Last year when I replaced my crankshaft I spent around $100 for the "best" gaskets, the Fel-Pro "no-retorque" gaskets.

Maybe that applies to the head gaskets (I hope!) but does not seem true for the oil pan.

I was changing the oil today and I noticed several oil pan bolts were leaking slightly (again). For the third time in a year, they were finger tight and needed to be snugged up.

I don't overtorque since the gasket is soft and will crush if pinched by the bolts, just a few inch pounds needed. Yet the gasket seems to still be compressing, they end up loose again.

I'm not impressed. I've never had this problem before. (I have gone back ONCE to retighten on occasion)

Considering there aren't that many gaskets on a 454 I think they were overpriced and not very good. Any one else had problems with replacement gaskets?

For gaskets like that, it's very important to torque all to the same setting. I would guess that something in the 15-20 lb. ft. range would be right. The use of Loktite blue might be advisable.

GM calls for 70 inch-pounds on the pan to cover bolts and 135 inch-pounds on the pan to block bolts, ie about 6 ft lb and about 11 ft lb.

This is not very tight, easy to pinch gaskets with more. Mine could be turned with fingers after they got loose. They have star type lock washers which should hold but the gasket keeps shrinking.

I could try Loktite but I may need to tighten them again and break loose the Loktite. Oh well..

new engines do use cut gaskets. many use Permatex Ultra Grey Gasket. I has to be the Grey, not Blue or Red. Permatex web site describes their product. works for us.

meant to say do not use cut gaskets!

I use Loktite blue occasionally as an anti-seize agent. It holds well under light torque, and is easy to break loose.

quote:

Originally posted by Tom and Julie:
new engines do use cut gaskets. many use Permatex Ultra Grey Gasket. I has to be the Grey, not Blue or Red. Permatex web site describes their product. works for us.

Instructions: "Finger tighten until material begins to squeeze out around flange. Allow to dry for one hour then retighten 1/4 to 1/2 turn."

No distinction is made for the differing crush with different pitch threads. No distinction is made for no lock washers, star (internal, external, or both) lock washers, split lock washers, wave lock washers, or flange bolts with teeth under the flange.

All of that makes me a little nervous about bolts loosening. I think if I used their product and directions, I would use the proper Loctite for the engagement ratio and diameter.

Or a gob of 3M Yellow Peril on each head.