Thanks, I did a little more digging and the wheel cylinders and pads were all replace 11k ago and 3 years ago so I'm leaving 'em alone hopefully for our summer trip. I must say it starts and idles so much nicer with the new plugs, ditching the K&N for a paper filter and replacing the fuel filter. Saturday I move it away from the house so I can jack it up a bit to get at the tranny fluid and filter (sure hoping the pan has a plug in it but guessing that was too much to ask the bean counters at gm) and of course the rear dif. Any other grease points aside from the ujoints?

There are several on the front end. Behind each wheel there are fittings for ball joints and tie rod ends. Two more on each A arm top and bottom. Tie rod inner ends, drag link bushings. Also a couple on the link from the steering box. About 20 in all! Make sure you have a full grease gun!

Good luck on the trans pan. My least favorite job. Be sure to install a plug.

You might want to get a Mag-Hytec pan - excellent cooling, more capacity, and a drain plug.

Didn't replace the pan as I was hopeful that when I got it out and was able to get under it that when it was rebuilt they might have put a new pan on. No luck though. All went well but did go get a new rear cover for the dif as the original one was a bit rusty along the gasket surface. It is a little smaller (doesn't stick out as far) but fit fine Lost a little in capacity but it was nasty in there. Tranny fluind wasn't that bad but needed to be done. Shifted great though afterwards. It always had a 1st gear "hold" for that first shift when cold. That was gone for my test drive. Even managed to fix the leaky jack so the only thing I know that is leaking is the rear main now. Didn't get around to the greasing, will wait til just before our first outting for that. Couldn't find any grease points on the universal joints though, everything else had that "over greased look to 'em.