quote:

Originally posted by carl buckstad:
barth used (2) sized 5/16 wall. 3/8 trim head size .38-106-02-16 head is .375 or 3 /8. grip range is .o47 to .141 .38-105-02-13 grip range is.o47 to .o78 .you can change the grip range by changing the # 02 03 04 05 .call 1-800-634-4293 catalog m-100 page P-4 aluminum drive rivets use hammer to set pin flush with rivet p.s grip is total thickness of sheets. but you have a range .this rivet will look just like the ones you have know yours carl

So, I've never drilled or popped a rivet. I will be soon, as my Barth has quite a few missing rivets. I did a search on the forum, and the post quoted above seems like the holy grail of all posts, but WTF does it mean? Can anyone 'splain to a simpleton what it says?

Quinn

⅛" and 3/16" diameter, with a ¼" grip range will do for most applications. It's useful to have 3/16" with a 3/8-1/2" grip range.

I'm getting less confused, sorta. I read and read here and youtubed etc. I'll put down what I found here just so it's there for the next schmo.

- Closed end pop rivets - looks like the way to go, as they won't let water in through the center:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_sc35qFs38

as opposed to open end, which can let water through:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRnPXDwKeNw

Then there are Olympic Rivets, which also look cool since they have a big spread on the backside and can be shaved so they look solid. What a lot of work though! And none of the rivets on my rig look like that. They all have holes in the center. I'm also afraid with all that spreading out, there may not be enough room on the backside.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDwM3D0waLg

- Looks like Barth used 1/8" and 3/16" rivets. UNLESS they used 1/4" then you need a 1/4" gun, because there doesn't seem to be a gun that does all three.

Then there are CLECOS, which I finally figured out. They hold pieces together temporarily while you work on them. I'll need some for work on the front end under the windshield because there's a big (nay, huge, maybe 1/2") gap where the rivets have popped. If someone wants to tell me that's not normal, please do, 'cause I'm planning on just riveting it back.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hYpEfo_OSKI

I'm still not sure how you know what "grip range" you need when you can't see the back-side. Is it trial and error? I'm going to be riveting mostly body aluminum, which I assume is attached to the frame. Is it safe to use 1/4"?

Gosh, and then there are these, which are closed end AND have a little rubber gasket built in!! Only $2 each (yikes).
http://www.sailrite.com/Leak-R...SnapRite-Surface-Die

I guess I just have to get started.

I have good luck with rivets from these guys:
http://www.hansonrivet.com

They have a web site that will explain almost everything there is to know about riveting. Most of my work was with 3/16" and about .390" depth. I was mounting a new rear ladder and an adapter plate so it was about 1/16" thicker than the original mounts. I have used the same rivets to replace body panel lost original ones.
I bought a rivet installer from Hanson also and am really glad I got the heavy duty one. My old Sears installer would not be strong enough to do this job, I think. The Hanson reps will advise you which installer will work for your job.

I forgot to mention that I used a size 11 number drill to correctly clean out the old rivets and ream the metal. I think you should not try to use any other than the recommended drill size for rivet holes. I could not find any number drills at my local big box stores but a small tool supply had a complete assortment from 0 - 80. I suggest buying more than one since Murphy is always around the corner!!

quote:

I'd be inclined to go with whatever is easily available, on-hand, least expensive or more convenient.

I'd be inclined to go with whatever is easily available, on-hand, least expensive or more convenient.

Unfortunately, I'm easily distracted by hard-to-find, rare, and ridiculously expensive. Whiz-bangedness helps too!

This should be obvious, I bought a Barth after all.

Consider "Cherry Max" rivets used in conjunction with Clecos. For structural applications,(such as holding a ladder on), they are the best. Purchase some American made numered,(such as #11), drill bits,(many on-line sources). You will pay more for them, but the quality and longevity of the bits will be worth the added expense. You can use "Aircraft Spruce and Speciality" as a source for the Clecos and Cherry Max rivets. There is an art to taking out broken rivets,(if drilling them out), so study-up on that before jumping-in. With missing rivets often times, you will find that the hole has been distorted, so a larger diameter rivet is in order.