Having seen some things flappin' around in the wind, I'm ready to go out and buy one of those there rivet tool things. Guess I'll need to buy some of them rivets too, but Lee says that you've got to make sure that them rivets have aluminum mandrels, whatever that means. Can somebody give me directions to the local aluminum mandrel rivet store place? Let's see--how big a hole do I have to drill to get one of those there rivet aluminum mandrel things in it?

The mandrel is the little nail-like hickey on a pop rivet, that you stick in the hole of a pop rivet tool in order to install the rivet.

Pop rivets come in several sizes & lengths, and at least in steel, aluminum & stainless steel. Any hardware store will have at least 3 sizes of rivets, in various lengths, in all 3 materials. The box will tell you what drill size you need. Just be sure if you have to drill an old rivet out, that you use the right size drill,

Aluminum rivets may have steel or aluminum mandrels. IMHO the critical factors are being sure the rivet is aluminum, and getting the right size & length. Too long & the rivet won't pull down tight, too short, it won't set. & you'll have to drill it out again.

This ain't rocket science, so I'm not sure how critical it is to use rivets with aluminum mandrels. Your rivets are probably failing from galvanic corrosion between the aluminum rivet & the steel structure the flapping aluminum skin is fastened to. That will happen again, long after you've disposed of the rig, & long before such corrosion will occur between the rivet and the remaining nub of a steel mandrel.

Any pop rivet tool better than Dollar Store grade will come with 3 fittings to handle 3 different size mandrels.

When all else fails when using the rivets or the tool, read the directions.

....I think I'm being tweaked a little here, but I've got big shoulders, so here goes:

1. A PhD. in Pop-Rivetology can be obtained at:
http://www.emhart.com/products/pop/Default.htm

2. Home Depot/Lowes/any self-respecting hardware store carries the riveter & supplies - usually next to the staplers.

3. Less than 20 bucks should get you a consumer-grade tool with a sample kit of various size pop rivets and instructions in 6 languages.....I'd suggest you look around the house and POP away until you feel like you're qualified to pop rivet on THE machine....(mistakes are simply drilled-out and another rivet inserted)

4. For non-blind applications (not tellin' ya - ya gotta read the instructions - six languages!)...I recommend washers on both ends - really makes a difference in tensile strength....

5. If you're attaching aluminum to steel, and can get a thin nylon flat washer between them, you'll probably eliminate enough galvanic reaction that the joint will last your lifetime......

6. A pop rivet that has been set will have a center that is non-waterproof...In wet environments or flat applications subject to rain, a teensy-weensy dab of any good sealer will help.....

ENOUGH!....I could talk pop-rivets every waking moment of my life....It's time for my therapy anyway.........Good luck!

Now, you read these 2 posts & you see the difference between a shade-tree mechanic who learned mostly by trial -and-error, & one who went to school.

"Never, ever, let studies and school interfere with your education...."
-Henry Ford,1926

rivets on a barth have a mandral that push in not out makes them water tight.let me know if you want # to get carl

I'd like it Carl!

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89 Barth Regal 32
Runs like a Deere
New Hampshire

I sure would like the number as well. Would the local hardware, Home Depot etc still be the source?

Carl, I'd appreciate the info. too.

Me four Carl.

Also wanted to thank you for stopping by after I got my Barth to take a look at it. I know you saw it first hand when I just ripped the walls out of it.

If your in the area stop by or give me a call. Would love to hear from you again. I think you will be surprised at how far it has come.

Thanks


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http://www.truckroadservice.com/

[This message has been edited by Bill (edited August 23, 2005).]

Carl,

Count me in as the fifth.

Dennis

barth used (2) sized 5/16 wall. 3/8 trim head size .38-106-02-16 head is .375 or 3 /8. grip range is .o47 to .141 .38-105-02-13 grip range is.o47 to .o78 .you can change the grip range by changing the # 02 03 04 05 .call 1-800-634-4293 catalog m-100 page P-4 aluminum drive rivets use hammer to set pin flush with rivet p.s grip is total thickness of sheets. but you have a range .this rivet will look just like the ones you have know yours carl

Is there any problem using stainless rivets?
Or is it better to stick with aluminum.

I think we need to keep in mind that stainless steel, even when its been passivated, is a "corrosion-resistant" material...it is not "corrosion-proof".

Stainless in contact with aluminum and in the presence of moisture will set up a galvanic reaction - the basic laws of thermodynamics so state. In this example, the aluminum will take the hit, to the benefit of the stainless.....

Having said that, we also need to temper it with a dose of reality......If one set of circumstances and metals will serve its purpose for 20 years, and another set will last 100 years plus, I'd be inclined to go with whatever is easily available, on-hand, least expensive or more convenient.

SUMMARY: Aluminum-to-aluminum contact will ALWAYS trump aluminum-to-some-other-metal for longevity...But that doesn't make alternative approaches incorrect. My body and my Barth are roughly scheduled to wear out at about the same time, and I doubt if using stainless steel rivets would be much of a factor one way or the other.....

So, as a product of the '60's generation, I'd be inclined to say: If it feels good, go with it!

Thanks Lee. I guess I'll stick with aluminum
I noticed the strength of the stainless was much greater. That's what prompted the thought. Lloyd