Hey everyone.
I had a Dometic refridgerator given to me; it works great on 120V, but nothing on 12V.
Any and all suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks, Richard

This is a WAG, but the first thing to check would be the 12VDC heating element; IIRC, some reefer models had two elements, one for 120VAC, and the second for 12VDC.

If the 12VDC element checks out at around 2-4 ohms, it's likely OK. That makes the control board suspect.

Thanks Rusty, I'll get out the DVOM tomorrow.

Richie C-

Take this for what it is worth....

Someone told me the other day, and he sells used RV refriderators, that if you run you fridge on propane only it will live alot longer. Ron starts his fridge in the spring and lets it run until fall never shutting it off.

He says it is cheaper to buy propane than a new fridge.

I am not sure if this is true or not but I am going to try it!

I've heard that some folks never turn off their fridges, but I wasn't aware of running it on propane giving it more longevity. I should fill the propane and see if it'll work on LPG.
I was hoping there might be a blown fuse or sumpthin' simple.

Jeff and Joy, I changed the notification on my pm. Sorry about not responding sooner.

The propane thingy is only partially correct. Running the reefer on propane is most useful when it's sat idle for a while, as that tends to separate the coolant constituents. But if the reefer's running OK, electric is fine.

This might sound a little stupid, but, we were camping last week, plugged into 30 amp service, and the frig was working ok but we continued to hear this clicking. We opened the door to the back of the frig and really couldn't figure it out. Then we opened the propane valve to see if it would go away working on propane, but unit wouldn't light off on propane. Manual says frig seeks a/c first, then d/c, then propane. Question--how can you run on propane and still be plugged into shore power?

Back to you, Rusty.

If your propane valve has been closed, it usually takes quite awhile for enough propane to flow to light off the frig. Even if you fill your lines by lighting off the stove, furnace, &/or other propane appliances, it can take awhile for the frig. Furthermore, if the box is already cooled by electricity, it may be cold enough to prevent the thermostat from turning the gas on.

The vagaries of the 3-way frig. are many. They don't all work the same, brand to brand, & as technology has advanced they vary from year-to-year within a brand. It is likely you can't get a valid test without the box being fully warmed.

As a matter of habit, I always started the frig. on propane, & switched to electric as appropriate. Usually, the box cools more quickly with propane. The last frig. I had used a single element for 12v & 110v. On 12v it would hold a pre-cooled box, but wouldn't cool a warm one. Things may be different nowadays.

Thanks for the reply, Roy. I'll do some tinkering and see if I can get it working.

I don't know I put the refer on 6hours it is cold enough to do anything.gas or ac.
lenny

I live in southern Florida 93 today.leaving Thursday

Constant clicking of the ignitor indicate, usually, one of two issues:

1. Sparking but not igniting

2. Not sparking

The usual problem relating to #1., is air in the lines. The reefer has a very small orifice for the propane, so bleeding out the air can take forever. The best solution is to light a device (usually the stovetop) downstream from the reefer. This will bleed the lines, and the reefer should start on propane in two or three cycles at worst. You'll notice it may take a few minutes for the stove to light, and it consumes far more propane than a reefer, which tells you how much air was in the lines.

The "not-sparking" problem could be in the gap of the ignitor, a bad ignitor, a bad ignitor wire, or a bad control board. Usually, if you hear a "clicking", that's the spark, so the first thing to do is to bleed the lines as above.

BTW, it would be odd for a reefer not to have a "propane only" setting, as sometimes the quicker and higher heat from the propane element is needed to "get the juices flowing".

I'm just sharing this for general information.

Last night, we happened to be in town, and good friend called for advice on his fridge, which died just before a multi week trip.

Since we were in town, we went over.

It was a three way small Dometic, and we could see the gas flame and feel the electric heat and read the amp draw. That ruled out all the control elements, leaving the ammonia parts. This appeared to be the dreaded lock-up, which is often a death sentence. Being short of recent experience, I consulted with Bill and Rusty to see if I was missing anything before I told the guy that his trip was ruined.

The ammonia tubing was warm only just above the heater, and was ambient temp a few inches away. This more or less confirmed a lock-up.

While waiting for a callback, I started rapping on the ammonia tubing with a light hammer. Not hard enough to dent it, but sharp jars. Pretty soon it started to get hotter farther up. Several shared bottles of wine later, the freezer plate was cold.

I had never heard of hammer therapy on a fridge before, but it seemed logical, and there was nothing to lose. I still gave it a 5% chance only..

This guy has been a bad boy. They stay only in parks (which he believes have level pads). He is a first time RV owner, and when he DID check his leveling by laying a small level (not a bullseye) on the cup holder on his engine cover, and the coach set for months with no use. Rusty believes a fridge should not sit unused for over a month, and I would agree with that. I insisted that my friend buy a bullseye level and a set of Hoppys and get as close to perfectly level whenever he parks.

SO: Ignore the people who tell you that as long as you don't roll out of bed, the fridge is OK. Even the newer ones are fussy. His is a 2007. Get your freezer plate as level as you can.

58 this morning and 114 this afternoon.

Glad you got it going! (Bet he is, too).

Dometics are very sensitive to level. Norcolds aren't.