Now I have a weird one. Since I got the shore power hooked up the water heater has been on and the switch on the Control center is off. (Good thing I had filled the water!) Well that was one of the things I needed to try to get going! Self starting seems to be very dangerous. I have heard of automatic but not without turning it on. How do I turn it off?? Why would it self start. To make sure I knew for sure whats what I turned the Control Center switch on so I had a green light to see if that turned it off. No joy! Does anyone have a instruction book or sheet for the Control Center??
I have a GH6-7E So that is a 6 gallon electronic with heat exchanger. So if I'm on the road I don't have to have it lit the motor makes warm water. Just wanted to make sure you knew I knew.

Dana..I have a GH6-4E 6 gal gas w/heat exchanger on my Regal. Don't know to much about it..only had it on once last fall when I picked it up. The PO did replace the power module board on the WH because it would not start.(don't know if it also shuts it off) There is a limit switch, sail switch on this board also and a 5amp fuse have a diagram of the power board if that helps any. I'm sure there are others here that have a better idea of what may be wrong.

The WH doesn't have a sail switch; none is necessary because there is no airflow involved.

Most Barth's WH get heat from the engine, from propane, and some, electric. The control panel switch controls the propane only. Many HW heaters have an electric element, and all I've seen are controlled by a switch NOT on the control panel...and the location could be anywhere.

The propane burner should NEVER start if the control panel switch is off.

Anyway, if the HW heater switch on the control panel is on with the tank empty if the thermostat fails, there's a second fail-safe device, basically a fusible link that melts and shuts the system down before damage is done to the HW tank.

There is a similar high-temp trip for the electric element; it can be reset, but the propane fusible link has to be replaced (not a difficult job).

If your HW heater is lighting off on propane with the control panel switch off, there's a short somewhere. However, don't discard the possibility that the electric element switch is on, and is energized whenever you plug in.

110 volt, no switch plugged into the 110 outlet to the far left of the under the bed electrical panels and all the wires. Well now I know and can put a switch for it and mark it so there is no more mystery. So I still have to make sure the gas works but I need to let the water cool down.

Can I get some clarification please - I recently purchased a 1990 32' Regency and I thought the water heater switch was located above the door with a light (red) next to it. Does the water heater work from more than one source (propane and/or electric)? I believe my 8.3 Cummins does have a heat exchanger but thought the water heater mainly worked off propane. Preparing for our first road trip and would hate to deal with no hot water for the weekend our first time out! Thank you for the help
JR

I can clarify what I can. I believe if yours is like mine it runs via 12 volt and propane and that is the switch above the door. Mine also runs off a 110 plug that came on when I plugged in the shore power that is in no way controlled by the switch over the door. I could find no switch and it plugs in at the foot of the bed. I unplugged it to turn it off. Anybody else have any further clarification. Its on my list for tomorrow of things to try a figure out how to fire it with propane.

At great risk I ask - if the switch above the door is the 12 v switch, wouldn't the water heater continue to work when plugged in to shore power using that switch? Is there an advantage to using the 110 plug (if I have one- must explore) when plugged into shore power? I can see where it would help to have propane.

No risk, I am new to this multiple systems running the same thing. I have not had it so the 12 volt propane have made hot water. That's why its still on my list. Can they both run at the same time-yes. Why would you want to??? They are separate and controlled at different spots.

I'll do some exploring in the next few days and we can compare notes - Thanks!

I can only add how my water heater works and hope it helps. The water heater works on LP, 120V AC, and the engine heat exchanger. Naturally the heat exchanger works only when the engine is running and will give you hot water on the road and when you arrive at your location.

The LP control is a 12V DC switch located in the control panel over the entry door. When the switch is turned on a red indicator light just over the switch will flash red until the LP burner lights and will go out when the burner lights. When the water reach the temperature the light will turn on and glow green.

The 120V AC is operated by switch mounted on the end of the kitchen cabinets. This is a switch that also has a red light that indicates when the switch is in the on position.

You can have both the AC operation and LP operation turned on at the same for faster recovery. Also I have noticed that the LP operation on our coach supplies hotter watter than the AC operation.

I will add that on my coach I have 3 of the 120V AC switches that have red indicator lights that show when they are turned on. All three have something to do with heat. The one over the door operates a heater in the water compartment to prevent freezing. The one on the end of the cabinets operates the hot water heater. The last one mounted over the drivers seat operates an engine block heater.

Nick

Nick, Now we are getting somewhere! I was preparing to post a picture of the toggle switch and button under the drop down counter piece at the end of the cabinet to figure out what it was. One more thing I need to investigate and see if how/if it works on my coach. I also need to locate the heat exchanger switch on my dash.

Hi
There is a Hi/Low rocker switch on the consol just under the radio and next to the spotlight controls on ours. It is labeled AUX HEAT and blows warm air from the circular floor vents in the bedroom and bath areas when driving down the road.
Don

Under the folding counter section at the end of my cabinet, there is a toggle switch with a green and red light, as well as a "doorbell" looking button. Can you clarify what I am looking at? There is also a "doorbell" button above the head of the master bed next to a light switch.

Jer, That is to turn on your alarm..... The one in the bedroom is a panic button.... There are switches at every door including the entryway, all the basement storage areas, and probably the engine compartment.... There should also be a key switch outside the door so you can disarm it before entering.... The keyswitch on mine also has the red -n- green lights....

quote:

Originally posted by Nick Cagle:
The LP control is a 12V DC switch located in the control panel over the entry door. When the switch is turned on a red indicator light just over the switch will flash red until the LP burner lights and will go out when the burner lights. When the water reach the temperature the light will turn on and glow green.

Nick

Nick the explanation of how it works and reading s couplr off site posts and shazam! Successful operation. Let me run it by the numbers,
1. Nick told me how the normal process works. flashing red lights and then green. Okay I had green light as soon as I turned it on. I searched atwood gh6-7e and got a post on some other site running that senario. Check the fusible link with a continuity tester, so I did and got nothing. Try using a jumper and I got red blinking lights and then green when it lit. Hot water all 3 ways now.
2. I don't currently have any switch for the 110 volt. Mine just plugs in at the base of the bed with the battery charger. I will be putting in a switch with a pilot light labeled 110 HOT WATER, somewhere! More than likely at the foot of the bed with the rest of the wiring(how novel)!
Success is sweet! Just need to get the fusible link and that should be relatively easy!