I base this solely on Redlines' claims, none of which is supported by results from ASTM (or other reliable venues, like API) tests: BS.

If one can't supply documentation of having passed ASTM or API specs, then yer stuff doesn't go into my engine. Frankly, all of Redline's specs are suspect, due to the amout of BS, IMHO.

This statement, in particular, is stunning:

"Red Line Motor Oils are designed to provide the highest degree of protection and cleanliness for your automotive, motorcycle, or marine engine. We
use the most stable synthetic components available and formulate our products for wear protection across a wide range of engine operating conditions.
Red Line lubricants are unique because they contain PE Polyol Ester base stocks, the only lubricants which can withstand the tremendous heat of modern
jet engines. This high-temperature stability makes our motor oil a necessity to properly lubricate a turbocharger or hot-running engine. The synthetic
base stocks have a natural multigrade property, which means that large amounts of unstable polymeric thickeners, like those used in petroleum oils, are
not required to manufacture our multigrades."

Give me a break!

Thanks, Rusty. Discerning minds can see BS for what it is. Next time, I'll save my money.

I don't use Red Line oil, but a number of my acquaintances whose opinion I value use it.

I have used their trans fluid with excellent results. Each time, the trans ran cooler.

The guy who rebuilt my 4WD transfer case is really sharp, and he recommended it.

I have had excellent results with their fuel system cleaner and water wetter. Their fuel system cleaner has been effective where Gumout was not. An auto parts store owner put me on it. He said that every customer who used it came back smiling. On one of my vehicles, it released so much crud from the fuel tank and lines that the filter on the carb inlet clogged and bypassed, causing a stuck open float valve. On my Barth, it made the Kohler generator run right for the first time ever.

On a previous MH, I clumb the same hill with and without Water Wetter. It was a while back, but IFIRC, the difference was 10 or 15 degrees over 50/50 water and antifreeze.

So, even without using their engine oil, I am a fan of their other products.

I don't use the water-wetter, as the huge radiator on my Breakaway rarely opens both thermostats anyway (8-mile, 6% climb in 98°F weather produced 205°F on the temp gage). However, I have friends that do, and from their reports, it's a primo product.

As far as fuel systems cleaners, I've not used Red Line, but IMHO, Chevron Techron is hard to beat.

Resurrecting this 8 year old thread. There is lots of information here, and since my comprehension is poor, I really need to read it hundred times. I never did like Pennsylvania crude oils. They were cheaper than no oil though. I always purchased Shell Rotella Synthetic by the drum for everything I owned ever since it came out. Sorry Rusty but I like wasting my money on synthetic oil for my diesel engines. Now the 55 gallon drum is way overpriced, it really was a waste of money. Although now I can buy a gallon of Rotella T6 for $22 at Auto Zone. One every day for a 5 working days and get $20 off of the 6th gallon. You have to play the points game and go every 24 hours though to get the bonus point on your $20 purchase.

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Here is the math
5 times $22 = $110
1 at$$$$$2 = $2
Total $112 for 6 gallons plus tax always (depends where you live.)
$4.67 per quart. As an added bonus till the end of this year, you get another $5.00 rebate every gallon, (limit to four rebates per address.)

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This totals out cheaper then the wholesale cost of a drum of Shell Rotella Synthetic that I paid several years ago? Is it worth it now?

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Conclusion? Is it about the same cost as conventional diesel engine oil?

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One more question that may be answered in this topic, but I might have missed it? What about the inclusion of adding STP or Motor Honey or any other additive. Lets here about additives, good bad or useless?

At Shell, we lumped most additives into one category: "Mouse Milk".

Management got pressure from marketing to make an "additive", so the lab repackaged the additive package from X100 motor oil, which did provide some benefits without the potential for harm.

"Pennsylvania Grade" crude is mostly paraffinic, while further southwest, crudes are napthenic. While the Paraffincs are less susceptible to degradation, the result is hard, gritty deposits, while the more susceptible napthenics' deposits are varnish and gum.

While the Rotella T synthetic isn't at all harmful, it's overkill.

There is lots of good reading here in this Lubricant topic. If I were going to quote, I would have to quote the whole thread. Referring to the Mouse Milk Rusty speaks of, is there any Mouse Milk that we should stay away from? On the other hand, is there a recommendation say for a slightly overdue oil change? For example: being on a Barth Journey and needing an oil change but postponing the oil change till the Barth Journey ended at home. I do prefer do change my own oil as long as I am able. Are thickening agents like STP of any use in our diesels or gassers? I know Rusty and MWrench do not believe in using synthetic oil in diesel engines. It is just easier to use the same oil in everything I own. Are the house brands of Mouse Milk the same as the name brands? Could it be that the house brand is the same as the JUNK name brand faucet from Home Depot and Lowes? Name brand faucets at the plumbers supply store cost more for a reason. We are not discussing faucets though, we are discussing quality. Sometimes we pay more and get what we pay for. Other times the house brand may be equal, but how do we know? Generic drugs, are supposed to be equal, but may not be. So to wrap it all up is there anything to add to good quality Shell Rotella Synthetic to get me a few extra of hours once in a while? Changing oil every 200 hours is my ideal oil change. I think running thru the mountains also shortens oil life expectancy also. I know it causes the Caterpillar 3208 to burn some oil off. Maybe adding the Mouse Milk during a Barth Journey thru the mountains instead of replacing the quart of burned oil would be a good idea or not?

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Lets hear your thoughts.

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I also have another oil question, but it is not for the Barth so I will just put the link here.

quote:

Originally posted by Kevin:
Are thickening agents like STP of any use in our diesels or gassers?
I also have another oil question, but it is not for the Barth so I will just put the link here.

STP is an excellent example of Mouse Milk; not only did it provide limited-time performance, but it was deleterious to engines. STP was NOT an oil "thickener", but a VII (Viscosity Index Improver). The Viscosity Index is a measure of an oil's ability to resist thinning as the temperature rises. This (as with STP as well) is accomplished by additives with molecules that are coiled up and act small at lower temps (smaller molecules equal lower viscosity) but uncoil at higher temps and are larger, assisting the resistance to thinning.

Sadly, STP was a blend of polyisobutylene and napthenic base stock. When polyisobutylene uncoiled, it was subject to mechanical shearing, so its ability to resist thinning was impaired. Worse, the fracture remnants manifested themselves in gritty ringbelt and valve deposits.

Contemporary VIIs are not susceptible to the shearing like polyisobutylene, and are effective over the life of the oil. This characteristic is labelled "shear stable", very important because how multigrade motor oils are formulated. A 10W30 will start with a 10W to which VIIs are added, so that it resists thinning to qualify as a SAE 30 at higher temps.

quote:

Contemporary VIIs are not susceptible to the shearing like polyisobutylene,

Rusty, are there any over the counter Contemporary VIIs consumers can purchase and trust?

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I do remember reading postings on shear strength here previously. Here is a link I found this morning after reading your post. It has pictures that helped me understand your concept of "shear."

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If I am comprehending this correctly, the synopsis is just stick with the good (Kendall or Shell) oil. Consumers should not add anything else?

There may be OTC VIIs, but they're unnecessary. No other additive is desirable, the possible exception being a locking differential, where an additive may be necessary if GL-4 is used. GL-5 oils have the additive.

Small independent blenders have nowhere near the resources of the major oil blenders, such as Kendall, Shell, Exxon/Mobil, and Valvoline. A lot of resources in the latter outfits is dedicated to research and testing, for API, SAE and MIL-L-xxxx Spec approval, none of which comes quickly or cheaply.

The Shell Rotella Synthetic rebate is back at Auto Zone. Here is what else you can do. Tell the Auto Zone Clerk you want a Wall Mart Price match of $21.36 instead of paying $28.99. The Walmart is in my area is $21.36. Some areas are $21.29. Use your Auto Zone Loyalty card and purchase just one gallon every day for five days. You will then have five loyalty points for getting $20 off anything else you buy, and a $20 rebate in the mail.

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This works for me, because the Caterpillar takes 5 gallons of oil. I change oil every 200 hours. Give your savings to support Barthmobile.com!