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1/18 |
My one lower storage door frame is pulled out and leaks water into the storage area. Looks easy enough to drill out the rivets and reinstall. What should I use behind? I'm assuming butyl tape rather than a caulk. Any other tips? I'm guessing that a couple of the rivets completely pulled out as even though someone "fixed it with caulk" I can't find a rivet behind it so those I hope to just use a larger rivet but worst case will add some more rivet holes up there. | ||
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When I pulled out and re-installed the hot water tank assembly, I used plumbers putty around the edge. It seemed that is what had been there previously.The old came away easy and seems to be leakproof so far...and it rains alot up here. 1991 Regal 28' 454 Banks Power Pak | ||||
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8/19 |
I have had every basement door off of my Barth on the passenger side. I replaced a few of the "J" frames and riveted the skin and door frames back on. I used the stuff from the city where your Barth was built. Class A Customs is in Elkhart Indiana. Here is where I bought the original sealer. I used it since it was still pliable after 25 years. No runs, no drips no errors. They ship fast also. | |||
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8/19 |
Pictures of no doors or lower skin is here. | |||
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Official Barth Junkie |
I told you Kevin was crazy. THAT is what you call an ambitious project! Now that 86Barth is parked inside I may be able to get to my basement doors and floors, too. Keep up the good work Kevin. 9708-M0037-37MM-01 "98" Monarch 37 Spartan MM, 6 spd Allison Cummins 8.3 325+ hp | |||
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1/18 |
Sweet, already have some tape for when I replaced a couple lights. Got the rivets all drilled out and working on cleaning it up. I had what look like stainless and aluminum rivets. I'm assuming it would have been aluminum from factory right? Pulled the rug up and do have some rust cleaning up to do (just surface). I'm thinking of putting truck bedliner on it and nixing the carpet. Thoughts? I already cleaned up the battery box area and used stone chip in there since it isn't really used for storage and I had some sitting around. | |||
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2/19 |
Last winter I had to repair the "hinge" on the large door for the main basement storage compartment while boondocking near Sedona. I'm curious about the hinge arrangement in various models of Barth. Kevin mentions a "j frame", my 95 Monarch has a continuous aluminum extrusion that acts as the upper half of the hinge. Each door has the mating extrusion attached to the upper edge. In my case the coach extrusion was coming loose near the coach entry door. I tried popping it back into place temporarily while we were at Grand Canyon but by the time we got to Sedona it was working loose again. I ended up cutting the channel directly above the compartment, drilling out the rivets that were still holding and re-riveting it back in place. The only thing I had on hand to use as sealer was Goop but it seems to be working. The compartment hinge is one of the few things I don't love about the coach. | |||
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1/18 |
All together minus one rivot as from factory it wasn't riveted as there isn't a hole (the rivot was just on the door not into the body of the home) My drill battery died so once that is charged I'll drill a hole for it. Missed seeing that when i took it off. Everything is nice and tight (just have some non black rivets now. Last question is there was a stick on j channel across the top. to keep the water out of the hinge I guess. I don't have the J on any of the other doors. Should I? If so anybody got a good source for it in black? | |||
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8/19 |
The factory used closed end Aluminum Rivets. The rivets should also have aluminum mandrels. I like the truck bed liner IDEA! I used POR 15 on my battery box four years ago and it needed attention again. This time I tried phosphoric acid. The results will be due for the next election (2020). | |||
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8/19 |
I do not have J channels either Bob. I think the inside rubber seal should keep the water out of the cabinet. I have never seen a Barth with J channel over the doors. It might be a nice addition to the hinge though. | |||
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