Ok, lets see if I can upload pics right.

I am having a few issues with the Rims on my 1977 21 foot Barth. It is a Chevy 1 ton chassis.

The 16" rims it currently has come with the oval bolt on valve stems and I had issues in the past of shops not able to do work on them. So i am looking to change to normal press in valve stems.



Above is what I have as stock, The holes around the studs are tight to the studs, as is the center hole to the Hub.



The rim above, I only have one of, The holes around the studs seem normal and tight. Yet the center hole around the hub seems loose and larger then it should be by about 1/8"



The above rim is the one I hope will work. I just picked up 4 of them from the wrecking yard. What worries me is the holes that go over the studs are a little bigger on these, by about a mm. but the center hole seems nice and tight to the hub and still holds the rim centered. Below is a closer view of the loose stud rims.



Are these rims Ok to use on my barth ?

Yes, i do have the backing plates for the lug nuts to press into, just didn't have them on for the Pic.

I believe if the center hole is tight/centered the wheel should be usable, if the lug plates are tight and torqued to spec.

Any part #'s on either rim style? It would be good to verify the replacements are rated for the heavy RV loading.

IMHO lug nuts with a taper and wheels with a counter sunk hole will align the wheel and not depend on the hub. but then again I dunno.

I would ask a truck tire store what is acceptable as far as tolerances. Maybe they are OK, but I would worry that they would shuck back and forth on acceleration and braking. Why not have the oval holes welded and drill new holes for press in valve stems on your old wheels? The tire stores would be none the wiser and as far as I'm concerned it would do nothing to hurt the integrity of the wheels.

There are two types of wheel: Hub-piloted and Stud-piloted. 16" wheels are usually hub-piloted, meaning the studs/lugnuts are just used to secure the wheel, not to center it. But as Corey mentioned, check on it.

I have a similar issue with the valve stems for my '83, P30 Chassis. Does anyone know how to specify and look for the valve stems? Guy at my tire store does not know of a part number and just tells me the stem has an oval shape.

Are new rims the only answer?

Try here.

The rims with slotted valve stem holes were originally intended for tube-type tires. Those TR501 oval bolt-in valve stems will take care of your problem for tubeless tires. This is what I am running on mine. Just get some extra stems to keep on hand, because not many tire stores keep them in stock (they are selling mostly tires for cars anyway). As for the loose vs. tight center hole, GM changed from hub-centric to bolt hole-centric wheels some time in the '80's. The hub-centric wheels have slightly larger lug bolt (clearance) holes and the bolt hole-centric wheels have tighter lug bolt holes with a larger hub clearance hole. Either will work, but if you use the bolt hole-centric wheel, make sure that the lug bolt hole diameters are tight to the lugs and not wallowed out at all. This is asking for vibration trouble.