My 1991 Regal 454 is now legal and on the road and I have issues that I could use help with resolving, based on forum members experience.

I mentioned before that the left front wheel can rub the chassis on larger dips or when the coach is manuvering over off-camber surfaces. The l/f A-frame doesn't have a rubber bumper, r/f does. Is the spring gone? Air bag holds ~50psi, too hi/low?

Brake pedal travel seems like a lot, a couple of inches. Is this normal for the vintage? I installed new M/C, calipers, hoses, pads, turned rotors. It passed inspection and stops just fine. I've bleed it a couple of times, no air. The travel just seems long. Comments?

Engine is a 454, I gave it tune up and it runs fine. It has a Banks Power Pak installed. I don't know if this is normal for the year but it has what I'll call TBI fuel delivery. A big ass two barrel with a plastic injector over each throat. Plus there is some kind of black metal riser/spacer under the carb that has cooling lines in/out of it. I don't know what that is. Fuel spray seems even and constant. But...the check engine light comes on after running for a bit. This happened when I first brought the coach home. Is there a diagnostic plug-in somewhere? Any suggestions on where to start diagnosing this issue? Fixing will probably increase fuel milage I'm guessing so I'd like to get this one.

I put two 6 volt golf cart batteries in it for house supply. Once hooked up and with the AC plugged into the my house, the DC ampmeter by the drivers seat reads -6.5 ish, even though there is anything turned on(that I can see). To me, from my work standards, negative means energy going into the source, positive would be out. So does this mean the inverters are charging the batteries? I just realized that I never put a DC load on then checked the gauge, I will tommorrow. But do the converters charge the batteries when on AC supply? I meant to take photos of the converters and post, can do that later if needed.

The Zip Dee patio awning is buggered. The spring doesn't work, I seem to recall years ago my brother mentioning he broke it. I tried to tighten it as per Zip Dee instructions but I didn't feel any tension and my wife couldn't see the shaft rotating at the forward end. Is it one long shaft or is there an end cap that needs reattaching to the shaft so the spring will tension up? I'll call ZD in the morning also. I'm thinking the whole thing needs to be pulled off the coach and disassembled. Darn it.

I have lots of wiring issues ahead. The dash area is a rats nest of new, old, connected, hanging free and from when the tire blew there is a large bundle sitting on the engine that need tracing. Plus r/r air bag or line leaks, and the Air Lift compressor system isn't close to working.

Woe is me.

On the plus side, everyone who rides in it, loves it. The inspecting mechanic and the tire guys said people were commenting on the coach all day. I know I have a diamond in the rough, just have to throw lots of time and some money at it. I love a classic. Can hardly wait to go camping.

Cheers,
Cam

Ps: How do the windows/screens come out for cleaning and maintanence? I can't figure it out.

Our Zip Dee had no spring tension when I bought our coach. Found the end casting that hold the spring had broken a tab. Both ends ere the same casting. Swapped ends and rewound spring per Zip Dee directions.

Did have to remove awning. I separated at the cover to cloth. A little heavy but not to bad to handle.

Do a search under Steve VW posts. His FI upgrade is the same system you have. He interfaced his lap top to it for diag. info.

First the Zee Dee awning. The spring does not go all the way thu. If you have no tension remove the rear cap and the spring should come out. If it is broken you will have to get a new one (maybe weld the old one).

On the screens you need to remove either the top or bottom track (been a while). then move the screen back and it will come out.

In my world a -6.5 says that the batteries are supplying the amps. But Being a meter it depends on how it was wired.

My G30 Class C has a much better brake peddle feel than our P3x Regal. Like you it has a lot of pedal travel. It has good brakes, just feels like a soft pedal. This is even after new MC,hoses, lines , and new fluid. I just have accepted it. I have read other comments on soft brake pedal on 4 wheel disk chassis.

Normally your coach charging should have no connection to your chassis gauges or battery with the ignition off. This does not mean that it wired that way.

Both side of my xmember has bump stop rubbers. you may want to check and replace yours. I run between 50-70 LB in my front air bags. If pulling trailer with 500 LB hitch weight I lower them to 50 lb. I have run them as high as 85 lb. I use front ride height as a guide. I could use 5200 lb spring change, but air bag are working for now.

quote:

I use front ride height as a guide

Does this change your headlight aiming for night driving?

Great info and feedback, thanks. I'm away at work but have a few things to check now.

It sounds like you have the early TBI system. This is normally run by a computer that has OBD1 (On Board Diagnostics 1) The error codes and data can be read through the ALDL connector (Assembly Line Diagnostic Language) If you short 2 of the pins you will get error codes flashing the "Check Engine" light. You can use a cut off paper clip. A simple hand held code reader can get you started, too. For much more info you can get a data cable and stream real time data to a laptop.

Search the web for ALDL and OBD1 you can find a list of codes. There are several diagnostics applications available. I am using a freeware version called WinALDL.

Unfortunately I have found no applications which will run on a Mac, I had to cobble up an old PC.

Good luck with your coach. You may find some of my threads helpful here on this site.

https://www.barthmobile.com/eve...243949977#3243949977