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We have a 1973 25' Barth on a P-30 Chassis which we have been working on and off for 2 years with a lot of help from this website. Thanks. We expect to drive it shortly and are short about a dozen lugnuts. They were over torqued and stripped when I removed them, I have looked in all the usual places for replacements. (NAPA, Rock Auto, Dealer etc.) with no luck. Does any on e know where I can Buy these? They are 9/16-18 flange type lugnuts. Thanks again, Jim | |||
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2/16 Captain Doom |
By "flanged", do you mean the mating surface is flat, and the nut has what looks like a "built-in" washer? If so, try a custom tire and wheel store, because many alloy wheels use a flat mating surface. NAPA shows these tapered lug nuts; note there are different threads for front and back. An alternative is to replace the studs and nuts as sets... Rusty "StaRV II" '94 28' Breakaway: MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP Nelson and Chester, not-spoiled Golden Retrievers Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think we're not. In either case the idea is quite staggering. - Arthur C. Clarke It was a woman who drove me to drink, and I've been searching thirty years to find her and thank her - W. C. Fields | |||
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Yes, They have a built in washer which helps distribute the load. The wheels are not countersunk for a tapered type (NAPA) nut so replacing the stud will not work...In order to use my existing wheels, I would like to find the OE flange type nut. 9/16-18 thread My other alternative is to use a bolting ring and NAPA type nuts from a 89-90 GMC one ton. Has anyone had a similar problem with an early 70's Barth. How did you handle it? Thanks, Jim | ||||
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She who must be obeyed and me, Ensign 3rd crass "5+ Years of Active Membership" |
Hi: When I bid my split rim wheels on my 1973 Barth 25 a big aloha I used the bolting ring and tapered seat type nuts from a 89-90 GMC one ton on the new wheels. This is working very well. The junk yard I got the new wheels from had a shoot load of the rings on a shelf; without prompting he included them with the wheels and gave me the lug nuts for free as well. I paid $40.00 each for the wheels. New lug nuts are costly, I checked before going to the junk yard. I put the lug nuts in a bath to get rid of the rust and repainted them along with the rings and the wheels, looking back this was a waste of time; I put chrome covers on the wheels for $150.00 and you can't see the lug nuts. I could have just painted the wheels and that would have been fine. The new wheels lug nut holes are identical to the old split rims, it is just a hole in the wheel for the lug nuts. The rings as I said work well. Timothy | |||
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3/11 |
When I last replaced my tires I used Wingfoot Goodyear, a commerical truck center. They have a location near you (12 miles, WAUKESHA, WI #139 Phone. 262-650-9884). They insisted on replacing all lug nuts when they mounted new tires and they had thousands of them. They also check the lugs for crossthreads, broken threads etc and replaced some of those that I didn't even notice. I would suggest calling them and then getting some nuts and getting to their place and have them go over all the tires and wheels. It will save lots of grief when the unchecked failure occurs. Tom 1993 32' Regency Wide Body, 4 speed Allison Trans, Front Entry door, Diamond Plate aluminum roof & 1981 Euro 22' w Chevy 350 engine and TH 400 tranny | |||
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Thanks for the help. Sounds like a trip to Wingfoot - 1st for nuts and then later to have them check out the studs. If that doesn't pan out I'll try the bolting ring approach. My rims are apparently not original, because they are one piece not split. Thanks again for the help, Jim | ||||
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