I have had my Regency since June 25. I drove it from Texas to Florida and parked along side my home. Since then I have been refurbishing the interior and fixing any technical problems I have noticed. Since I have not really ran it much I have some questions. The motor and chassis manuals have many recommended procedures that I don't know if they are necessary or may even be automated. Can anyone help me out here:

How regularly should I drain the fuel-water separator?

Do the air tanks have an automatic drain as some motor homes do?

If not, where are the drains?

After a few weeks of not running is it necessary to disconnect the fuel injection pump solenoid power then crank the engine for a few seconds before reconnecting the pump and starting the engine?

Many sources state that the engine should be run at, or above, peak torque RPM. How do I find out what this RPM is? It's not in the manual.

Is the anti-freeze from Wal-Mart, etc. the correct type to use in the Cummins engine? I am referring to the brand names of course.

I'm sure I'll have more questions. I hope y'all can help.

go to cummins .com go to performance tips that will answer most of your questions.
lenny

Auto drain or manual, if you want to replace them go to Napa. They have a lanyard air tank drain made by Haldex for about $15 that works well, especially if your drains are hard to access by hand.

[QUOTE]Picture of Lance Walton

Posted 11-12-2009 10:47 PM
I have had my Regency since June 25. I drove it from Texas to Florida and parked along side my home. Since then I have been refurbishing the interior and fixing any technical problems I have noticed. Since I have not really ran it much I have some questions. The motor and chassis manuals have many recommended procedures that I don't know if they are necessary or may even be automated. Can anyone help me out here:

How regularly should I drain the fuel-water separator? Unless you get water in the system, do not do it.

Do the air tanks have an automatic drain as some motor homes do? Probably not. Manual valves are located on the bottom of each tank, there are three. If water is present, replace the desiccant filter/cartridge on the air drier. Before you spend a dime on the air drier, make sure it is the correct one. Many chassis were turned out with the incorrect drier. If you have a Holset E-Con compressor, make sure you have an "E-Con:" compatible drier.

If not, where are the drains? See above

After a few weeks of not running is it necessary to disconnect the fuel injection pump solenoid power then crank the engine for a few seconds before reconnecting the pump and starting the engine? No

Many sources state that the engine should be run at, or above, peak torque RPM. How do I find out what this RPM is? It's not in the manual. 1600 RPM but Spartan tended to use relatively Low Gears in their chassis which in our coach 1600 rpm is around 50-55 MPH. We travel between 65 & 75 so we are near 1900 RPM. I am considering a re-gear but our toad is 6500 lbs.

Is the anti-freeze from Wal-Mart, etc. the correct type to use in the Cummins engine? I am referring to the brand names of course.

Replace the antifreeze with a quality Ethylene/Glycol mixture of 50/50 & replace the coolant filter. Test the DCA content using a test strip available from Cummins Parts. Add as necessary. If you purchase "Cummins Compleat" coolant, it has the the proper amount of DCA included. There is a new coolant out called "Final Charge" that is completely organic and lasts six years or 650,000 miles and requires NO DCA. Complete;ly flush your system and refill with Final Charge 50/50 mixture.