (too short) or if I crawl under and reach between the tires the tool is to large. I guess I could just use a valve cap that has the core tip on it (and that still would be tight,as there is just enough room to screw on the valve cap) ,however that still leaves me with a flat tire. Guess I'll be looking for a new air hose or hoses as the ones on it now look like they should be replaced anyway. Another thing around where I live it is getting harder to find an air pump that will put out more then about 50-60 lbs. In fact there isn't one unless you go to a tire center. All the gas stations have these 25 cent air pumps and like I said about 50 lbs and they quit (if that much). Thanks, Jim | |||
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First Month Member 11/13 |
Long hoses are handy. However, there are two additional possibilities to explore: 1. Heavier extension cord. 2. If your compressor is portable, fill up the tank near the plug in and wheel it out to the Barth to air the tire after you have replaced the core. I carry a 12 volt compressor with me. . 84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered | |||
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First Month Member 11/13 |
You can screw a core removal valve cap onto a long 1/4 bolt to make a long core tool. The threads are not right, but can be forced to go onto a 1/4-28 bolt. Or just reduce the diameter of a 1/4 inch unthreaded rod enough to drive it on the cap with a hammer. Drill a hole in a piece of hardwood so the shoulder of the cap takes the impact, not the tip. . 84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered | |||
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"5+ Years of Active Membership" 9/11 |
Bill, Those are good suggestions. I like the idea of making some type of an extension and just go thru the hole in the wheel. I do think I'll be looking at buying a couple of new hoses since mine look like they need replacing. I also found my portable air tank which will hold about 80lbs air. What kind of 12 volt air comp. do you have and will it fill a tire to 100 lbs.? I run all my tires at 100 psi. Another thing is to put a fitting on the engine compressor and run a hose off it to fill the tires. I had talked to Bill(NY) once about doing this as on of my trips. I had a slow leak and could not find a truck stop or gas station with an air pump that would put out more then 50psi. A trucker helped me out as he had a rig with an air hose fitting on his truck and he helped me out by filling my tire. The trucker said the reason he fitted his rig with one was because of what I mentioned even the truck stops have been doing away with the air pumps that put out more then 50 psi. Thanks again, Jim | |||
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7/17 |
Try pushing the schrader valve in and out with a 1/8" dia. punch several times to see if it will seal. If you are adding extenders I don't think it will matter. As much as I hate extender (have had problems) I have stainless hose extender on my inside duals. If I had known what I do now I would of had extended angled stems installed when new tires were installed. Right now it is a real pain in the a to get to the insides. Doorman 1986 31' Regal -1976 Class C 454/T400 P30 -350/T400 G30 twin cntr beds - 21' rear bath | |||
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3/11 |
IMHO you should avoid extenders at all costs. You are now experiencing the result. You can go to a truck tire center and have proper long valve cores installed. They will orient them to your mounting sequence so the inner tires will extend to the outside. Of course that means you will be required to keep the inner wheels mounted to match your valve stems. As for a proper compressor I would go to the "south" side of town to a pawn shop and buy a roofing nailer gun compact unit. You can expect to pay half price or less and they can maintain 125-150 psi under load. They will fit in the baggage compartment if you can lose some storage for other things. 1993 32' Regency Wide Body, 4 speed Allison Trans, Front Entry door, Diamond Plate aluminum roof & 1981 Euro 22' w Chevy 350 engine and TH 400 tranny | |||
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"5+ Years of Active Membership" 9/11 |
Doorman & Tom K, The extenders I bought are the straight solid ones. Designed to come thru the hole in the outer rim by about an inch. I have yet to install them. I had heard of problems with the flex hose ones. I did try punching the core release several times without any success. The reason I bought the extenders- this is the second time I have had an inside valve stick after checking the air pressure. Jim | |||
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First Month Member 11/13 |
THIS ONE It is Chinese, but so far so good. I think the trick is not to let it get hot.
Great idea. I would have one in a heartbeat if my coach had a pump. . 84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered | |||
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3/11 |
Any extender is a disaster waiting to happen. One shrader valve (value about 1/2 cent)is bad, two are worse and I have thrown away may of the metal straight extenders that leak through the threads, the valve or, in the worst case, vibrate and break off the rubber valve stem and you get an immediate blowout. Use the angle steel ones from a truck center and you will get years and years of worry free travel. 1993 32' Regency Wide Body, 4 speed Allison Trans, Front Entry door, Diamond Plate aluminum roof & 1981 Euro 22' w Chevy 350 engine and TH 400 tranny | |||
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First Month Member 11/13 |
Are you sure it won't hold more? That is lower than any tank I have run across. As far as valve extenders, there are two kinds. Flexible and solid. I have use both, with two kinds of results. You can probably guess what happened with the flex hoses that came on one RV. I should have been suspicious when the coach came with a coupla spare hoses. But, I was inexperienced. The solid ones have served me well. I put them on with Loctite and they are part of the valve stem. They are supported by the wheel liners, so centrifugal force cannot affect the stems. Been using them for maybe 20 years. Over ten years on the Barth. Having said that, longer stems are simpler and probably better. One of mine has a longer stem because the tire shop that repaired a puncture had one. There is another way to go on extensions. Use hex head metal caps, and carry a nut driver to remove them. After the caps are removed, use a solid extension to inflate or check pressure. When done, replace the metal cap with the nut driver, and drive down the road with no worries. . 84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered | |||
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"5+ Years of Active Membership" 9/11 |
Bill H, I guess I was having a "senior moment" about the air tank. I had built my own air tank and it was good for 80psi, however I got rid of that one when I got my Dad's after he died. It's factory built and the rating is 120psi. When I put the extenders on I will use pipe paste on the threads of the extender onto the valve stem. That should prevent an air leak there. I'll put just a dap on the valve cap end and use the hex wrench to just slightly snug it up. Don't want to risk over doing it. Good suggestions- thanks again. I'll be going out shortly to tackle this, been to hot and muggy with the afternoon showers for the last two days. Jim | |||
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