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"5+ Years of Active Membership" |
Guys, I need your help. The radiator needs to be replaced and well it’s not real clear as to how to pull it out of the unit. This is the P-30 chassis (Regal) and is a front end diesel (I'm not sure that matters in this case). Has anyone taken out a radiator and if so, how did you do it? Also, where did you purchase a replacement and at what cost? Would you recommend this parts supplier? An urgent reply is greatly appreciated because, it is currently in a shop and the current radiator leaks. While, the unit is usable, if the replacement can be done at a reasonable cost, I’d like to get it done while it’s there now. ’84 Barth Regal 25 ‘ w/ “FRED” FRont End Diesel Chevy 6.2 L diesel | ||
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06/08 |
If you do a search with "radiator" you may find the info you need. Neil. | |||
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Glassnose Aficionado 2/09 |
Not sure if it's relevant, because I have a 454, but we used a tow truck to lift the front end, and placed truck jack stands under the frame. It had to be a looong way up! Then dropped the radiator out the bottom. A very tight fit, but it does squeeze through. 79 Barth Classic | |||
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"5+ Years of Active Membership" |
Dan, were you able to drop it straight down or were "gymnastics", i.e. rotating it 90 degrees or something like that required? It is currently in a shop that works on trucks and motor homes. this is the first Barth for this mechanic. Bill, I did a quick search and read the first thread. While it sounds like some folks were successful, my pea brain was just not able to follow all of the steps for removal. Any suggestions for a particular thread? ’84 Barth Regal 25 ‘ w/ “FRED” FRont End Diesel Chevy 6.2 L diesel | |||
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Glassnose Aficionado 2/09 |
As I recall, once all the hoses were disconnected and out of the way, it was just a matter of wiggling it straight down. Any tranny or oil coolers may have to be removed out of the way, but that stuff is self evident. I'm trying to figure out why the coach manufacturer would be much of a concern in this area. Maybe some Steer-safe or other traction control devices could impede, but it should be pretty straight forward for the most part. But then again, I'm not too familiar with ol' FRED. 79 Barth Classic | |||
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2/16 Captain Doom |
The 6.2L uses essentially the same engine mounts as a 454 (7.4L), and there should be no obstructions other than the ground. Rusty "StaRV II" '94 28' Breakaway: MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP Nelson and Chester, not-spoiled Golden Retrievers Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think we're not. In either case the idea is quite staggering. - Arthur C. Clarke It was a woman who drove me to drink, and I've been searching thirty years to find her and thank her - W. C. Fields | |||
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1/12 |
I did mine from the top but the dash was out and the front of the engine was apart. to come out the bottom it will have to be pretty high off the ground unless they have a pit. but it can be done. Richard & Robin
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"5+ Years of Active Membership" |
Guys, Thanks for the prompt follow up. Y'all are awesome. You continue to confirm that Barth Owners are just really nice people. Additionally, Dave's spirit about community cooperation and information sharing continues in this website. Today, I'll see if I can drop by the garage and see what this mechanic sees differently than what y'all have described. I was origianlly planning to do this repair last year and had made many of the same assumptions that you have about the way to take out the radiator. But the real job got in the way of working on the Barth, and then winter came, etc. blah, blah, blah. One final question, Dan or others, where did you pick up a new radiator and how much did you pay for one? Local parts shop is quoting $750, which seems really high. ’84 Barth Regal 25 ‘ w/ “FRED” FRont End Diesel Chevy 6.2 L diesel | |||
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Glassnose Aficionado 2/09 |
I took mine to the local radiator shop and they "recored" it for a little over 4 bills with a lifetime gaurantee. 79 Barth Classic | |||
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First Month Member 11/13 |
On my gasser, I removed the radiator from the inside. the dash remained in place. I removed the air cleaner, air conditioner compressor, alternator, thermostat housing, fan clutch, fan and fan shroud. I am speaking from memory here, so there might be something else, but, basically, remove anything that looks like it interferes. I don't remember whether or not I unbolted the starter relay and moved it or not. I know zilch about diesels, so there might be something different there. Then I lay cardboard over the engine to protect the fins as the raduatir goes in and out, and tape cardboard over the radiator itself. On reinstallation, an assistant reaches in from outside in front to support some of the weight as I tilt and slide it into position. Use glue to hold the rubber cushions in position.
I have bought radiators only from US Radiator for 45 years. Their Desert Cooler has always helped me tow up the steepest hills on the hottest days. . 84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered | |||
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"5+ Years of Active Membership" |
Here's an update. Went to the garage and lloked at it with the mechanic. I have to agree that with this '82 P30 chassis, i do not see room between the rails. The only leak is at the tube coming out the front. So, the fix for now is to solder the tube while the unit is in place. The long term solution is a new radiator. Hovere, it's looking like the easiest solution might be to take out the dash (well loosen it to slide it back) and take it out over the top. When I tackle this job, I'll take pictures to share. thank you to everyone for your input. ’84 Barth Regal 25 ‘ w/ “FRED” FRont End Diesel Chevy 6.2 L diesel | |||
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