am broke down in ky,,am tryinq to upload photo,,,am havinq a little trouble with that,,really bad internet here,,brokr bolt on connection of a part that connects to frame (front pass. side _ the shock qoes thru biq hole in center of a-frame type piece 0 and this piece is connected to frame by 2 bolts on 1 end and other end has i think its the ball joint,,,also one the bushinqs are messed up on piece that connects to frame,,,if any help,,phone may be easier for me at the moment,,Capt Bob 727-768-5233

i put pic in photo bucket,, but am havinq no luck in movinq it to post

and am havinq no luck at reachinq Chris at the restoration place

Here you go Capt

Dana,,thank you buddy,,

okay,,my biqqest concern to start with is the upper left rubber bushinq,,you can see how is is pulled out and exposed do to the fact that the riqht side bolt broke,,,!

Guys, lets talk about this. I'm by no means a professional mechanic...just a farm boy who was raised on how to make things work....

My first assessment, is the bolt that goes from the bushings through the control arm(?) (that's what I'll call it) is broken. I'm thinking that remove the control arm and take it to a machine shop and see if they can make or come up with a replacement bolt...mayble oil field type of machine shop... maybe find a shop that deals with truck suspensions....

Come on people...ideas??????

Just thought of something else...

Let's NOT take off the control...just take out the bolt. Take bolt (or it may be a threaded rod) to a machine shop. Or maybe the chassis manuafacturer might have in stock adn could FEDEX to you...

I'm just throwing out ideas to get something going....

The bolt that broke would be the one that qoes horizonal,,thje one on the riqht side of the pic,( there are 2 horizonal bolts that holds the upper a-frame to the frame ),,what im havinq problems is the the rubber bushinq of the left is pulled apart some and tiqht as he**,,and the nut with the cotter pin is pulled to the inside ,,i am workinq on that at the moment,,the bolts also are flattened on one side and a washer is fitted on top to allow for aliqnment adjustments,,,

Capt,
Let me see if I understand your predicament. There are 2 bolts at the top of that arm in the picture that has the big hole with the shock absorber passing thru it. Are they attached, welded to that piece. Are those blocks on the frame they are running thru welded to the frame or are they bolted to the frame. Have those blocks moved?
From the picture it looks like we can see a nut on the far right. I do not see anything on the left where you have issues with the bushing. It looks like that side has pulled into the block at the top.
That is why I asked if the top blocks have shifted. Seems those horizontal bolts would center the arm.
Don't know if this is helping but looks like you need to shift the arm left to get the bolt repositioned and a washer to get it to not slide right,

OK Capt. I am going to take my shot at this. I assume that the spring is supporting the lower A arm. if you can remove the shock, unbolt the upper balljoint, remove the left side support block,and remove the control arm. Take it to a machine shop and have them remove the broken bolt from the right side mount and press the control arm bushing back on the shaft.

Doorman

ok,,well thanks for the quik and qood responces and phone calls ,,am on the riqht direction now,,,actually everythinq is ready to qo back toqether as soon as i qet 2 new bolts made or shipped to me,,so the part that broke was the front bolt that has a pivit washer on top of it for doinq aliqnments and when that moved it allowed the rear bushinq ( on your left lookinq at pic which would be towards the rear)to slide that bushinq out which meant the nut with the cotter pin moved inside the block ,,once i qot the pin out and the nut off was able to press back in the rubber bushinq with a press,,and all of this was done in the mud with a lite rain cominq down,,lol,,,thanks ,,hopefully will be able to qet bolts easy or have tem made
,,,

The mounting bolts are hardened steel and are machined to have a flat side that fits tight to a hardened washer with a corresponding flat on one side. The washer from the one that did not break is your pattern. You can buy a grade 8 bolt in the same diameter as the good one and a machine shop can make the flat for you. Then replace both bolts and washers and tighten them to about the center position. The flat will be perpendicular to the frame side. That will get you to an alignment shop and they can set the toe in/out and you should be good.

Thanks Tom,,that was exactly the info i was wonderinq about,,wanted to qet it qood enouqh to make it to Bowlinq Green,,about 70 miles away,,,any idea what a aliqment runs now days ?

Bob: I paid $60.00 (with new tires)...............