Spent the last 2 days catching up on old postings from this forum (88 pages) I think I'm addicted to this site. So much good stuff!
One recurring theme is engine heat. I have headers, insulated spark wire ends, and a metal starter heat shield. The starter is stubborn when hot so I have already got the high temp solenoid. I will soon install it, check the shimming/gear clearance, connections, and shield as best I can.
I have no apparent problems with engine compartment or spark wires but I did install a manual switch on the electric fans to run after shutdown to reduce heat soak and will soon put firesleeves on the plug wires.
1) It appears I have neither the left or right side sheet metal deflectors. The right side which was added later is GM 15983041. I planned to order it and reverse engineer the left side but my GM counter friend tells me GM no longer supports that number. Does anyone have a layout diagram of these shields? Rough dimensions would do. I'm sure I can cobble something but a pattern would be great.
2) The inside of the doghouse is insulated with a feltlike material which is working but I think there should be something nonflammable over it (foil, etc.) Any suggestions on materials here?

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The inside of the doghouse is insulated with a feltlike material which is working but I think there should be something nonflammable over it (foil, etc.) Any suggestions on materials here?

I used Ultra Barrier, normally used in marine apps, and it's held up very well. It's very expensive, and not fireproof, but if your engine is on fire I don't think anything is fireproof. Search doghouse for more info and links.

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Originally posted by Steve VW:

1) It appears I have neither the left or right side sheet metal deflectors.

Are you sure the left side is not there? Here are a couple of shots of mine.

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The right side which was added later is GM 15983041. I planned to order it and reverse engineer the left side but my GM counter friend tells me GM no longer supports that number. Does anyone have a layout diagram of these shields? Rough dimensions would do. I'm sure I can cobble something but a pattern would be great.

I have sent cardboard patterns to several members. Perhaps one of them will share. I can't find my master copy right now, but next time the shield is off the coach, I will make a tracing. In the meantime, here is some stuff that might help, including a couple of images with a ruler to help with the dimensions.













An air dam under the radiator helps, too, as it creates a low pressure area behind the radiator to draw air through it. I made mine out of that rubber garden edging stuff, but it got knocked off boondocking. The next one will be made of conveyor belt or truck mud flap material.

My mods have been good so far. Towing our heavy 4WD uphill from Quartzsite to Prescott in 105 temps shows no overheating. However, the genset needs help, as it gets vapor lock if I run both roof airs.

For larger images, pm me.

Any questions, holler.

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The inside of the doghouse is insulated with a feltlike material which is working but I think there should be something nonflammable over it (foil, etc.) Any suggestions on materials here?

Mine has an aluminum scrim material over the padding. Looks OEM.

Aha! Fig 7-6-C ! One picture worth 1000 words! I recognized that when I saw it. I have it in the motorhome service guide. Couldn't remember where I saw it. Duh. Thanks for the additional pics I can definitely say I have neither side. Needless to say I will be "in the doghouse" for my next project. With the stuff here it will be easy. Thanks.
Now I'm back to singin' the sulphation blues, it looks like the old batteries sat way too long at half mast or lower. Replaced the crank battery today, it looks like the deep cycles may be beyond hope as well. They just sat too long.
Now where did I leave that nice scrap aluminum sheet/future air dam? See ya.

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Originally posted by Steve VW:
I can definitely say I have neither side.

Wunner how that happened. Maybe someone took it off to service the master cylinder. I do mine by taking out the rear bolts and tying it out of the way with baling wire.

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Needless to say I will be "in the doghouse" for my next project. With the stuff here it will be easy. Thanks.

Keep us posted. Would it help if I shot another picture of the front part with the wheel cocked the other way? Next time I have the left front wheel off, I will shoot better pictures and make a paper tracing.

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Now I'm back to singin' the sulphation blues, it looks like the old batteries sat way too long at half mast or lower. Replaced the crank battery today, it looks like the deep cycles may be beyond hope as well. They just sat too long.

Maybe not.............

Do you have a charger that desulfates? My Vector does, but it takes several full cycles to do a complete job. It works best after the battery is fully charged.

Remember, fully charged does not mean desulfated. It just means a full charge, but not necessarily desulfated.

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If you have a charger that goes over 50 amps, try this:

Charge it on 50 amps for 1 to 2 hours, then trickle charge it overnight or until fully charged.

Many times it will save the battery. Especially good for batteries that have gone dead while inactive.
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Have you read up on EDTA? Home Power Magazine has a good article on it.

What batteries do you have? This stuff is more rewarding on 6 volt batteries than most 12 volts.

Ah yes, good old ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, I knew her well (but we all called her Nancy!) It has been used as a chelating agent to trap metal ions in numerous applications.
I can see where it could possibly help tie up contaminants like Ca, Mg and Fe ions, also maybe redissolve some of the insoluble sulfate compounds. In absence of those metals I'm not sure what it does to the Pb cycles. It does stay soluble and is active in ionic form in very acidic solutions, would therefore contribute to the overall conductivity of the electrolyte. At worst, like chicken soup!
This worth further research.
My deep cycle batts finally came around after numerous electronic charging tricks. Now back to the other projects. My Hellwig antisway bar arrived yesterday. Serious beefy stock there! See ya

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Originally posted by Steve VW:

My deep cycle batts finally came around after numerous electronic charging tricks.

That sounds interesting...................tell, tell.

Like you suggested I charged em hard about 40 amps for 3 hours. Used the desulfation cycle to bring them up to top (many hours) Next day, ran em down about halfway with a couple old headlights, charged em hard for an hour then used my old Sears 10 amp auto on deep cycle setting to finish off. I got good even specific gravity on all the cells now and the both headlights ran over 8 hrs yesterday on less than half charge so I think they're worth keeping for now. After they settled down I can measure the final voltage.
The cranking batt was only 3 yrs old but one cell just wouldn't revive so it is history.

I think I have one of your templates. Or did BillNY send it to us? We never put one on because all the AC hoses wouldn't allow it to feed in far enough forward. Where do we send it?
Tere

Thanks but I'm sure I can make what I need from the pictures and measurements I have. Turns out I do have the left side, well part of it. Looking at Bill's pics, it seems someone has cut off the back half. There is a piece remaining around the brake cylinder but the rear half was cut off. I am replacing that and the entire right side. With the AC and air pump hoses gone it will be easier to get a good fit. Now Barth will be even cooler!

bill h, what are the dimensions of the under radiator air dam you used. Thanks in advance.
Tommy

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Originally posted by Tommy&Evelyn:
bill h, what are the dimensions of the under radiator air dam you used. Thanks in advance.
Tommy

It got torn off again, but it was made from that plastic/rubber material they sell for lawn edging. It hung down about 4 inches, and went from one frame rail to the other. I used 90 degree brackets to hold it on.

My suggestion would be to use conveyor belt material. Either that or stay on the paved road.

Thanks, bill I have just the stuff to use, just have to find it.
Tommy

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The right side Does anyone have a layout diagram of these shields? Rough dimensions would do. I'm sure I can cobble something but a pattern would be great.

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I have sent cardboard patterns to several members. Perhaps one of them will share. I can't find my master copy right now,......

News Flash!........I found it. Send me your snail mail address and I'll send you a tracing.

Would you please send a copy to Paul Nance 621 N.Oak St. Iola,Ks. 66749 missing right side 1987.Thanks paul.