quote:

Originally posted by John C.:

3. for the back start off with the Hellwig adj springs, then the airbags if that don't work.

You will probably like the Hellwig by themselves. The only reason I use bags in addition is that they are quicker to adjust for varying loads like water, tongue weight, motorcycle, lighter genset, etc. And, I'm a bit of a nut on fiddling things.

Are you looking at the LP-25 or 35? I started out with an LP-25 on a truck, and converted it to an LP-35 by adding an extra leaf when I put it on my Barth. It is possible that your lighter coach might be OK with a 25. If the 25 is insufficient, you can buy the extra leaf and longer bolts. They are very good about parts.

Bill,

I have not looked into that close to decide which one to go with, would you recommend starting with the LP-25?

thx
John

I wonder if there is a way that John could replace the two bolts under the shower w/o taking the shower out? Is there somebody out there that might have done this?
Jim

quote:

Originally posted by Jim and Tere:
I wonder if there is a way that John could replace the two bolts under the shower w/o taking the shower out? Is there somebody out there that might have done this?
Jim

A picture is worth a thousand words.

Without seeing it, I would think towards a horizontal bar going from one metal member to another and the tank mounted to it.

Alwo, there is nothing that says the tank has to hang from vertical rods or bars. Perhaps slanted rods would be a possibility.

quote:

Originally posted by John C.:
Bill,

I have not looked into that close to decide which one to go with, would you recommend starting with the LP-25?

thx
John

Without lying underneath yours, I can't judge how bad your sag is, so a concrete recommendation is difficult.

However, some numbers would help. Like your rear axle weight, the rear bump stop clearance, the tilt of your frame rails when the front ride height is correct, etc.

In the matter of economics, there are two ways to go.

1. Buy the LP 25 and see how it does.

2. Buy the LP 35 and see how it does.

Advantage of option one is you save some money if that is all you need.

Disadvantages of option one are the added expense and labor if you have to buy another leaf to convert it to an LP 35.

Advantage of option two is you have everything there and can do it all in one afternoon.

Disadvantage of option two is you might have bought an extra leaf you don't need. Perhaps if you talk to them they might allow you to order an LP 35 with the privilege of returning the unneeded leaf for credit.

Both options have the disadvantage of extra labor if you guess wrong the first time.

My own WAG is that the 25 would be enough for your shorter and lighter coach. I would recommend talking to the folks at Hellwig.

BTW, a heavier front anti sway bar, either Hellwig or Roadmaster is highly recommended. I would not own a P30 without one.

It sounds like you are doing everything right, so go ahead and start saving up for the Henderson arms, too.

BTW, how did the bolt break? I don't want to be a Monday-morning quarterback, but perhaps we could learn something from your misfortune.

Had shot some Kroil Penetrating oil on all four bolts in the morning and again an hour or so later.

Three came loose rite away, but then the heads starting turning also so it's more than just the one broken one. The fourth one snapped rite away, was just using a small box wrench so it wasn't like I had a 2' breaker bar on it.

Wife is kinda excited about remodel anyway, so think that's the direction where heading.

Think in the long run it will be cheaper and easier than trying to redo each system one at a time. And we will have a coach designed to fit our wants and needs.

Getting it weighed this afternoon. will report back

John

quote:

Originally posted by John C.:
Had shot some Kroil Penetrating oil on all four bolts in the morning and again an hour or so later.

Golly, that's decent stuff. My preference is PB Blaster, but my observations are not scientific, as no two rust situations are the same. Ed and the guys on Mythbusters like Kroil a lot.

quote:

Three came loose rite away, but then the heads starting turning also so it's more than just the one broken one. The fourth one snapped rite away, was just using a small box wrench so it wasn't like I had a 2' breaker bar on it.

John

That's bad luck.

I wonder if holding the rod with a Vise Grip would have done any good. On doubtful situations, I try to use a cutting wheel on a die grinder and almost split the nut on opposite sides, using a screwdriver to split it. Then I run a die over the threads before reassembly. Sometimes, with threaded rod, I will shorten the rod and use a coupling nut to install new rod and reassemble with brass nuts. This is all Big Talk, of course, and works only if there is good access. If access is restricted, and there is no fire danger, I will heat the nut red hot with a welding torch or a Mapp torch.

BTW, speaking of die grinders, Harbor Freight has a good sale right now on their 90 degree one.

Ok,

Got back from the scale.

1/2 tank of fuel in each tank, no water, no waste, no gear, and no food. Just me and the coach.

Front = 4760lbs
Rear = 5160lbs

Higher than I hoped, guess the 454 weighs a little.

also no generator in the back, it is out for maint. I guess with that weight behind the rear wheels it would reduce the weight on the front, but by a very little I imagine.

Going to call henderson now and see what they say.

I wonder how many of these are running around well over GVW in the front?
my max front is 4880lbs, so even with just my wife up front we are over max.

Here's a little trick I figured out with my wheel covers. When I started backing out the bolts they would start out fine but bind up tight after a turn or 2. When this happens, crank back down a turn, until it feels loose again, then back it out till it binds, crank in, back out, until it comes out. Much easier than breaking it off and having to EZ out or drill and tap a new hole.

good tip, There was a build up of junk on the threads, I took a wire brush to them to get rid of some of that. The one that broke never moved on the bolt, just snap. When I started to take it apart I was thinking that I when I put it back in I would use new bolts, now I have no choice.

John

Danny's tip is also good for avoiding tap breakage.