Does anyone have any idea's how to replace the fuel-sending unit on a 71 24' P-30 with out pulling the side panel of the motor home , maybe by going thru the floor?

KEITH WHITE
RETIRED U.S.ARMY
71 24'L P-30 350





[This message has been edited by keithwhite (edited September 07, 2004).]

Keith:

On my 1973 P30 the tank always reads full. It is my impression that the sender should show 80 ohms when full and 0 ohms when empty. As the wires that run from my tank to the gage were replaced once and since have been damaged because they run next to the exaust I will also be visiting my fuel tank sender.

My plan is to:

1) Measure resistance at the sender or as close to the thing as I can get.

2) If the sender is the problem, I plan to use another load of PB rust buster on the tank mouning strap screws and drop the tank on the ground to work on it.

P.S. Do not use your shop vac to start a gas siphon and please do not ask me how I know this. Thank you God once again I am unharmed and alive when a review of the events suggest that this should not be the case.

Please keep me posted as I think you will be working you your coach long before I get to the gas gage on mine.

Thanks:

Timothy

[This message has been edited by timnlana (edited September 08, 2004).]

[This message has been edited by timnlana (edited September 08, 2004).]

quote:

Originally posted by timnlana:
Keith:

On my 1973 P30 the tank always reads full. It is my impression that the sender should show 80 ohms when full and 0 ohms when empty. As the wires that run from my tank to the gage were replaced once and since have been damaged because they run next to the exaust I will also be visiting my fuel tank sender.

My plan is to:

1) Measure resistance at the sender or as close to the thing as I can get.

2) If the sender is the problem, I plan to use another load of PB rust buster on the tank mouning strap screws and drop the tank on the ground to work on it.

P.S. Do not use your shop vac to start a gas siphon and please do not ask me how I know this. Thank you God once again I am unharmed and alive when a review of the events suggest that this should not be the case.

Please keep me posted as I think you will be working you your coach long before I get to the gas gage on mine.

Thanks:

Timothy

[This message has been edited by timnlana (edited September 08, 2004).]

[This message has been edited by timnlana (edited September 08, 2004).]

my mechanic tried to pull the tanks but they are sitting on large upside down L brackets that are riveted to the frame i think the best way maybe to cut a small flap hole in the carpet and go thru the floor the main one is the right as the generator will quit before the left one runs out so i know when the left is low will let you know what i run into.

With a leak in my fuel filler, inaccessible from below, I went through the floor to see if i could reach it.

A seam in the plywood, and a row of screws, showed me where structural members were. I went through 5/8" of plywood, 1 1/2" of fiberglass insulation, and the sheet metal belly pan, to find that structural members were in the way of the filler hose. At the end, I had to cut out the bottom of the black water tank compartment and drop the tank to replace the filler hose.

With better luck than I had, you may find no structural members in the way. Good luck.
Roy

'

An old electric fuel pump works great as a siphon. I siphoned all my gas straight to my truck instead of a bunch of cans. I dropped the tank and replaced the hoses. Once its empty, the job is half over. Good luck.

My right tank always reads full [all the way] and if it's clean and not leaking should I worry about it? I can top it off and run a couple hundred miles, then change over to left and watch the gauge. Is there something I'm not taking into account here?

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Dan & Suzy Z
'81 Euro 28